Conor

See if you can get a linear waste from the same manufacturer that has an outlet on the end.

Our 1100mm shelves are sagging. Fully loaded with booze. My solution was to start drinking more of it. Still sagging. I'm a lightweight.

@Tom no, amvic. But same principle. Yes, house was soaking until we'd finished all the rendering etc. Water will get in through the gaps in the Eps, down through the wall plate etc. Our basement has a couple inches of water in it until we finished off all the sills and reveal details.

All of our internorm windows and doors were fitted into the EPS reveal formers and on compact foam blocks. Not a single issue. Definitely crap installation. Have you rendered yet and put sills in? That got rid of any little leaky bits we had.

How many squads of brickies will you have on site at the one time? Might be worth getting a tub of ready-mix each day. Otherwise, worth having at least a small one anyway. My £200 mini belle is still going strong nearly 10 years on, despite a gearbox oil leak.

You wont need one.

Pretty much what we had to do. Make sure the bend is an access bend and you can get at it in the event of a blockage. (Technically you could rod from the toilet pan but best play safe and keep BCO happy). Would you be able to fit a long radius bend?

I worked on various projects over the years involving mains replacement, new meter connections. I'm 99% sure there will be a 25mm MDPE tail coming off that meter box and connect to your private supply within about 500-1000mm of the box.

We've found that before with the odd trade. Some people just can't leave a job partially done. In our last house the joiner did all the skirting for free as couldn't bare the thought of me doing it myself 🤣

Don't worry about stones in the concrete, good bit and steady drilling is all you need. Put in concrete screws every 400mm. Something like stixall, CT1, basically any of the hybrid sealant-adhesives.

@Drellingore I think you are correct, you'll be assuming all three roles. The principle designer is usually pretty clear on large projects where you have a dedicated design team, for a spec build it's always a bit murky as you've an architect, SE, and maybe designers under supply and fit subcontracts. I think it's your role to oversee all of these designer entities as the principle designer.

I've only done the one roof so not an expert. Topcoat should do the trick, it's much more than a paint. If it doesn't, it would mean another layer of fibreglass.

Your fibreglass isn't rolled down enough into the resin and / or you've not enough on- it should look transparent, not white / milky. Put a generous topcoat on. Two layers.

100mm/150mm concrete would be your final layer. So set the top of this later at the current height of your floor slab and work down. As you'll be flooring directly on tjis, it needs to be properly mechanically floated and finished well to ensure a very smooth and level surface for tiling etc. Make sure the people doing this job know this. PIR is fine under concrete, with proper DPM etc in place. Wishing you the best, the mess will be colossal for a few days, but totally worth it.

We used 150mm concrete planks. Off the back of a haib lorry and on to the walls in about an hour. Can't beat it. Build up... Realistically you need a 150mm suspended ceiling for your services. This is the full depth to underside of the plasterboard, leaves you with about 100mm of service void. We put in 50mm accoustic roll but the planks themselves with suspended ceiling and standard PB met the BC sound requirements. On top, you are talking about a 100mm build up to the finished floor, 50mm insualtion, 50mm liquid screed. There are other options. But all in you are talking a ceiling to floor depth of 350-400mm. Same would apply to block and beam, but the process is slower. Posi joists would be 300mm all in 51mm ventilation ducts sound like a nightmare, you'll need 2-3x more than standard 80mm ducts or even the skinny 63mm ones (therefore plenums with 2-4 sockets and bigger manifolds.) If this is a new (block) build, why not put an extra course in at floor above?

1. Doesn't dry out as long as there is gas in the can. 2. You can take a can off and swap it with another. You just need to give the base of the gun and the top of the can a spray with some cleaner.

@Mr Punter is right. Foam gun cleaner is a con. Leave the foam can on until it's done. Clean the nozzle with a Stanley knife before you use it. If you take a can off, clean it with cleaner, but don't get it all, the foam will harden and you'll have to bin you gun. A can left on a gun will supposedly last two years.

Are you looking for a full design and is tall package, DIY, or mix n match? Probably full design, supply and install for a direct comparison? Your house will have a very low head load, you'd be looking at a 5 kW heatpump at the most, maybe a 210 or 300l cylinder, depending on how many live in the house. DIY, £5k, purchase and get a plumber / spark to install, £6-7k. If you go to an MCS installer for a full package, expect £10k. MVHR similar story, but prices of units vary a lot so could be anywhere from £3k to £5k depending on unit and who installs it.

Just checked the wording on my local planning site, and says 2.5m eaves height, does not mention ridge height. So some flexibility in interpretation maybe? Or they just don't want to bother processing such a case 🤣

Easily. Never accept the first quote. We got ours down by a nearly a third. It was all completely honest, we told them we just couldnt afford thier prices, then they dropped like a stone.

We recessed it, but only possible because we put on an extra 100mm insualtion, meaning we had 175mm to play with. Undoubtedly a cold bridge to some extent, but pretty much the only one in the build so don't care. Cable ducts chase through the EPS then foamed over. Install crew had no issues. Other option the architect suggested was to locally build a block cavity return wall coming off the house that could take the box. Would return at 90⁰ within 2m of the principle elevation, cables would then run through the cavit and a duct through the icf wall to the consumer unit. Other option I considered was building out the icf wall by another 100mm an area a bit wider than the box, so I could form a void for the box but still retain most insualtion. Ditched that as it would look obstrusive and I'd have an awkward flashing detail to do. Internal meter wasn't an option with our DNO.

Not windows, but we just got frameless glass ballustrading from Lithuania. Half the price, exceeds the BC requirements and the quality seems fantastic. I'd definitely consider importing widows. At least then I'd know they had been measured correctly and will fit without needing handfuls of packers and cans of foam 🤣

No lintel over the window. Was probably originally hardwood timber, somebody ripped it out and put PVC in, some movement, might be something to do with it. More context needed tho, dozens of possibilities.

General rule of thumb in the civils world is fitting every 5x pipe diameter, i.e. max every 550mm (on average.) Can be less over sort runs.

Are we talking SDS here? If you're talking standard masonry bits for a hammer drill, then you're using the wrong tool. I mostly used errbauer as they are cheap and I kept breaking tips on rebar, regardless of the brand, so went cheap. However, I had to drill a load of holes recently for resin anchors and realised they have terrible dust extraction. DeWalt much better and last a bit longer.