Declan52

You would definitely need to increase the depth no matter what finish you pick. 50mm of concrete on a road won't last very long. That's bare minimum for a footpath. Should be looking at 75mm -100mm if your looking the lane to take lorries etc. If your going concrete do it in bays. Say 20m long each time. Then if it cracks in the future it's confined to a single bay. All you will need is a mini digger or a shovel if your sadistic to scrape it down to depth and 20m of timber and a load of pegs. Then let the lorry driver back in and fill the bay and drive out filling as he goes. Or buy more timber and do the lot in one go if you can get help.

Unless you have the hot box delivering it and staying there and filling your barrows by the time you get half way through that pile it will have gone cold and be a real pain to shovel,lay and level. Without an edge it will just squash and move out with nothing holding it and crack and then your back to another repair job in a few years. What about some timber 9*1 and a few pegs to form an edge and fill it with concrete??? The lorry can drive to the end then drive out filling as it goes.

No we do. If what was posted was a lie then feel free to say so as long as you can back that up. Having actually got my telehandler ticket and been checked numerous times by the HSE I know that you need it to work on a site. If your unlucky enough to have an accident on site the first thing they check is the training records to see if the person performing that task has the relevant training to perform the task safely.

Having actually done my telehandler test I can confirm that this is lies. You do not need a licence to drive them at the start cause you need a minimum of 300 hours of site work experience before you go and do the actual test. This is because unlike learning to drive a car you can't just have easy access to this type of machinery so it's a given that the best place to learn is on site so you get a bit of leeway. Once you have your hours done you go to do your test. Attached is the actual course I done in the place I actually completed it. Also had my digger and dumper ticket as well just incase you say three don't exist.

If your loading out the floor don't skimp on the acrow props. For an all terrain forklift the ground has to be fairly level as they don't have the front jack legs to level them out before you lift anything high. If it's on the outside on scaffolding you can double up the plank on the scaffolding box you can get the best access to and set a pallet with a double lift off blocks,88, on to it. But as above make sure you see his ticket and he knows if he pushes to far with the forks and wrecks something he pays to fix it. It's very easy to move a wall if your not careful.

Never once cleaned a mixer out between mixes in all my years. Unless you're going from a grey to a coloured mortar your only wasting water. Having been a brickies labourer it's a very physically demanding job that is way harder than it looks. How much the brickies and you earn is all on you. If they have to stop to stack bricks, put scaffolding up etc then they aren't laying bricks so aren't making money. It's as simple as that. You job is to keep the bricks stacked, mortar boards full and the next wall loaded out. Their job is to keep a trowel in hand, lay bricks and make the money.

Forgot about them which is kind of inconsiderate when they made my truss!!!

Try Murdochs/macblair or Quinn's in ardboe.

Hire a plasterer then.

You use a 1 or 2 plank wide toe extension that gets you close enough to the wall. Then as they move down the lift the planks of so no splashes mark the new render.

Are you employing a builder to do the complete build who will then sub out to specific trades or you doing the foot work finding each trade.

Nothing says you can't take the scaffold down yourself it's just all the risk is on your shoulders. If one of the bars hits the wall it's your fault. A scaffolder will drop it in no time compared to what you could do. Plus it's usually in the price. Don't try and save money on the plastering. Pay the money and get it done right as this is what you see everyday. It's a very skilled job. Good plaster can hide all sorts of sins left by brickies and joiners.

Our countryside is covered with homes that have the black corrugated roof with wood cladding and white render and they look fantastic.

All the local tile companies, Lagan tegal Northstone breedon etc will all have reps who will gladly call round to site with samples for you to look at. I got loads for mine and set them all out on the roof and then stood out on the street and made the choice. You would be surprised how little difference there is when your on the ground looking up. In the end I picked a flat concrete tile.

So your telling me that I can buy a new set of sweet looking wheels to pimp the robot up!!! Sold.

Do you have the same cracks on the inside wall???

It was a worx landroid L model that I seen. Couldn't care less about stripes!!! If it was only the first cut using my petrol mower and a tidy up round the edge I can happily live with that.

Has anyone any knowledge of a robot mower. I'm looking to get a new mower and was originally looking at a ride on and went to see a few but during one of these visits to a garden centre I had a look at a robot mower and was initially impressed. Price wise the few I seen are coming in around £1k while most ride on mowers up at least double this for a decent one. Apart from the obvious initial cost savings the sales rep was also stressing the difference in running costs. With no petrol to buy and no real moving parts to service each year these really seem to make buying a robot mower a viable option. My garden is just over 600m² with a fairly simple L shape so the boundary wire is straightforward.

Weep vents are designed to let moisture out not in by the way the fins are angled. Some will always make it through but won't cause any issues so put them at wherever the architect wants them to go. He should have positions indicated on your drawings??? If you imagine the bottom of your floor insulation as the base then your cavity insulation should start at this level so you have a continuous layer from the floor right through to the cavity and then this goes up to where it meets the roof insulation to form an envelope around the house. You will have wall ties that hold both block skins together and the very bottom row is what you first layer of insulation rests on.

You basically phone up a few companies that do this work and specify what exactly you listed above as your needs. They then send out the guys with the drilling rig who will go to whatever depth you require, 10m+ easily for what you are looking. As they drill down they perform spt tests which give the bearing capacity of the ground at the various depths which is the information a SE will use to give you your drawings. Unless there has been something nasty on your site in the past then I don't see the need for chemical analysis. The drillers will record the water table depths when they strike it on their logs.

You can use a trestle and planks positioned at the staircase opening and load this out with 40-60 blocks then hop up on to it and then lift the blocks up onto the first floor and then move them to wherever they need to go and just repeat this until you have enough up there. This is the cheapest option but obviously the slowest. It will also depend on what type of house your building. If it's a bungalow then you will have only blocks for the 2 peaks and maybe a few internal walls so not that many. But if it's a 2 storey with peaks again then your going to take need something mechanical. Either a nice local farmer with forks on a machine or a bumpa like above will be your best option.

Yeah post your question in the relevant section and see if you can get an answer to your issues.

Welcome. Did you research the well known mica issues with some builds in Donegal??

Did you find what you where looking for !!!

That's who made my attic truss. Very easy to deal with plus they are only a mile away from me which helped.