Declan52

Stretch your legs and back before during and after you start. Always found a protein shake helped ease the pain as well afterwards.

It all depends how far out you are. If it's not far away you could break the concrete out enough and use either 11.5 degree or 22.5 degree bends to move it over slightly.

How far out from the wall are they??? What kind of toliet had you planned in the rooms?? How handy are you with a kango!!!

How much insulation are you putting on top of the sub floor??? And screed depth??

Did you try cp hire to see if they had any ex hire diggers available or crumlin plant hire in Portadown. Both might sell older ex hire stock. Wilson auctions do plant sales every month as well.

As my house was a mixture of lightweight blocks and standard blocks I used for example on a 6mm screw a 5.5mm bit for the standard blocks but 5mm for the lightweight blocks. All gripped the very best.

Do you have to use SS screws I would something like turbo gold screws do.

What did you use to cut it?? Would a diamond tipped blade in a grinder do the job. Do you have to use special screws with it that cut into it??

Drill the hole with a 0.5mm smaller bit than it recommends. That's all I done for my door frames.

I will be redoing my upstairs shower in a few months and was looking at using hardieback board. What's it like compared to MR plasterboard.

Yeah there are quite a few from NI here now but a bit too many from co down!!! Another member @DeeJunFan is nearly finished his house in mayobridge. Nice looking house.

The bars are all straight. Sounds obvious but when your swinging of a bar trying to get the pin to drop in but it won't reach and then realise the standard is bent out you will have to undo a good few bars just to replace the one bent one. Hard to bend a transom but standards and ledgers get bent by not do skilled telehandler drivers all the time. You can never have enough screw jack feet. Long diagonal 21 ft poles to brace it otherwise you will definitely need your sea legs. After that it's just checking the ledgers and transoms all have both pins in then. Impossible to check all the welds on each standard so give a few the once over esp the ones that look freshly painted. It's very easy to put up once you understand where each bit goes.

If you bang on it with a sledge in a few places and make it bounce it will clear all the crap that is around the sides. Then you must lift it straight up or the two pieces lock tight together and won't budge.

Would use both. Won't need as many screws just enough to hold it in place till whatever your using as an adhesive goes off.

They review the new telsa model x on this week's grand tour. Very very impressive car in every aspect except the £150k price tag.

Make sure it's well covered up or it won't belong going to mush.

Let Faye lose on Pinterest and she will soon have enough pins to really confuse you even more.

Nice tiles but they won't exactly squeegee to well.

Have you any recess holes planned in. Think they really look the part. Will be redoing my shower in the upstairs bathroom in the next couple of months so have been flat out looking at loads of design options all which include recess holes like in the pic below.

To describe using expanding foam as a permanent solution is mind boggling. Why not scud the bare block walls to seal them up. Will save a major amount of heat over the lifetime of a build for a few hrs work with a couple of bags of cement and sand mixed. How much diligence do you enforce with your brickies with regards the proper fitting of cavity wall insulation.

A little bit of something naughty is always good it gets me through the day.

@Nickfromwales are you an abracadabra or issy whizzy let's get busy type magician. I bet being one of the worlds biggest sesame Street fanboys your a la peanut butter sandwich spell caster.

Do you leave the nice looking mastic everywhere and expanding foam in place in every house or is it just the show house that gets this AAA gold plated NVQ level 3 standard of workmanship.

How do you insure your dot and dab on the inside skin doesn't become a thermal tent?? How do you seal the blockwork up to prevent this??? It's would be a course of thermal block on the inside of the founds. At most maybe 100 block at a £1 extra each. Same price to lay so it's a £100 maybe extra but would definitely help. That's kind of the difference here, most here tend to go that extra step as it's their own build. For you it's just a job and at the end of the day its all about profit which I fully understand as it's what keeps the rust off your frying pan and the bed clothes dry.

But the beams are sitting on the foundation walls which the inside skin then carries up. Do you use light weight/ thermal blocks here at this junction to stop the cold bridge.