Declan52

The tape I used from gerband required a type of glue that you applied like silicone into y the block work. It was a flexible adhesive and very very sticky. https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/winflex-i-airtight-window-tape/ https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-fortax-6400-airtight-sealant/

Set them out in piles so they are ready to be used roughly 1m back from the wall. 4 in a row then 4 on top at 90 degrees and then again till it's 5 high. Cover them with some plastic sheeting so they stay dry. What's left over can sit on the ends of the slab resting on internal walls so the weight is down through onto the foundation.

Don't drink the reed diffuser if you get thirsty.

Def look towards a 200mm cavity of your going for EPs beads. Wet plaster is a massive help. Then it's just the simple things. No letter box, good quality 3g Windows, every light switch and socket conduit sealed up, ceiling lights covered over using thermal hoods or clay plant pots if your tight like me, airtightness tape from the blocks to your window and door frames. There's many tiny details that aren't expensive to do but will have a big impact on your houses heat loss.

I was recommended a Shelly 1 by @PeterW and have been using it to turn my rads on upstairs. Using the app on my phone I can set it like a normal timer clock so it turns the pump on at whatever time I need during the week. You can also just load up the app and turn it on as well. Very easy to set up using wago connectors and a few wires to turn a massive amount of things on and off. The Facebook support group is also very good.

Yes too much over thinking. The brickie will take the height measurements from the lowest point. Using a level transfer a mark to each corner and all these marks will be dead level. If he has to bed up a bit or tighten down a bit on any corner its no big deal. When they are built if they are 2/3mm out it's no issue.

As above 3 courses of blocks on their flat will give you 3* 100mm plus 3 motar beds. You can just bed them normally as 15mm of a height increase is nothing to worry about.

The 180 PE in 8in SI means they have a used an old cast iron pipe system to run the PE (polythene) gas pipe through.

Have had no problems except 1 window steam up due to the seal failing. Phoned up and it was replaced 3 weeks later. Mine are in 6 years now so so far so good. At the time I made that choice for the amount I paid they where far and away the best window I could get for the money.

I've never heard of servicing Windows. What would a service normally entail for uPVC windows for example??

When the time comes to get measured up get every company in the phone book out and get the prices back. Rule no one in or out till you have it all in black and white in front of you and just compare each and every price with in this case the u values of the windows. You will also get a feel for the company by how the sales rep conducts themselves. If your gut goes no then it's usually right. Then pick a winner.

Just tell them they missed their change to engage with you so if they don't like how it looks now then tough. How it looks is what you got permission for and that's how it's going to stay. Stop being nice to people who aren't nice to you.

Most of the uPVC window companies here use Camden Windows based in Antrim for supply. You then have other companies like McMullen O'Donnell who have a very good reputation. Baskil which is Munster joinery will make you the cheapest 2g Windows. They also do a 3g future proof window passiv rated which I put in mine. Very few companies here do Alu clad so they charge a premium. Did you go to the self build show in Belfast to see all the displays there???

We have a flow meter available to hire to members. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/3281-on-loan-anemometers-for-testing-and-setting-up-mvhr/page/4/

The trick with doing any mix is not to overfill the mixer and actually let it mix. Put too much sand and cement and it will all stick to the back of the mixer and only the volume at the front mixes and it might not contain any cement as it's all stuck on the back wall of the mixer. When you have the volume you need shoveled in walk away for a few minutes and let it mix over and over. Don't just lash water in until it looks right and tip it out.

Keep the windows open fully of possible during the day and on the latch so still partially open over night to get the air circulating through the house.

Take it down from the top stone by stone with acrows holding up the roof. Will mean you save a lot of the original stone for use elsewhere.

Out of all your options it's the only one that I would choose. More expense for you though. Is it on every wall or just a few sections?? Shine a torch down the cavity and see how many boards kick out indicating they aren't flush with the wall. Have you said to the builder you ain't happy with this aspect???

Just use insulated plasterboard on the inside is the easiest option. Not the cheapest but it is what it is. If you take it all down and do it again some boards will end up the same. It happens all the time, it really shouldn't but that's the joys of building.

Right guys just for a change can you all pretend you aren't 12 again.

Use things like scaffolding planks to create raised beds. Much easier to look after then bending down to the ground. Have specific areas, a veg and herb garden, mixture of evergreen plants mixed through with whatever plant you like so none look bare in the winter. An area to sit and chill in the evening that gets the sun. Simple things like that don't cost much.

The Milwaukee impact wrench is unreal. Would break your wrist if you don't have your Witt's about you. I use Makita 12v. Much easier to handle all day and still has plenty of power for anything I need it for

They are both quality brands of power tools. It will just come down to do you want yellow or blue coloured power tools!!

How far out is it?? How much depth of floor insulation and screed did you plan on using?? Was the wall on this pic built up during the foundations??

Is it this wall???