scottishjohn

also is that that payback is making an assumption on electricity prices in 5-10 years time ,or just using todays if it keeps going at 10- 20 % or close to it a year then the calculation changes a lot costs more i know but a 10kw array with batteries on modern house should see nearly zero grid usage except in winter I know its hard one and as you say you will be selling house in 5years --then scrap some of what we have said and just go gas +ufh

hi and welcome if you have mains gas its a no brainer- at first look --but ASHP woud give option ,with right unit to cool house as well there will be no RHI worth thinking about with new build to near passiv specs -are you going to have solar pv+plan for battery storage when it gets cheaper?and maybe then run your ASHP on your own power ? I would always say go UFH --so much more flexibility in where you put furniture etc with no radiators MVHR is a must with new air tight build --extra heating --doubt ti will be needed ,but could be retro fit later if you plan it now depending on if its going to be open plan --you might not need upstairs heating --but you can still have wet ufh in a timber floor anyway - so maybe It would be a good choice to fit piping etc anyway-- your architect should be able to tell you that when heat calcs are done sure you will get plenty of other suggestions --enough to make your head spin

ok you gurus here is my simple view on this thermal mass thing we all use concrete slab and UFH - -why? cos its store heat and regulates how it releases it and most agree its the best way ? well you build a concrete house with insulation on the outside of the concrete --you will have all the walls to act as a heat sink and storage device ,which by its nature will stop rapid changes . excess heat caused by solar gain I just do not see being a problem if attention is paid to window area ,and suitable shading+ mvhr ,as we presume this house will be air tight whatever its built from what the house is built from should not make much of an impact on these problems--that is a design problem not a fabric one that to me sums it all up. shoot me down boys

my choice is a matter of principle -

have not bought french wine for years since the big lamb debarcle -stopping our farmers getting lamb to market in france plenty of good wine from other countries

you can always pre drill but yes i understand that why good quality screws and driver with torque setting is important -also using in old beams where wood is dried out will increase the load --so if old beams maybe pre -- drill which is why i suggested the 8mm not 6mm type

drilling the stone work to attach what ever type you use will be the bad part of the job will depend how rough and uneven the stone work is and if really lumpy may be simpler just to drill for each tie fixing as you go ? just another buggering about job as you get with old buildings all the time

If you put a post on this forum for other peoples views I think you will get a better perspective on the thing i have one leave it turned on 24/7 and it just comes on when the room stats say it needs too -simple

If you have done this 3 times before and been happy i wonder why you are even asking the question ? surely the questions about H+S are one for these boys --the fact that they want to be just paid by the day says to me they don,t want any sort of responsibility for anything -- and I,m sure they are great guys which is fine if you are fine with that they used call it "working on the lump" they need to give you an invoice for each weeks labour on their headed company paper . --probably dont, have one - -just hope you don,t get HMRC asking you to pay their income tax later--I been caught with this when employing a mechanic who wanted to be self employed - he even had an hmrc self employed reference cert -which of course i used in my pay role to account for payments i made to him 2 years later hmrc came to me for his basic tax +nhi contributions --cos he never paid his tax --so they came back to me as his employer at that time -- my mistake was not getting an invoice from him for his labour every week ,with that i would have been bullet proof If HMRC come back to you and want another 20%-30% on what you paid them -- it gets expensive Its unlikely it will happen ,but if you worried about them being main contractor and insurance etc ,etc - for insurance to be valid they will need to prove they have all the right certs for H+S--or in a claim insurance will just run away and you as the main contractor you could then be sued by these great guys if they hurt them selves on your site,even if they worked in an unsafe manner --yes its crazy --but that,s how it is these days you need to see they have valid insurance as well --if you want to get it all correct I had a guy who hit himself on the hand with his own hammer --miss hit a ball joint he shattered his hand --off work for months --then he took me to tribunral and the verdict was 80% my fault --for not ensuring he understood that if his hammer handle had grease on it ,then it would be slippy -and only 20% for him being a dipstick I did not run H+s safety course for my one mechanic --so i was at fault the guy was 20 years in the trade - but still cost me a lot of money

a wee question have you actual done this yet? i,m wondering why you did not just use sips panels for the roof ? anyway there are plenty of long fixings available specifically for sips panels which would do for this from the site you posted i would use the ForgeFast Construction Screw Tan 8.0 x 240mm nice big flat head If you have already fixed bottom osb and now you just fitting pir then osb --do you really need to screw it down that hard ?--your going to bond a grp roof on to it which will stick it all together use some no nails or something on both sides of pir andthen maybe just a few screws to keep top sheet in place while it all sets --then on you go with the grp laid up roof , but std osb is not what your grp roof people will spec --it should to be correct roofing osb ideally tongue +groove type it is resin impregnated to stop rot problems and you must not have any moisture on this decking before you lay grp my roofer lays t+g boarding same day as he does the roof lay up to make sure its all dry and if its that big a job --he will lay what he can grp coat in a the day -

