Conor

Stick it down. Our roofers were liberal with stixall

1. We're in a conservation area and managed to keep about half of the risings on site. Sloping site so just looks like we've leveled out a bit... Even though towards the bottom we're a good 2m above original ground level. 2. Was a condition of our planning that we manage site run-off and put in mitigation measures to protect the river at the bottom of the garden. If you've any kind of slope, you'll want to stick up a silt fence to stop runoff to your neighbours etc. not too costly and DIY 3. muck away costs are massively local. We paid something like £120 per 16t load. Next quote was £225. 816 tonme in all. Replaced with 400t of stone lol Finally, you can just pile it up and figure out what to do with it at the end.

That's cavitation. What kind of "flow restrictor" are you talking about? Throttled valves are bad news all round. For big pressure gradients (6bar or more) on water mains, we use two PRVs inline to step down pressure and reduce cavitation. When you spend £10k putting something in the ground, you don't want to replace it in 5 years.

Sounds like you've too much glass and not enough insualtion (to be that far off the min regs) Address those design issues (what has your architect advised?) And get a small ashp and a 4pkW PV array. That's what we have and wouldn't change it for the world.

Use plastic pipes and lag. Don't fix to the ceiling joists and have a layer of mineral wool insulation under. Won't hear anything

I don't think you need to pour anything. A stack of pavers or concrete block to a couple hundred mm above the ground. Maybe one in each corner and a couple on the long length. Then just set the timber base on top. If it's exposed you'll want some sort of tether sunk in to the ground.

The 3x2m timber structure you describe is basically a large shed. Assume no need for running water, tiled floor etc? Basically box, opening on one side and a bench seat or similar? It's not going to weigh much. You could get away with putting it on timber stilts, sitting on paving slabs. Or even on a trailer chassis if you ever need to move it. No concrete needed either way.

I think they have other issues then. More likely some sort of water ingress. Only one of our two MVHRs is functional at the minute, we've no hint of condensation anywhere. I even checked the roof steels the other day as they are partial cold bridges... No hint there. (I'll not talk about the damp wall in the basement tho!!!)

Have you done any sort of rendering before? I'd be putting on a traditional sand and cement - scratch coat then finish, then paint. It'll keep the water out.

Power on site nowadays is only really used for lighting and charging the odd battery. If using an extension, make sure the supply is properly earthed and protected, RCD etc. Ideally you'd want it in a protective conduit or even use SWA... you need allow an idiot factor. and for the extension itself, best getting the a spool of heavy duty blue (frost resistant) flex cable and cutting to the right length and putting on your own plug and weatherproof sockets.

You'll never see them. Not sure if you can remember mine, but they are JA solar 350w mono black panels.

If you have it setup that each unit is picking up the WiFi signal from the previous unit, there is a drop in speed each time. You really want each unit connected via a LAN cable. For example in our upstairs office, we were getting 20mbs or less when in pure WiFi mode, but once I set it up and head all four units on LAN, then we were getting full 125mbs.

I doubt that you'll get anybody zero rating materials these days. I certainty never came across this. Either way, what you're talking about is fraud.

I've the deco M5. Flawless, really good app. You NEED to get the LAN backhaul working because on WiFi to WiFi mode the speeds crash.

We've had a few glasshouses at my dad's place over the years. Every one was a shallow trench, compacted fine stone, dense blocks laid on thier side, only joints roughly mortared (top of blocks roughly ground level), then a course of blocks laid normally on edge on top of this. Then glasshouse built directly on top. Never had an issue, from the 30ft cedar wood house to the current 12ft aluminium house.

Vermiculite has a layered structure with a metallic, shiny appearance on smooth sides. Asbestos is grey/white and fibrous. Looks like you've got something else entirely

Where is your meter/ main fuse? Will you be able to fully isolate the electrics in the area being demolished? I would not want to be demolishing a building with live electric in it. Especially if there is an incoming DNO cable head.

The cold lines on the roof, dwarf wall junctions, and around the reveals will be the timbers, higher thermal conductivity that the filled void. Not much you can do about that other than fitting insulated plasterboard, at a large cost, inconvenience and looks like you can ill afford a loss of headroom.

Complete shitshow. Tbh probably need a company in that knows what they are doing to redo the ducting and condensate pipework. Either that or spend a few a few hours here reading through the many posts and have a go yourself / help your friend out. Probably nothing wrong with the unit, it just looks like it was installed on a Friday afternoon by an unsupervised apprentice.

If you have more than 5 or so cables, make sure you get a managed switch. I've a 12 port Netgear managed switch and it's never missed a beat.

It's not really breathable. There will be a condensation risk on the warm side of the sheets. You'd want a vapour control layer.

Most units now manage output temp to maintain the delta T on the desired range. I just upped mine from 3.5c to 5c.

The constraining factor will be the water volume and flow rate. A 15kW heatpump will require a large volume and flow rate. 7 zones/loops (assuming max 100m each) is too small. Your pump can't modulate down enough when you reduce the flow rate. We've 15+ loops for our 9kW heat pump and a buffer.

Nope, not how my spark did it. Just a standard fused spur. That of course, doesn't me that he is right and yours is wrong...

Feckin farmers. The hoops I had to jump through and measures I had to take to stop silt running off my site in to the river was huge. I had to provide a report with photos proving I'd taken the required steps. Mean while farmer Willie up the road has a 10 acre field ploughed bear all winter, loses 10s of tonnes of soil every time it rains. Totally fine.... That's serious run-off... I think you need something like a cattle grid with massive sump, with overflow going to a ditch or watercourse. Or speak to the council / highways?