SiBee

onoff kind of answered your question. The symptom? well how are you going to stop people washing their hands with soap thats provided? Not sure if different types of soap help? In a public wc which gets a lot of traffic you can get heavy build up (I may have some old pictures somewhere for interest) Hot water helps but not everyone will wait for a decent flow of hot water or run enough to flush away stuff. Quick in and out and get on with the days business.

Flip side to that Joe, in my experience, the flow/speed is reduced in the bigger pipe so crud may not be washed down the pipe as good. I would not hesitate to use the bigger size though having replaced many 32mm runs which have become 3/4 blocked with solidified soap fats ect

I agree with everything the guys have said. My opening is 5900mm and I have replaced a roller door with a sectional. In that width the roller doors looks a bit industrial when compared to the sectional. I was told normal practice is to fit either of these behind the brickwork anyway. I do miss the roller door though in the sense that head height is compromised with the sectional door and half the garage lighting is lost when the sectional door is only even part way up. Lighting on the side of the walls instead of directly above is not the same. I have had problems with the frame moving out of square resulting in the door rollers coming out of the guides. This should not happen and my frame is significantly braced, but it did. If it moves again the manufacturer has agreed to upgrade the rollers and guides. I used to repair vehicles so a 4x4 or big suv was difficult to work under as I could never jack them up as high as previously with a roller door. The roller door tended to get dirty very easily with it rolling its crud around itself. The sectional door I bought increased in price over 6m (I think thats the dim given) as the rolling gear is beefed up to cope with the extra loads (catches a lot of wind a door that size). I would still chose a sectional again but just because its softer on the eye IMO.

Not sure what that is? It is fixed at £50 a year if that’s what you mean. Bernadette just informed me that Simerec sent a letter informing us that we had to request the purchase fee from them and this may be chargeable. From this I am guessing that they can charge what they want for the lease purchase then?

When the metal rusts though, will this not cause nasty staining on the surrounding surfaces?

Our home is a newish build, about 14 years old I think. We pay £50 a year ground rent to the listed owner Simerec. Often in the past the lease would get sold on and we would get the option to purchase it but this would often be in the thousands. I classed this as money I could put to better use but it would be nice to own. As we will be looking to sell up soon I don`t see it is a selling point or a deal breaker either. If mine was £1200 then I would be thinking hard about buying it even at £12 a year land rent and 103 year payback.

Think Nod might be right but I have used both of the following with great results. tilemaster level flex - 2-50mm in one pour. setcrete deepbase - 5 - 50mm in one pour. 20kg bag covers 2.2m2 at 5mm depth. £19.99 a bag at Wickes. Tilemaster have a very helpful technical phone line. Some of their products can use aggregate to beef out the depth so may be worth asking them for advice. This may help with costs if you can source their stuff locally. Stuff gets good reviews on tilers forum. Simon

Think we used vermiculite fire board and fire bricks for the last gas fired kiln we refurbished in work. Was not cheap to buy but easy to work with. Si

I may have filled my bathroom window trickle with expanding fire foam. The howling gale blowing through the closed vent in the winter months from this exposed side seems to have been cured?

Spax do a range similar to the timco ones mentioned above. Available at MKM Southport which is near you. Cpc carry decent Reisser concrete screws and they are online or the Preston branch is not far. Use both on a regular basis with good results. The Dewalt wall dogs have been a bit hit and miss and not available in a lot of lengths. The thread is fast and it requires a 5mm pilot. Try buying a non sds 5mm masonary bit. I don’t think you can have a one fits all, you are always going to need a selection.

Lowcostheatingsupplies.co.uk have it at £28 so shop around. It’s a Geberit waste for use with RAK feelings shower tray. I have only ever fitted two shower trays and just used a low profile waste from my local merchants so the line above is the first result from A google search?

Even if you employ a plumber to repair this, it wont be expensive but if you have very basic skills and tools you could complete it yourself. What about a dry trap tundish such as screwfix item 5384v at £18.23. This one operates at full flow or with just a drip, seal off and also provide an air gap. Just need to cut a piece out of your pipe and connect it in. I have used a pedestal sink trap such as screwfix item 30503 with a plain, open tundish item 2247v and a few reducers I already had but cant find parts in the diy outlets to show you. Screwfix was only referenced for ease, other outlets sell this kit too.

Mine had to have an air gap/break according to the boiler installation instructions. Fit a trap to provide a water seal which will block the drain smells. Have a look at sink traps. Mine is a flexible pipe which just drops into a tundish/funnel which sits on top of a sink trap which then drops into the main soil stack. If that makes sense. I picked a trap with water seal rather than a straight through one as I thought this might work better here as it wouldnt get as much use as a sink. The bag seal type ones I have used have been known to let a wiff out when they goo up.

