Mr Punter

I guess if it is fully fitted with trim panels and scribed end infills it is not double what you would pay. If you got it for £5k I think OK. Years ago I did kitchens. I would only go to see qualified leads and would never leave a plan or a price I would talk through what they wanted and their budget and if not realistic I would leave it at that. Showroom staff would give a price indication first.

Some of your costs will be fixed no matter how many storeys, such as site preparation, planning fees, utility connections, drainage, and landscaping. The 1.5 storey should be a little bit cheaper as there is less ground floor, foundation and roof per metre.

I think the Dewalt ones are pretty good. https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-acrylic-head-aerated-concrete-anchor-14-x-70mm-40-pack/233ht

I wonder if it can be put down to one-off madness? A house we did the customer noticed a small water mark on the ceiling after about 3 months. I got the roofers back. They unzipped the standing seam panels. No sign of damp. Insulation dry. Panels were zipped back on and 7 years later there have been no recurrences. I suspect it could have been some moisture in the structure that got in during construction and condensed out later.

Celotex CF5000 is no longer available post Grenfell. How about stonework, a 75mm cavity, filled with 75mm Dritherm, inner 7.3N Celcon blockwork, 50mm PIR joins taped, 25mm vertical battens for service void, 15mm plasterboard. Where you have heavy loads, fix 25mm x 150mm timbers. If your SAP person counts the 25mm as a low e gap, you should get a u value of 0.18 W/m².K.

Is it pumped from somewhere? Overflow from a soakaway or a well? All will be revealed when the builder returns...

It looks like a temporary setup. You need to make sure the permanent replacement is correctly specified and installed.

Yes you definitely need the setting tool with those anchors. Just tightening them and they will often spin and knacker the plasterboard.

We just used an end cap tile on the ridges to slightly overhang the verge.

Would he need a CO alarm to comply with building regs? He is not letting out.

Nice. I did not know there was a new version. Mine was from 2013! It make sense to have all the resi in 1 volume. Has much else changed?

I think some of you need to change your diet. It is only after I have eaten something that really disagrees with me that I would ever need an extractor in the WC. When it does happen, the extractor does not help. Only time can heal the harm.

I would prefer plasterboard. While your boy is skimming it he could go over the ceiling.

You have made the bedroom into an inner room with the only escape route through the living room. I am not sure if the window meet the regs. You no longer have a protected hallway, so there is only you front door between the the living room and the communal area. They will want the lobby protected with FD30 doors and the archway reinstated as a door. Having done works needing building regs, they can ask you to up the spec with mains heat and smoke alarms as they are the current regs. @DevilDamo surely it is ADB volume 2 that this needs to comply with? It is a flat, not a dwellinghouse.

And the grout looks really smart.

A friend of mine who does access control is red/green colour blind. I bet he would struggle to wire joth's cabinet. I find phone apps a real PITA. I have SONOS and by the time the app wakes up, wants updating, tries to scam me into new hardware etc I have raged and fallen asleep. I like the idea of home automation but it does seem to be a lot to do with lighting, which I have never found an issue. The cabinet is proper porn though.

If it is just a single storey garage, could you replace it with a car port?

Great job. If you were to price this to do for someone else, how much would you charge per metre?

Where we are , "they" is apparently the correct term to cause least offence.

What stuff have you automated and how do you operate it? Does the rest of the house look like somewhere a Bond villain could live?

Yes, you can drill your hole. To play safe, install a couple of vertical 38 x 89 studs in the wall under and ask the TF engineer to confirm this is acceptable. Be careful when you drill as the drill can jam without warning. Incidentally, with the two horizontal 89mm timbers, one is the top part of the timber framed panel and the other is a top plate to join all the panels together. They are not really regarded as structural beams. It is this large build up of horizontal timber that causes shrinkage in timber framed buildings, but it is the standard way of doing things.

I would coat the whole of the flank walls with Stormdry. Off topic, where were your stooled window cills from? From the photos they look well made.

Or you could just take a bit off the bottom of the doors that don't fit and with the front door you could leave the 1m area near the door for a mat well and just fit a low profile mat with a profile up to your floor.

Hi @Ronan 1 and welcome. There are a fair few from N. Ireland on here. What build method are you going for?

@MJNewton of this forum had similar issues and was persistent enough to get them resolved.