Declan52

Did you watch the first episode of grand designs new series a few weeks back. It showed how much of an issue this can be. Not sure if it's still on 4od if you missed it.

Like this

Underneath or at the side, depends where the handle is, of the window there will be an adjustment screw. It's on a concentric circle so as you turn it you can see if moving in and then out. Can't remember the size Allen key you need think it's a 4mm.

It will tone down with the sun but it won't happen quick. I have gold stone cladding on the north and south faces of my build and the south is a lot lighter in colour but mine is up 4 years now.

Everyone gets that low point where you wonder why the fcuk did I start this. Just remember how much you have done and done right and in a year you will laugh at how you let it worry you. And letting of steam is always good. Don't keep it in as it will fester and then it will really get you down. Have a rant on here or give it to the first trade that tries it on. Whatever works for you.

The pir only has to stay in place long enough to let you get the plasterboard up and when pushed in tight it will hold it. Expanding foam would be my choice.

Countryside here has lots of partially started builds where the people have ran out of money and the bank have taken it over. As Peter says the beads are blown in at high pressure and are coated with so end up solid. Will be the easiest method of doing what you need to do. I would be checking everything like dpc, how plumb are the walls, how square are door and window openings. Did the previous owners have building control do inspections up to what point it is at now and can you get your hands on these??

Looking tasty

Wasn't anything weird or kinky going on the corner pop up socket is right beside the window so was the closest socket to put the hot tub lead into.

We have two in the kitchen. One in the middle of the island so if I am in bake off mode I can have the mixer plugged in and not have any cables in the way. There is always phone charger leads plugged in to it as well. We have short leads, 200mm, so the socket can be pushed down and the phone sits on top so is tidy looking. The other one is in the corner of the L shape bit and is mostly for the use of the kettle and toaster. Only problem we had with it was the hot tub blew the fuse.

For some unknown reason most sparks here use them. Must be the go to screw off choice they are all taught when they are doing their tech course.

Doctor Murphy would be the ideal candidate, good choice.

No you are correct. They should be all round the other way. It won't really make no difference. It really should have toe boards as well. They are upturned at the outside to stop anything that might get dropped, hammer or a brick, falling through and hitting some poor sod on the nut.

It will depend on what add ons you have installed if you can watch the sports.

Gives a decent few days esp Thurs so Gd luck.

Give these guys a phone and explain the situation. There used to be a scheme called thermal comfort where they topped up your loft insulation, done the cavity if needed and put energy saving bulbs in your house. My mum got it done about 3 years ago but not sure if it's still going. https://www.nidirect.gov.uk/contacts/contacts-az/bryson-energy-advice-line

Your going to have to hose it to get rid of dust so it's clean for the new mix to key to it. All loose edges removed.

Put some chocolate down at the hole with some more in a trap and try to entice your lodger out.

The main difference in using attic truss and a cut roof is with a cut roof you will have the ability to bring your insulation and any membrane you are using from one wall plate up and down and over to the other side with no breaks. With attic truss you will be left with the three triangle areas, red areas in pic, which will be cold areas as they are outside the standard insulation area. Your membrane will go where the green line is on the pic. You can of course go for a warm roof and then all the insulation is between and above the truss. The only other thing to remember is a cut roof is only as good as the joiner cutting it. Attic truss are precision factory made. Both types of roofs have their advantages and disadvantages and each will require specific detailing with regards insulation and membranes.

What you really mean to say where it's all the crap everyone else has in their garages, 5 tins of paint, lawnmower, patio set, black bags filled with stuff for the dump etc.

Easier to use a soft brush. Gives the motar a rougher joint so wet plaster will key better to it. The back of the cavity wall will need scraped to take of the rough bits of motar or the insulation won't sit tight to the blocks.

Looks 100mm. Why are they jointing the block work mortar??? What are you putting in the cavity for insulation???

Put a block on each end where it's level. Wrap a string line around the block and pull it to the other and wrap it round this. Pull the block to tighten the line and move it in to 10mm from the edge of the timber that is low. Go along and pack the soleplate up till it's level with the line. Then go along and squeeze in your motar.

So has it not been bedded enough and sunk or was the timber slightly twisted.

How much out are you talking???