Declan52

Have you been mis sold a combi boiler in the last 10 years. If so we offer a no win no fee no hassle claim service. Has a nice ring to it.

@JSHarris built his own rig for doing a blower test from an old car radiator fan. Not sure he has put the info on this site but am sure it's in his blog somewhere.

Pay attention to where your joists go into the wall. You will need some sort of tape to seal these up. There will be some where you just can't get to and will have to use expanding foam and fill the gap as best you can.

Why not just do all the work you intend and then have the mhrv main use as keeping the air in your house nice and clean. If it recovers some heat then fine. If you have done exceptionally well with all your work and have your house leak free then you will save a bit more.

Is it just cracks in the walls or have windows started to crack and doors not closing properly?? Has whoever done the investigation dug down where the cracks are heading to see if the concrete founds have cracked?? Is there any equipment on either side of the cracks to monitor the movement?? It isn't going to be a quick fix. The insurance company will want it monitored for maybe up to a year to see how much it's moving. During this time they will do any cutting down of the trees and will be able to see if this is enough to stop the ground shrinking. As it will be going through an insurance company anyone who goes to buy the house will have this flagged up to them so might cause a problem.

Well done. Another box ticked off. Onto the next.

Should be a lead tray built in as they went up. Or you run a Saw up and push the lead into the cut. Then seal it up. What's there won't do jack to stop any rain running down the wall to the room below. Don't accept a slap of silicone or lead mate to patch it in.

I put some quick step laminate in my previous house. It's a very good quality flooring. It was down over 5 years and still looked great. I doubt they could advertise a flooring as quickstep and not actually supply you with the proper stuff.

The gutters on that extension don't look right. The end section after the downspout looks like it has sunk. This could be throwing water into the cavity. Is there damp in that room at that corner. There is also some spuds growing in the gutters at the other side. Need to start at the top and fix those tiles and check for any others that are cracked/loose and work your way down. Clean out the guttering and fix that droopy bit. Connect the spout that is hovering in mid air directly into the gutter below. Check to see if that lead is still sealed against the wall. It looks like there are a couple of holes at the end.

Seriously go to the start of this thread and see how much you where all over place trying to figure out basic stuff and then look at that pic. Leaps and bounds. Well done for sticking at it.

You will need some sort of shutter to stop the main house floor spilling out. The inside of the garage will be plastered I assume so will be smooth up till the main house floor at the step. Your can then bring your tiles or wooden floor out till the end of the step and finish it with an edging that suits the floor type. All you will be left with will be a 100mm of wall at the step that you paint the same colour as the rest of the walls.

Any garage I ever seen just had normal pir floor insulation in place. They all have pretty high compressive strength. The important part is making sure what's below has been well compacted so it's as solid as can be. Same goes with putting mesh in. Have seen both with and without. If it was me I would put it in. If you have left enough for a step then just do it that way.

I had a little column at the bottom that was titled Florida fund. Each change I made in any other section above had an immediate effect on this so I was able to see how good we where really doing. It was also a great driver in pushing me on when things hit the fan in that not only was I going to end up with a house that I was also getting a once in a life time holiday out of it as well. At the end on the build we had saved enough to be able to do 3 weeks in Orlando seeing everything that we wanted and more. The only problem is Orlando ain't a once in a lifetime visit. We went this April for 2 weeks and hopefully will go again next Halloween.

Or having spent all week day and night thinking about valves walk into the plumbers merchants stand at the counter and take a complete brain fart and buy something you have 10 of already. Drive home, start to get out of the car and then sigh and mutter for fcuks sake.

I was obsessed with the constant filling in off our spreadsheet. When you have a very small budget it really does focus the mind on how far you need to push each sales rep in order for it to fit the figure you have in column D18.

A big powerful bass speaker is handy for such occasions.

If you go with a breathable felt you don't need a 50mm gap. You can get the higher density earthwool that is better for this type of job. You can fully fill the gap if you counter batten the roof. https://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/products/earthwool-frametherm-roll-32

I think your being very harsh on yourself. Have seen tiles done a lot worse by so called professionals.

That was a massive hole in the ground. Some very tidy digger work though. Thought the house looked very nice when it was finished.

I was also able to claim for my retaining wall. Mine was classed as part of the build as it was needed to form the driveway.

Don't have to take the full roof of. Take some tiles of 2 rows and cut the felt and lath to give you an opening. Lying on your belly you should get 3 spacings each side of the opening maybe even 4 if your a bit more flexible. Depending on how wide the roof is you will need to do 3/4 openings. You will need some roof felt to patch in your cuts in the existing felt. Or stick 100mm insulated plasterboard on the underside of the ceiling. What type of lights are in the room below??

Yeah just work out a rough run of how they will sit. You don't want to end up with a tiny cut each time. The bit you cut from one run is your first piece in the next run. Means you have very little waste with the only length cut when you get to the opposite wall. D4 glue is quick to set so don't be going ahead more than the board you are laying. Just put a screw in each corner and one in the middle to hold it in place. Mark the middle of the joist on the board so you can strike a line across and go mental with the cordless when they are all down. Or if you can get another pair of hands they can be banging in the screws as you lay the boards.

What about threaded bar, bolted into timber behind your plasterboard. The thinner the bar though the weaker the shelf will be.

I have a few of these in the house. Lots of fixing holes so are pretty sturdy. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/storage-furniture/wall-shelves/lack-wall-shelf-white-art-90282180/

So am of work for a week and bored already so had a thought about trying to find the best temperature for the water in my ufh.Currently it's set at 36. The plumber set it at this and never changed it in 4 years. My set up is a pellet boiler which heats a 350l thermal store to 68 degrees and from this I draw all my heat for both my ufh and 3 rads on the first floor and all my dhw. Each room on the ground floor has a stat which calls for heat when needed. I am trying to figure out is it better/ more economical to have water at its present temp being pumped round for the 90 mins it generally takes to start to feel heat in your feet or would it be better to reduce this temp to somewhere between 25-30. Once the slab is heated it takes a few hrs to cool down. So would it be more efficient to run the heating for 3-4 hrs at 25 degrees or keep it as it sits. Going to 25 it will obviously take longer to empty the thermal store so the stove won't fire up as much. But the pumps etc will be running for much longer. During the winter I would have the heating come on once in the morning and if it gets really cold then once in the evening.