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You will need site insurance regardless of what your builder has which will cover someone walking into the site and being injured or worse and will cover your building for vandalism or fire damage Your builders policy won’t cover either If your mortgage lender is happy with an architect cert and your not thinking of selling then go with that Quite a few mortgage lenders won’t accept an Architect cert HSBC being one Even with an architect cert or a warranty You will still need BC to sign the property of You can use private or local authority

They where quite clear with us No heavy machinery While they where fine with us cutting down more than 20 trees and stripping a slate roof off a building to be demolished We need to remove two trees at the front for vehicle access They point blank refused It’s worth applying for your Cil as soon as you complete your purchase Ours took seven days to come through

Our son raped he’s Even the fridge Took him two evenings

Looking through some of the back posts will give you an idea of build costs Land is normally kept separate as land costs can often vary wildly

Mark out where your duds going in pencil Which you would do if you where screwing the soleplate gown Then run round a couple of times with a 100 mil brush An hour later stick them down I do loads like this When the floors have pipework under them

You will need the invoices Perhaps worth opening a cash account the merchant he uses So you can be billed direct

I’ve installed 30 sash windows in our build We went for the best acoustic that we could find Which isn’t that good compared to a much cheaper standard rubber sealed window frame The design doesn’t lend itself to good airtightness If you can talk the planners out of sash it would be a better option We couldn’t

As above Seal for dust and simply bond the sole plates down I normally use Sika-Flex Bond them down a leave overnight

It would be quite difficult not to damage the brick If the render is original the bricks underneath may not match the facing bricks

I would just bleach them Then give them a coat of oil based undercoat It does look like condensation

Roll a length of dpc out You can either get drill and plug your sol plate or shoe cute Mf framing to the slab I normally cut some 15 mil rips of ply for around the edge of the studs 25 mil more than the depth of your insulation x screed

I used Acor the resin type around a fiver per mtr St them in concrete five mill bellow your paving and forget about them

As a tiling contractor it would set alarm bells ringing But with a timber floor I wouldn’t give it a second thought Yours does look really good

The problem with any wood is it will swell and shrink Im not sure that you can prevent this I’ve previously stated that I renovated two barns for Two joiners supposed forever homes Both asked me to tile the downstairs siting the same problems that your having They fit these floors for a living

That sounds similar to us We are at 18 throughout The factory setting is 22 which was to warm Before I tiled the ground floor I increased a degree each day with rooms tempts at 33 for one week in June Surprising how much the screed shrank

What temperature are your room stats set at

I used a steel hit and miss above mine for that very reason Great to fix to also Our SE stated he would never span an opening larger than 2000 with a catnic and with the low price of steel He has a point

I allowed 5 mil either side and used fixing straps

Miles away Most people don’t care about energy rating when purchasing a new house Our Daughter is purchasing her second home with her partner I receive messages every evening About bedroom sizes amount of parking Size of garden PRICE Not a thing about solar gain Energy efficiency While both are professionals If I asked either about Sap reports I don’t think they would know what one is Let alone care I would rate her and her partner as pretty typical home buyers Unfortunately any changes or improvements will have to be forced on builders - Sellers By central government

Top will be garden drainage The rigid lengths are often used on site to push services through when crossing a site road

Hire a breaker it is then

I removed half a dozen at our old house before we moved If the stump that is left is still relatively sound drill a 25 mil hole about 200 up Nock a long chisel through Then simply jack it up a bit at a time on either side It left the concrete in But I just moved the posts up

While the U value is important Its easy to get obsessed with numbers Whilst ours isnt passive we achieved a good U value A large very warm and cheap to heat house All done DIY Worth twice the build cost Including the land purchase I think it’s important that you finish up with a home that suits your needs and budget and also looks good

He’s quiet at the moment Fixing mdf arch’s and skirting on a local site