Patrick

That's exactly the one. I thought there is a ready to use solution in order to pump in the bleach as @JSHarris Suggested. The DIY version includes a bit of fiddling around finding the right screwed fitting that will fit into the meter box opening.

At some point I will have to flush the old Mdpe pipework that is already in place. I had a few companies offering to do a chlorine flush of the old system to make it safe to use again. They all need access to both sides of the pipe, so would like me to dig out the pipe next to the mains stopcock on the street in order to flush the system. My mains meter box has a plastic blank cap where a meter can be - but currently isn't - installed. Am I right assuming that the cap can just be unscrewed and than that would be sufficient access to to roadside of the existing pipework, and where can I find a matching adapter that screws into the meter box blank cap and allows regular pipes to be connected to it. Had a look around but couldn't find anything that would fit this opening. Maybe some of you Plumbers on here know where to buy such an adaptor. Cheers

Been discussed plenty of times on the forum here. Building regs. Here's my experience : http://tintabernacle.blogspot.com/2019/10/building-regulations-plans-and-building.html?m=1 At the very beginning, around 3.5years ago, it wasn't clear to me at all what the difference between Planning Permission and Building Regulations are. I didn't understand why you need two different set of plans and what different professionals are involved and why. It took me around 2 years to find this forum and get all the answers I needed and took me another 1 year of reading to gain the knowledge to tackle a lot of things myself.

+1 on this one. I started the process completely unrealistic myself and thought I can do it easily for the kind of money you are talking about @RockandGrohl but soon realised that it was impossible. There are so many little bits and bobs that add up. 50£ here and 75£there and this a few times a week and you're quickly adding 1000s together. The only way of getting something for low money IMHO is to build small with the thought in mind of extending later. Maybe already have the foundations ready for the extension.... but a certain size footprint is just going to cost you x1000£ ++. There are many costing /"how much per sqm" topics on here. And hardly anyone manages less than 1000£. And look really carefully at the ones that do. They take a looooooong time or got loads of free help or skills themselves (or all of these together). really not being negative. I am young as well with young family and on a tight budget but reality was settling in eventually. So be very careful with your calculations and read a lot on this forum.

Lidl workwear. Can't be beaten. Hard wearing. Comfortable and at 15£-19£ a real bargain

Amazing @Onoff Exactly the explanation I needed. Even with photos, perfect for an illiterate like me. Thanks ?

Very old topic, I assume you ,@Triassic , are done with the installation by now? I have the exact same problem, scratching my head of how to put in waste pipes for downstairs bathtub and shower in the screed. Floor is Block and Beam with Insulation on top, than screed. This is the best method how to do it i have seen so far. Sinks are obviously less of a problem and even toilet is fairly ok to understand (lots of examples, quite a fw people have a downstairs loo_)

Nope. The sewer is around 40-50cm from the watercourse, so can't put a manhole outside the building. Will have to do something similar to drawing 2.

I understood your shit exploding hint. @Russell griffiths @Declan52 I understand the issue. But question remains. Can I have the pipes underneath the Foundation. If the solution is to put ab access /rodding point to the other side of the house and extend pipework to there, then this might be a decent option. Better than installing a full manhole. Or do I still not get this right?

OK. This wasn t right, I see. But the principle of having plumbing underneath the Foundation with the connection to the main sewer being under the Foundation as well is completely unacceptable? Or just uncommon and doable?

Building Control had a look into our Sewer connection plan(see below) and send me some technical guidance for Y-connections under buildings: The informal advise from some of the Wessex Water guys that came to my site was :" just plug it back into the old system where it was connected before , and it ll be alright" To explain> there has been a building before in place and this has been connected to the sewer line running underneath it . So I just thought to connect it back into this exisitng connection again. This obviously potentially brings problems with blocked pipes. The way to avoid this would be to have a Access chamber and a rodding access to each side of the building, which in my case is not possible as the main sewer runs UNDERNEATH the building (I have permission to build over sewer by water supplier in case someone asks) So the method I see to follow the above Guidelines, is to not connect via the existing connection underneath the house but to connect via new Access chamber outside , roughly like this: Or is there an option to save the trouble and still connect to the sewer via the existing connection (underneath the house) , maybe with a rodding access in the house or just outside the house . Would prefer this, but obviously dont want to create problems later on ( under slab plumbing always seems a bit risky)

@Cpd I have board on board and agree with you, might not follow that request than. ?

That's my point. It seems overkill. but importantly, how long did that take you?

