Patrick

@Ralph This is 100% true. And you're not really stuck between anybody. You just not gonna get anything. It's like buying timber and then complaining that it moves. That's what it does. It might not happen and if you're careful in your choice, your installation and do everything by the book, then most likely movement (in timber) won't be enough to recognize, but to get a guarantee that it won't happen? Forget about it. Same with oil canning. A lot you can do to prevent it. But if it happens, and you don't "like the look", nobody in this world going to compensate you for it.

You better do, Adolf ? In regards to the topic of housing in the UK. Here is something my small brain can understand : (careful, socialist propaganda)

Its an issue with metal roofs that can occur. Like people said before, it's an issue of tightening screws too much. So partly to do with the way you fix it . Also sheets can be designed wrong. Any straight metal sheet will have problems to compensate the stress of movements within. So the more profile it has, the better. We do not really sell any of these roofs without profile anymore for that reason. Can work with straight pieces, but the risk is oil canning appearing 2-3 years down the line.

Seriously. Building control officers are really poor bas***ds. Getting blamed for everything. Since Grenfell, they are so shit scared making a mistake that they just want reassurance for everything. Nothing to do with my built, but job wise, they now regularly asking for CRA with metal roofs. Condensation Risk Assessments. Afaic, very pointless and a waste of time. Every risk assessment will say :"yep, there is a risk" and than you take care of the risk. Had some BC officer wanting a fire safety certificate for metal roofs. I understand. There are situations when the metal roof is insulated with foam and might be a fire hazard, but pure metal? I wonder when the first BCO wants fires safety assessment for your bricks. Common sense is so far out the window nowadays.

@Russell griffiths Thought you wanted to go with EPS from up north. What company did you use for the PIR.

+1 on @Alex C We used piles. Cost around 15k. Quite normal for piles as far as I can see around the forum. @AnonymousBosch piles where exceptional cheap. But he used a different piling method than others. Not viable for everyone. Generally even though I wasn't able to use it due to Ground conditions, I would have preferred insulated raft. As always @Jeremy Harris blog is the place to look for details.

True. And for this to happen. We would need 3G as a standard first. So forget what I said with 7-15years. More like 70-100years.

True. But that depends on current prices. They might sink. As they did with double glazing, triple glazing, pv panels and loads other things. So might still be interesting in 7-15years. But currently def. A big extra cost for not much - 0 saving/benefits.

and? Walls are about 150mm-500mm.

True. It just popped up and I got pi**ed off with my fridge so didn't look into the date on it.

@Onoff We could swap. I've got a fridge. Spare one in the outside room used for drinks and bits... Problem is it started freezing in the last 2 months. Tried every setting possible and still not a change in sight. I don't know exact temperature but I know all my Beer was frozen and can t keep any liquids in there (apart from Vodka) It's a full size fridge. Would like it to be a fridge rather than a freezer.

? Quote from the BBA cert you quoted : "9 Condensation risk 9.1 In common with all metal roof constructions, there is a risk of condensation. This can arise as either interstitial condensation within the roof construction or surface condensation at thermal bridges." A breather membrane (a high quality one) is a kind of ventilation gap (for condensation purpose at least)

Metal roofs, wether standing seam or corrugated, all condensate. Unless they are fully insulated foam panels. They do all need an air gap behind them. As standing seam is a fairly flat sheet, this specially needs some kind of gap behind it. There are a few options, battens and counterbattens being one, a special, thick membrane that gives an airgap being another.

I just skimmed over this post again and couldn't find it (maybe blind) or it was in a different roof window topic, but someone on here came up with a great company that does rooflights apart from Velux and Fakro. If I remember correctly they where Polish as well. They had some amazing prizes for pretty low u value products. Can't seem to find the company name atm. Edit: found it again through Google it was @ProDave wwho bought some eco+ windows a few years back. Review of them was a bit mixed in his thread.

I can't comment on the quality of this one as I on purpose put a link from random ebay seller to not create a conflict of interest, but generally we use this kind of thing all the time on our roofs, corrugated and box profile, and it works perfect.

I will test it out. I went down the labour intensive route with every step so far. Some did save a bit of money, some came out the same price. All together still savings to be made. Unless you calculate your own work, but just look at everybody on this forum, houses wouldn't be built and budgets could have never been kept without the time and efforts you put into the building yourself. In case you haven't seen it yet, different topic discussions about the block and beam insulation

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Roof-Eaves-Comb-Filler-Bird-Stop-Fills-Gap-In-Tiles-/350456857361

@Moonshine I am doing Insulated block and beam and tried forever and a day to buy insulation only (the blocks that are "t-shaped" in order to fit them). Nobody is selling them on itself. Only the whole floor system, and then they have a markup on every item involved, which ends up approx 70-80% more expensive than a traditional block and beam with cheap insulation on top (what @Russell griffiths Is doing) Insulation is the most expensive bit in this calculation so it matters where you get it from. The companies that do the floorsystems (jet floor, beamshield, Tetris,...) Charge a premium on top of regular eps prices which isn't little. I didn't start yet, but I am thinking of doing exactly as you mentioned. Get the board cheap from either seconds and Co or from a eps supplier and cut them to size. Yes-I expect this to be labour intensive and certainly buying the ready floor is quicker. It s just a matter of how much you normally earn in your day job and if you rather make that money doing overtime or if you spend it on your house - it obviously makes no sense saving 1000£ on material and spending 5 days of work if you are an architect ? You rather work an hour to make that extra grand. I will keep you updated with the progress.

I think this how every good Buildhub story starts. ?? Welcome

I was looking into exactly the same but stayed away from it. 1. Woodfibre boards are expensive (blown in Woodfibre isn't, unless you buy it from an eco-merchant which will put 150% margin on top cause its eco) 2. Fixing them and then outside cladding is another step, extra work, extra trouble. I decided to rather increase the size of the walls and eliminate the thermal bridging (as far as reasonable) . can be done like @Jeremy Harris and others done, with MBC frame, who are using some sort of Larsen Truss, or others like@Simplysimon Using i-beams (me as well). There are a few advantages in the blown in insulation over rolls, boards or sheets Mentioned plenty of times: -it will get in every corner and have a tight fit. Too much of other types of insulation are down to your or the installers fitting skills. I believe the blown in is also a bit of a time saver as its quicker installed. Alternatively you could use spray foam and get the same pros than blown in insualtion, but for me it wasn't right as I don't trust the chemistry of it. It s not tested long enough for me to be sure that it's safe (somebody - asbestos?) I think if you have the space, straw insualtion could work excellent, and in case you got a sheep farm, wool works very well, but in all other cases there really is a strong argument for blown in insualtion.

Hemp is quite expensive AFAIK and not really the greatest insulation product. If you want something natural and organic it's probably better to use sheep wool. Loads on here, incl myself, are using blown in cellulose, alternatively blown in wood fibre. Both fairly good insulation, quite cheap, and low poisoning. I wanted something that apart from easy installation, price, also has little off gasping and is potentially the least poisonous

+

Tbh there are quite a few around as far as I can see. You not sticking out enough. Maybe put a few gold painted pillars next to the front drive to make it more obvious ? You got any plans that are prioritised which you want to start first?

OK. Just to make it less misterious for others, that s around Trowbridge end, closer to Somerset than to Swindon. @MatthewPikeGive me a shout if you need any bad advise or a shoulder to cry on ? Best of luck with any project you're planning.

In Wiltshire as well. Welcome. Which end?