Pete

Thanks chaps

One to the other!! Half tempted to try without the washer.

No, I put a washer and some thread sealant. It attaches to the back of a geberit toilet isolation valve and it is flat.

Just connecting hep2o fitting and just wondering if it needs a washer in the bottom? It does not come with a washer and the bottom seems tapered so I guess not but just thought i would ask anyway. TIA

We went on holiday to Egypt quite a few years ago and my daughter (her bathroom) left a tap just slightly open causing a drip and when we came home the 40mm pipe was completely frozen, it had frozen to -10 while we were away though!

+1. It is what I do and it looks really smart and looks right!

Left this a bit late and BPC shut for the day. I need to build my external block wall tomorrow on the exterior of the timber frame. I will have to put 3 pipes in the wall to take the flow/return and power for the ASHP so I can seal them from the outside to the frame. I am proposing to use 50mm pipe for the wet pipes to leave enough room to insulate round the pipes afterwards (Passive) and 20mm duct for the power, does this sound ok or would people use smaller pipes? Do not know make of ASHP yet so do not know if I will need 28mm or 22mm pipes. How close can the ASHP be sited next to MVHR vents? I have a low level vent, approx 500mm off the floor and one at 2.2m and they are 1.5m apart and cannot anywhere else. TIA

How did you get on with contacting Vent Axia as we are going to purchase our MVHR unit soon and not sure I want one of these unless your siting of the unit had so.ething to do with the mould build up. TIA

8 x 2 strings and 6 x 2 steps. Bought materials, £60, took me and my son an hour to knock up and has been up in place for the entire build. Even took the weight of two of us and my bath (bloody heavy) going up it. Not worth wasting money and effort sourcing one when you can build it for that price IMO

I just did my drive in 20mm limestone. The pavement is approx 2m across and I never have any stone getting onto the pavement. I made sure we had a good 40mm step in the pavement edging which would contain the stone and then wackered it all down

Found this on our land when working one day. Originally it was paved over to create an area to operate the hand pump of which you can see the wall attachment in the last photo. After quite a bit of uncovering the paving (soil and debris) I realised I was standing on top of a large hole!! The suction tube was still in the hole and I managed to get it out by lifting and wedging in the wall as I withdrew it. I have now continued the wall up and will fit this piece of metal grid when I have shaped it. It is a lovely thing and is about 6/7 metres deep.

Do not worry, it is normal for self builders, WE worry about everything especially if you doing most of the work ourselves!!

I got my wife to lift them up when we extended a previous house (bungalow). She was up and down the ladder and I stacked them. Her mum showed up whilst doing this and was not happy, the reason, she was 6 months pregnant at the time.

You have just reminded me of our architects **** up. We had the exterior drawings for quite some time and the internal measurements and I noticed there was no shadow on the cantilevered vertical section which equated to 300mm of floor space which the architect had missed completely. It was sorted before the timber frame was made thank God!

On my way!

Try moving 100 ton of limestone, digging out water feature and landscaping under some trees, getting to old for this, o and sorting two great piles of rubble/soil to use under water feature before MOT goes down.

I had the timber frame company do the Passive slab so everything fitted but that did not stop me from checking everything. When I told them that one of the drains was outside the wall ( the lower roof has two vertical down pipes hidden inside two columns so they cannot be seen from the outside so had to be bang on) the guy was convinced and checked it again and said it was fine. Numerous discussions later I told him to move it and I would stand the cost of altering it if I was wrong, which I wasn't. I think a lot of self builders know their house back to front and inside out which can be a bit problematic with some builders but we are a different breed I think. Be vigilant is allied can say!

I have used resistant board on my cantilevered section of house and the vertical walls also

That's not a stone, this is!

We to have a 100mm perforated land drain connected to it's own 1m3 soakaway. I actually think mine is a waste of time as the ground is so free draining the pipe does not do a great deal.

One more question, if I have PV panels on my garage (detached) roof and the inverter inside the garage how does the mains board know if the electricity supply is coming from my PV or national grid? Mains supply comes into the house and garage fed from their. TIA

Have done most things but never fitted electric sliding gates. Just trying to decide with how much I still have to do whether to get a company in or have a go myself. I realise I can only claim the gate and not the electric sliding part as it was part of the PP. I will be putting the ducting in for the elec/data cable this week so apart from digging a trench, rebar and concrete there cannot be much to it can there? ( I am to busy to build my own gates @Onoff)

https://www.bpcventilation.com/quiet-vent-comfort-cooler Has anybody had any experience of this product from BPC ? TIA

We have the fastest draining land in the West so no problem

Just finished my drains, I have put in 60 l/m of 110mm pipe, 2 x 460 i/c and used 5 c/m of pipe bedding. I was expecting to have quite a bit of spoil to get rid of and it has all gone back in including quite a lot of large stones etc from the house build. Made my day and as a self builder you need days like this, eh Ian? @AnonymousBosch