jack

Thanks all. Quite a bit to digest there.

Hi I have Fermacell lining my plant room and garage. We weren't able to get hold of the special glue used between the boards in time to use it for the initial installation, so left a gap with the intention of back-filling it with Fermacell Jointing Compound. This is a resin-based plaster filler that is, presumably, stronger than standard plasterboard fillers. I'm having a devil of a time getting hold of this stuff at the moment. I'm now at the point where I'm considering using a standard plasterboard filler. I appreciate that the strength won't be as high as with the correct stuff, but these aren't mission critical areas, so I doubt that'll be an issue. Any thoughts about whether there are any issues using plasterboard jointing compounds with Fermacell? Assuming not, any suggestions about which jointing compound (or other product) to use to minimise the chance of cracking? Thanks as always.

I'm on Three. No problems at all with coverage in London, Surrey and Hampshire. If anything, I get better coverage than I did on Vodafone.

Hugely useful info for others thinking of doing the same. Thanks for sharing!

I used to watch a few of this guy's vids, until he came out as a full-on pro-Trump nutjob. Lost the taste for it after that.

Yes, ours is the only unpainted room in the house!

Lovely work!

We used Fermacell in our plant room. Brilliant stuff for durability and mounting things to. I'm sure it's better than the same thickness of plasterboard for reducing sound transmission, but suspect it works better for airborne noise than for preventing noise from vibration caused by things mounted to it. Our Immersun unit, for example, buzzes under load, and that sound is transmitted quite effectively through the wall. I'll be mounting it on something more resilient in an effort to reduce this.

Ours is spaced off the wall (house is 18 months old), but I don't know whether SSE or the electrician installed it.

SSE was happy to mount our internal meter on chipboard (not 22mm - more like 10 or 12, I think).

According to my electrician, that was exactly the reason. He thinks most electricians are cowboys.

Ooh, I like how this is going. Don't leave us hanging too long!

Pics, pics, pics please!

Well that's clearly false. It's "literally" possible that an error was made with a return and the goods ended up with you. Still, thanks for initial story and for following up with the results. Hopefully others will see it and think twice (or at least check their packages sooner) when considering ordering from Wunda. I won't go off-topic and bore you with the similar issue I had with the UVC I had from McDonald Engineering...

Our ASHP is on the far side of our garage from the house, so it'd be pretty hard to hear even if it did make noise. However, if I stand beside it in heating mode (ie, not on full blast for DHW), I have to hold my hand in front of the fan to determine whether it's actually on. I don't know how much noise it makes when it's doing DHW, as I'm not generally up at the time it's on (4-6am). As Dave said above, if you have a well-insulated house and triple glazing, you won't hear it anyway. We have a train line that runs quite close to our garden and you can only barely hear that a train is passing when it's very quiet and you listen for it. If a window is open it can be quite loud!

Erm, yes you do, because your employer (or the entity to which/whom you're contracted) has agreed in writing to "do" Durisol. Quite aside from anything else, why would any builder, irrespective of knowledge or experience with particular building systems, want to do anything less than the right job? Following a line is a fairly fundamental part of building, whether you're laying blockwork, building a stud wall or slating a roof! Looking back at this from a few months or years in the future, the loss of time and funds will pale beside the feeling of relief that your house wasn't ultimately built by these neanderthals.

"A coward dies a thousand times before his death, but the valiant taste of death but once." - Ernest Hemingway I prefer your version - discretion is the better part of valour, etc.

I found some galvanised conduit behind a rendered wall once, long before I knew about safe zones. I'm pleased it was there, because if it hadn't been I'd have gone straight through the wire!

If you were expecting 10mm off the top, does only having had a couple of mm off make an important difference to your floor heights? None of our external doors would have opened if our floor had ended up 7mm higher than planned!

Bollocks. Really sorry to hear that Ian. Keep your pecker up - we're rooting for you.

Bit big isn't it? I think a room-in-roof cottage would have been more appropriate.

Welcome to the forum Ticking all the boxes will tend to bring competition, for sure! Almost certainly more trouble than it's worth, I'd have thought, even assuming the foundations are (and can be proved to be) of acceptable depth etc. It also severely limits the flexibility you have with your footprint. I assume you've looked into it, but knocking down tends to be competitive with massively renovating due to the VAT relief you get on a knock-down.

Same. We used our tiler's account at Topps Tiles and the price dropped 60-odd percent

Our taps are set at the entrance to the shower, away from where the spray lands, so you can turn it on without getting your arm wet.

I think the general (not universal) level of incompetence is what people are referring to when they complain about window companies. It's a fact that a significant proportion of people on this forum have had poor experiences with window suppliers, and it's rarely due to something that would have been picked up by the sorts of checks you're talking about.