would keep away from that you need quotes for different stages saying you just pay by the time spent is a recipe for a continual go slow and so many extras it will break you first thing is get references for previous jobs of your size they have completed --note i say completed not started then run away

just fix batons your sips --maybe more fixings -so you are not over stressing the 11mm or15mm osb . Me i would pre-drill the vertical batons so i know i am feeling how tight it is in the osb outer skin of the sips then attach cross batons ,then cladding so its sips ,then -house wrap then vertical batons the cross batons then cladding I suppose you could just use cross batons - -but for my taste i would like plenty of air gap behind and no ledges for moisture to gather on

why do you want one ? climate is never so cold in uk thats its superiority in COP over ASHP in very low subzero conditions like -20c for months will ever make up for initial costings most parts of uk have an an average winter temp ABOVE zero degrees if you are in canada that would be a different thing Your choice of course ,but having looked at it and costs for the ground works or bore holes etc It did not stand up as a good alternative to ASHP -yes you get more rhi --but if building a thermal efficent house then that will not be that big anyway look very closely before deciding is my suggestion you could have a situation where it might be better --but most cases it will end up more expensive

good idea lets look at history --find me any major buidling project from and including the pyramids and onwards that did not far exceed all the esitmates given before starting bottom line is if the real costs were put down the projects would never start -- i hope they do dump HS2 lot of other things they could spend it on brunnels tunnels +ships .channel tunnel .scotttish parliament building 40m -cost 400 m any extrapolation on previous costings is just another word for a guess !!

on both sides --yes so have faith

why would there be such a report --no one could make such a report as we just do not have proper data --cos its not happened yet not that that stops the project fear media from hyping everything

I suspect as time goes on that road plannings will not be as good as they were ,due to modern type of road surfacing mix which is a chemical setting as much as heat activated and once set you cannot heat it up to reuse it when they are broken up they do not want to stick together like old tarmac you never see modern roads going soft in summer do you ? which is also why they don,t last as long --cos any cracks made in winter do not melt together in summer --so lets water in +bingo frost gets under and blisters it off and the sneaky sods now only apply a 35mm layer -- why ? cos when it comes off it is less than 50mm hole --so is not classed as a major road defect --so they don,t have to fix it If yuo look round and find a road that has not been resurfaced in 20years --then take not when it is redone --it will be crap in under 5 years

everything that has been said just highlights "project fear" which has been pushed by ALL the media have some faith it will be alright in the end

well if we believe some of what we have been told -there is no import duty to be added to most things from eu --so only the exchange rate will alter pricing and that will no doubt get better soon after things settle -- so not sure forward buying will work out any better--its a guessing game

auto bilge pump

or like me you try 5 times and the website crashes

"our money "# mine has been made by my labours serving the local community . and hence why s/e is so packed and rest of country gets sod all spent on it brexit will be be the best thing ever + kill HS2 while you are at it sorry my view is we need to be far more uk made first in our views -outside sourced has a tax on it Scotland --bragging about all the wind farms --yes but all made in EU--and profits going back there same as trams in edinburgh --german and they screwed council on price as well simple things like government contracts must be sourced in UK will do a lot to keep the money flowing we had the crazy situation where scottish parliament building used chinese granite --cos it was cheaper!! If you out source your own parliament building --thats very sad. so much for scottish independence!! no way that building will still be there in 400 years --should have been built from cut stone - and not look like some.thing a 10 year old would draw AND WHY DID WE NEED A SPANISH ARCITECT!!-- and what a great job he costed it at 40m --it cost 400m never made me any money --applies to s/e -not the whole country

I have yet to find a wheel barrow thats not been made for a dwarf--handles always too low --so you end up with too much of angle and front loop catchs on rough ground for me

looks good --only comment would be its not very compact +portable the first filter in the trend ,which is cloth bag just blows out or knocks out --paper filter never got bocked yet --same again blow out with air line or knock it on ground my brother -- being an idiot used it to suck up plaster dust -- that then set in cloth filter and required changing then - If he had emptied it whe he had finished quite sure the plaster would have blown out as well -- but a year later --no chance

thats what the machine is rated for --if you want to use at full rate then a 16 amp circuit --but i can say i have never had a problem using a big1/2" trend router and vac an 13amp fuse. it has a proper 2.5mm soft flex cable on it not the usual thin crappy thing