Apologies if that has been answered before, but Buildoing Control would like to see our Cladding put up with battens detailed to those Standards: https://www.tdca.org.uk/timber-cladding/cladding-design-detail/vertical-cladding-new-buildings/ which is the latest standard according to the UK Timber&Decking Association. It perfectly makes sense , as it helps the battens drying quicker from any water getting behind the Cladding. Problem is that those Battens are not standard. They are not for sale as a standard product everywhere. I couldnt find them anywhere online. This doesnt mean that they are not available, but it certanly means that they will be a fair bit more expensive than standard timber battens, wether they are bought with that 15˚ cut or I m buying standard and cutting each batten by hand. Generally speaking , I see this as a recommandation, not a regulation. Or did I miss anything in the Building Code? How did you handle those?

There is a metal deck system that can provide you the base for a first floor concrete pour (https://www.cdi-icm.co.uk/systems/) I guess other companies do similar stuff. They do a suspended foundation system as well. But this was too expensive for my taste. Still a good system IMHO.

Give over. We all know you gonna have excellent base materials AND a wall hung toilet ? To topic: SIGA=Worldclass materials

Thanks @JSHarris. Simply worded and understandable.

Before this argument goes on, about wether or not it is difficult or easy to do the calcs yourself and wether or not that brings back problems later on , out of interest and without having read anything available just yet, what exactly stopped you from doing the later "as is" calculations yourself @JSHarris? Why is it that you need to engage with a conultant at a later stage? Probably a sign off is needed?

@LA3222 Didn't mean to offend you. I appreciate that there are two views on pretty much everything. All I meant to say is that there is not necessarily one that is right, and like many others said on here, it depends on the situation and each individual adult to evaluate when it's worth it to take the DIY approach. What might be right for me, might be completely wrong for others. I just have the opinion that a lot of the admin/desctop/computer/design work is easy to learn and that many doing this professionally are massively overpaid as the skills involved in their jobs (I'm talking specific the skills for smaller residential buildings, not that people haven't got vastly more knowledge than me in other topics) are easy to aquire. That's why I'm pushing for doing everything myself /yourself /oneself. But that's just my OPINION. might not work for the next man/woman and in other parts of the more hands on side of things I learned a bit of a lesson (see the Tree cutting exercise) in regards to the value of professionals.

I think everyone should be treated as adults here, so giving advise doesn't eliminate using ones own brain (does this advise apply to me). The PURPOSE of THIS THREAD was To find alternative programmes for SAP calculation for anyone interested to do it him/herself. Your advise of hiring professionals instead of saving "a few 100£" applies to pretty much everything in life. do you get your brake pads changed at the garage or do you do it yourself. Do you buy package holiday or do you organise every step yourself...... It is a matter of opinion when it s worth it to hire professionals and when you should (can get away with) do it yourself. I'm on Jeremy's side with doing as much as possible myself. You think it is better to have professionals doing jobs for you. None of these opinions are "the truth", so being careful voicing an opinion seems a silly advice.

Couldn't agree more. Although I must admit, I am tight as well. But in my (young) age, there are a lot of advantages in learning all the bits involved myself, not just money wise. You never know when you need it later In life. For the rest of you here on Buildhub it might be different, as you more running out of time than having to worry about later in (after) life ??

Hi @JSHarris Thanks for the effort. I couldn't wait and just sat on the misses windows pc(? Got the Stroma free version going. Took me 25min to get th hang of it and another 45 to punch in all the data. Got all the results out and saved another 200-600£(depending on who you ask). Works amazing. Just Windows gave me cold showers. How can people work with that? ?

Read the very usefull hint from @JSHarris to use STROMA software to do the SAP calculations for the Building Regs myself. Unfortunatley STROMA doesnt run on IOS and I really cant deal with using ParallelsDesktop,(might need to as a last option, but before that:... ) Anybody has a good option to do the SAP calculations on a Macbook?

@colin7777 +1 for doing the Building Regs yourself . I would retrospectively do this and didnt find the 739 amendments I have done myself to the (rubbish) plans submitted by my architect too difficult. Fair bit of reading and time consuming , yes, but not difficult. Different Topic: I watched this verbal battle between @Sensus and @JSHarris over the last weeks in all the topics when they clash, and their opinions always seem to clash. For the Forum s entertainment, I would like to suggest a fair match of Chessboxing between the 2 of you. On Neutral Grounds somewhere in Birmingham . ?

OK. Thanks @ProDave That makes sense. The unvented in the attic I probably a bit of a pain to work on but would probably be sensible to do.