Classidur universal xtrem. Job done. Discussed a bit on the painters forums. Old boys do what Dave mentioned as it works? It’s great that a forum exists for most things?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knipex-12-62-180-SB/dp/B000C74WBO The company I work for manufacture led signals for the road and railway. We have to use the automatic strippers as in the link above (other brands are available). These adjust to the cable automatically so less chance of stripping strands. Using side cutters and manually adjustable strippers here is a big no no for assembly work. Really handy but no good for stripping back the outer sheath of twin and earth ect

The plumber left it like this? is the toilet fed off mains pressure or gravity fed? New cistern fill valves can have different restrictors to suit either. Retro ones from the usual diy outlets are red and white with different bore sizes and the ones in the new kit could even be a spiral style. My experience is that not all float/fill valves work properly on gravity fed I.e they need a certain pressure to work. In my en suite every so often you have to keep pressing the button to get it shut off or the toilet just keeps filling/flushing. As said already, have a word with your relative and get the guy back, he can’t leave it like that.

Thanks for the replies. onoff, over on the tilers forum they mention the ltp stuff in a good way. Crack on and go spray some white grout and report back? See if it really is invisible?

Hi guys, I know the community has at least one tiler on so hoping for a decent recommendation. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good grout sealer please. I dont want my white grout in the bathroom to go orrible, would prefer it to stay white. The bath panel which is all glass mosiacs needs a dark grey grout which also needs to keep its colour. Never had much luck with charcoal or dark grey grouts tbh but needs must. Would the sealer change the colour of white grout? Using tilemaster grout 3000. Best Regards, Simon

I deal with the Aurora rep for our area ( Southport, Merseyside, Blackpool) from time to time and he is a knowledgeable guy. I could pm his email address from work tomorrow if that helps? Nice guy, sure he could help regarding Aurora/ en lite products. For what it’s worth, I do like Aurora and en lite stuff and ask my wholesaler to bring it in. They don’t rate it but then they are always pushing their own brands. I trust my eyes and hands and experience with stuff more.

Sound advice above but this may be useful to consider. I would be worried about marking out everything using a Sharpie (other marker pens are available too). You can get bleed through over time. Paint yes and maybe through plaster. Sometimes we over look the obvious. I once worked for an aerospace company which produced large aluminium panels. these got some form of etched coating after various stages of cleaning and then sprayed white. During the early stages of forming, the tin bashers would highlight defects to be worked on with big circles using marker pens. These marks eventually got removed with an approved chemical wipe (triac substitute) before the cleaning process. Fast forward months and a customer complaint came in regarding the cock and balls someone had drawn under the paint on the side of a new plane. It was a big deal. Turns out that the tin bashers markings had bled through and it was unfortunate that the panels once fitted, made the shape of a cock and balls. The reason why I was nearly flung out of the factory on my first day- I pulled out a marker to draw a guide line on a wall. No one told me that markers where banned and this story was the reason given for the ban. It was in Wigan so I never doubted☺️

Never heard that 7m rule either? For what its worth, our existing house is a relatively new build (4/5 bedroom) and all the rads are fed off and return to 22mm branches. These branches have been made as long as is practicable though. I replaced the boiler last year and two of the nearest rads have since been run in 15mm. Yes it takes a bit to balance the system and the new fancy designer panel rad which happens to be furthest away from the boiler takes a while to heat, even now. So, it can be done. Thing with microbore is that a poor bend will restrict the flow massively as will not de burring cut ends and poor soldering. For anyone not used to plumbing, its easy to not get a good seal on the compression joints such as at the rad valves. its too easy to over tighten the joint. All our plumbers (old boys) hate micro bore, say it can block up easy like? Did I put you off☺️ its easy to run in though.

How does the paying for parking on arrival work? I pre paid online which cost £12. I arrived from the NW about 09:30 and drove onto the first car park that looked empty as I am fussy where I leave my vehicles. I think it was east A1 car park opposite the rear of hall 12. No gates or barriers and the only other vehicles seemed to be exhibitors from the shows. We left about lunch time and the car park was still empty and again no barriers or people on the booths? feel cheated out of £12 now? Walked past a car park signed home building show with lots of cars waiting to get in. Regarding the show, can anyone tell me who the company is selling the cork panels and stools? they where at the rear of the halls? Si

I am no expert but my thinking is Izodom, isoquick and Jackon or Jackodur Atlas as its called. These interlock with the wall perfectly which I think makes for a better and easier install if building up with ICF. I played with the Jackon stuff at the show yesterday and was really impressed. It is made in Germany but ships from their warehouse in the NW England (very close to me) and they hold stock. Price might dictate which I eventually use though but I would be happy with any of these. I do intend to visit as many alternatives as possible to see which I can work with as I do like the idea of insulated raft. Wouldn`t it be great if they had a show where every manufacturer had their product set out for comparison.

Wow! Your home is fantastic. MTV used to air a show called cribs which visited the homes of the rich, famous and footballers and yours would not be out of place. I am new to the site (lurked for ages though) and really appreciate it when folk like your good self share their experiences and take the time and effort to post and put pictures up. Thanks again for sharing Si PS should I have mentioned footballers as it’s a bit Scottish around here?

CPC also sell them, sometimes cheaper than the usual suspects. Depot in Preston may not be too far for you to collect? Search: Reisser concrete frame screws, various pack size and length options are available. Hope that helps