Declan52

Most will be put out round your house by the delivery lorry if you have provided a good stoned drive capable of taking the weight of the lorry with it's load. They have a hiab that should reach most of what you need. You might need to use the digger to lift the odd one if the hiab can't reach. They will run the shortest route from wall to wall.

As long as it's not organic material it's fine to bury under the slab. It's ventilated anyway so will be fine. Use it where ever you can, put some on the road in as a base or under the slab it's all saving you buying materials in to replace it.

If you have a washing machine in your utility then it's going to mess things up as you will need room to slide the machine in so will be more than 600mm.

Wet the walls first then it won't suck as much out of the plaster. And I mean wet not just a tiny bit damp.

Pay cash 👀👀👀👀

Just let the brickies sort that out. They will put the window where it's meant to go and using a combination of bricks or even cut a bit of a block will make the dimensions work. Only really important if your building facing brick but your not so nothing to worry about

No need for a parge coat as this build is in NI so with block and block it will have a scratch coat and then skim on the inside and scratch coat and whatever finish is going on the outside, k-rend dash etc. How they build it will depend on the height, bungalow or 2 storey. Most self builds here use trestle and plank to get to wall plate height, first floor joist height and build overhand which means they build the outside skin first then the inside skin, insulating as they go. What size is your cavity and what are you doing for insulation??

Well look much better than what's there now.

Apart from the obvious out of plumb to finish the brick joints that poor takes some effort. There is no way they used an actual pole jointer and ran it through them beds. They look at best like they have used the round end of a shovel handle and brushed it while it was still wet as the brush marks are all over the mortar. Very very rough and I'm being kind. Me personally would be looking them raked out. It's then up to you if you trust them to redo the joints or leave them raked out and get some one with an ounce of skill to do it for you or just have a raked out joint. I would be going round each corner and long run with the level checking for plumb plus every single opening, windows and doors.

You can use bonding to bring it out. Applied like skim but it's not as fine as skim so could get a few mm extra where it's bad. Or take the plaster board off and pack it out to make it straight.

You could use the wooden slot boards and mount a TV unit on the wall. Much easier than a media wall with none of the issues of you fancy upgrading the TV to a 75 inch unit!!

T met Hannon steel

Did you get a price from baskil( Munster joinery) using their triple glazed Passiv frames as they would be suitable for your 0.80W/m2K standard.

Have you priced up a black corrugated roof. Plenty of them around here. A guy who used to be a member here used it on his build. You can see if in Google maps, the address is 76 Belfast Rd, Ballynahinch BT24 7HE. It's set back from the road behind the green sheds.

There are some Shelly products where you can install a bypass on the circuit, usually on the actual ceiling rose and that works with no neutral.

Don't think they care about that part if its a complete demolition. But it does no harm to phone them up and touch base and explain that your starting the demolition and hope to have the digger in X amount of weeks doing the founds and what's the best number to get you on. Most of them are pretty sound here once they see your doing things the right way.

You seem to have a lot of information about Potton, did you do a build using their services??

Nothing happens at all no matter what way you turn it?? I run mine for around 4 hrs each day as the house only drops around 1 degree overnight.

The cheapest way too find draughts is to walk round with a candle and go up and down each junction in the floor, ceilings round light fittings, wall sockets, windows and doors and see where the flame moves. Very low tech but it works.

110m is usually the max for a run so the flow should never be over 2.75 on the flow meter. Did the plumber record the length of each loop anywhere. They usually write them on the wall above each loop. With each of them open that much there is no way your pump can force that much flow round your floors. It's easier to do it loop by loop. So pick room and by using whatever temp control you have make it call for heat and adjust the flow to no more than 2. Do this for each loop one at a time and then see where you stand. With ufh it's always better to run it longer at a lower temp than shorter at a higher temp. I have mine set to 40 degrees and it will take it roughly 2hrs to increase any floor by 1 degree.

There are usually adjustment screws on the swivel where you use a roofing square if you have one against the side guides then bring the blade down and move it left or right to make it square then tighten the screws back up.

Hope your brickwork is better than your scaffolding cause what your working on is a long way from being classed as a safe working platform.

We built loads of straight arches like these over the years. The bricks come pre cut so everything is the correct dimensions. There used to be a company in Dublin who specialises in these type of jobs. You could do it with a concrete saw but it would be very very time consuming thus making it very expensive.

Well done. Everyone moves in with a list of things they need to do/want to do but can't afford the time/money to do them.

They are used a lot on graves here and they do look nice and shiny but the birds love them. They take them and drop them all over the graveyard.