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It would be a lot neater and easer to finish and paint if you tacked a skim stop on the PB face butted against the window frame

Absolutely Get it submitted As you say something else ticked off It normally comes through quite quickly

Always walls first Ian You what I’m going to say next Expansion gap around the edge 5 mil left clear of grout Fill with silicon

We have recently done and had ours paid in full We just followed the forum guide Perhaps one of the mods will point you in the right direction

Lancashire brick are one of the cheapest but as Ian says location is key

There are plenty of ways to clad insulate All be it expensive ones My concern would be the foundation depths for such a heavy structure and widow and door openings I can’t see how this would work out cheaper than using concrete block and insulating At around 20m2

I’m looking at some while I’m sat having five minutes after my daily one hour drive There used quite a lot for retaining walls and keeping gypsies out I cat seen any advantage in using them to build a house ICF a better option

I used water levels on a daily basis for setting out ceiling perimeter and a string line for the hangers Apart from being slow It’s now outdated It’s true that most of the cheap lasers are not that accurate and of no use for setting out foundations You can hire a really green laser kit on a daily basis for not a lot of money That you can set your foundations out in a day and if you set internal datums when the structure is up Floor screeds door heads etc can all be measured off these

Ha ha Ian Once the walls are plastered you won’t see them Any imperfections on the screed will cover when your floor covering goes down If you employ a messy plasterer He will fil them in for free

Exactly I just can’t get my head around everyone wanting to fill gaps around floor weather it is timber or screed

I’m not a plumber but I’ve the next size down greenstar and used a Gledhill 250L tank We are heating 150 m2 UFH Tsds to five beds 3 baths

I looked at both and while self build plant insurance covered absolutely everything brought onto the plot It was cheaper to insure a couple of items separately

What you say is pretty much all you can do Unpack the flooring and leave it where it’s going to be laid for week if possible As long as the place isn’t damp you should be ok If you employed a company to supply and lay They would more likely turn up with it in there van Or drop off a couple of days before and do what you are doing

I think that’s what I said originally Min 10 mil 3 is ridiculous You would leave 8 mil for a cheap laminate floor I leave 10 mil around the perimeter of a tiled floor onto a solid floor Timber will move

It’s immaterial weather we think we should leave a gap or not or fill it over leave BC will pick up lack of a continuous gap When we sound coat mainly housing association properties We have to do careful not to bridge this gap If you are worried about airtightness seal the floor to the skirting But where is the air going to go ? All should ha already been sealed between the floor and ceiling

Just starting to type the same Russ Well nearly Your starting to make me look tactful Russ

It depends what you call large Weve just finished a car showroom 423m2 They where 1200 x 800 22 mil thick To heavy for one man to lay and cut Tilers rarely have a labourer So you are paying one skilled man just to be another pair of hands I was paid £40 for labourer including Sealing and matting The builder ground bad areas of the floor and self levelled others I paid out £5M2 matting and £22 for laying including Quite.a complicated boarder Which I set out now perhaps more relevant to you Same job would be £5 matting £18 for laying My price £33 Two men cutting and laying will complete almost twice as quick as above The top job took them 13 days With two half days from me The client was happy I made a bit and so did they Im not the cheapest Also not the most expensive Hope this helps give you a guide

I run a tiling business I tend to be around 25 to 40 for the heavy tiles I’ve to pay a ruler out of that and wait 60 days to be paid Most tilers will complete 15 20 m2 per day on large uncomplicated areas

The floor size does make any difference Even the mass produced house builders are keen to make sure a continuous gap is there prior to pre plaster Usually someone going round clearing mortar out of the gap On TF party walls the gaps are usually 40 mil Plank and boards on spats to save them getting trapped

No nothing Leave the gap totally open 10 mil should be a minimum I used an off cut of floor board as a packer 22mil Often on-site we screw packers to the floor to stop the D&D falling through The ceiling below should be airtightness and the D&B above should also be airtight So sealing the edge would have no benefit

10 mill gap Don’t fill the gap BC are pretty keen on that If it’s not clear all the floor noise will transfer to the walls

Try taking a board out that has been glued Solid job I used 3x1 under the joists to board onto and prevent any squeaks

I used 22 on i joists Loads of glue on the joists and edges of each board Then 60 mil ring nails fix with a gun

We didn’t put MVHR for this reason A friend advised that while his is good a neighbour is always burning and has to switch his off He’s also a vegi and recons in summer he can almost taste it Not sure how true the last one is We plan to build another house I decided I will put MVRH in and see how it goes

Yeah that’s terrible Even a turn key build would have struggled under those conditions