MikeSharp01

There is also a possible wrinkle to watch out for as the charge sense circuit may be devised so as to not sense the presence of the battery if the battery is in the charger when it is first turned on. My Dewalt multi charger has this problem (Which might be a design feature I suppose) - if the battery is in the charger when you plug it in / turn it on it never charges the battery, take the battery out and pop it in again and it does its job perfectly.

This effectively makes the visible beam part of the decoration as a false beam, as seen often in 1960s Jacobean cottages, and is not subject directly to fire regs - unless you are building an HMO, so just finish the ceiling as you had already agreed with BC and then fit the false beam. Job looks good by the way,

I have no intention of installing any gas stuff myself, I appreciate the risks, so will have it done by a GS person. Although I have to say the new Sunamp box of tricks might make the whole plan for a Combi to supply DHW redundant.

That cannot be the whole picture. What would the situation be if both my wife and I did the install would that make it legal for us both to live there? If so then all one would need to do is invite all the people on face book to 'help" with the install and anybody can live there.?

Structuraly you need to take the new end load of those beams down to the ground somehow as the ceiling joists for downstairs run the wrong way you will have to be creative by spanning the downstairs walls to front to back and double (at least) up the ceiling joists to provide that support. However you ho you need a structural engineer to sign off on it as BC won't accept it otherwise.

Evostick (other contact adhesives are available) its slightly flexible and can be applied very evenly so no lumps.

DoeS that mean you have to use the whole length cos if you cut it then that's all pressure gone.

Hire one is an option.

I have a Leica - this one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/leica-rugby-610-self-levelling-rotary-laser-level/3417G?kpid=3417G&ds_kid=92700022885079543&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249484&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3d7W0d6p3QIVB5ztCh1jpwYXEAQYASABEgKOOfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJWisNzeqd0CFdiPGwod7vQE-Q but I paid a lot less than this price and I got the +/- 50mm reciever. It's great it works in the rain and the brightest sunlight the only thing to watch out for is reflections off glass as you can get some very weird readings.

As I mentioned before 'start' can be triggered by local authority internal processes. In our case this happened because we went for a demolition order which the planning department picked up in the weekly list and flagged our build as started. To be fair they switched it off again when I challenged it but in a council with a CIL who knows what would happen.

192 bit encryption oh er!

If you have, or access to, the deeds you can use the approach @billt suggests LR are very helpful and doing yourself is simple. Without the deeds the process is much more complex and you may need professional help but it is still possible.

For me the key is the ecology of timber frame over masonry builds which also impact the foundation design and the way that things like air tightness and insulation can be deployed to ensure an energy efficient building.

Welcome, sounds exciting, look forward to hearing more.

ALT/CTL/PRINT SCRN (Just grabs the current window) and I then paste it into powerpoint (other packages EG photoshop are available) for shaping and any commenting needed then I save it as a JPG or anything else.

Thanks all, great ideas, will look at all the solutions and decide what is best for me.

Not even sure it has to be mounted on a vertical axis, only going on what the chap said this morning and awaiting some real results is something of a must. However we might conjecture given that they envisaged its max size as about 1-2m in diameter . If it is a sphere, and that is essentially what it looks like, and has an axis (which I guess it must) then the stresses will go into the bearings to support it and the structure of the sphere itself in terms of the resultant centripetal forces trying to tare it apart, given its max envisaged size I don't see an upper wind speed limit being in there because it cannot physically furl so only breaking will do it and its 'windage' (for want of a better word) stationary and rotating will perhaps be approximately the same, while their turbine is much smaller than other things in the environment that successfully stand in any presented wind across the planet. However Betz may well apply as it approaches a different aspect of the operation.

Trying to be my usual efficient self, not always a good idea, I have been working out how much floor boarding I need and laying delivery out against the build sequence and I think I have hit a snag. I need to board out the first floor, largely, to put the ridge beam elements in place so it will be open to the elements until the rafters & sarking are up. Have just tried to find floor boarding I can leave out in all weathers and the best they can do is 'water resistant' just how resistant is that then? I might be able to cover it but there is no way it won't get wet! Is there an alternative I can use, I don't want to OSB it if I can avoid it as that will be wasteful. Any thoughts.

That was one of the design considerations - as in it never needs to furl, one of the designers (inventors) was on R4 Today this morning and he mentioned that it can work in very high winds so keeps on generating even though the more traditional turbines have had to shut down.

Yes and no - the idea looks like it was to accept wind from any direction including up and down so if you put it on the side of a tall building it can operate in the updraft. Their Ptypes are 3D printed which means they can have air passages of all shapes and forms inside.

Can you get underfloor heating (UFH) into the floor as then an Air Source Heat Pump (ASHP) might be a way forward on the electric side and you could use Economy 7 electricity to warm the slab overnight and supplement with PV during the day. Do you think you will let it out throughout the year or just in the holiday seasons?

Now if I recall my chemistry then it (Calcium Carbonate) reacts with loads of stuff which is why having it about might be seen as a problem, and if you use too much limescale cleaner you can get some interesting effects. We did our downstairs wet room at millstone manor 15 years ago with it on the walls as large honed tile and on the floor as rough mosaic and they both still look great I think mainly because cleaning it is so easy, just take the shower head out of its holder and spray the room with it - I also do the WC and the sink at the same time, avoiding the ceiling light fittings of course, and then wipe it off, great.

There might be a wrinkle here if you do do it and, although a vanishingly small possibility, it subsequently turns out to be wrong or misleading, perhaps not providing a strong enough warning about the need to upgrade for instance, then as the seller you might be in line for a fraud charge because you benefited from the sale and this sale relied on information you provided. I suspect this is very unlikely unless something serious goes wrong.

Sadly they don't make it in the thickness I require (15mm). You would think so but the scuttlebutt is that it occasionally has porous sections which would be solved by a coating - which is, I believe, what smartply does - well they talk about a coating doing the vapour control in their propassiv technical data sheet.

Our structural engineer is insisting on me skinning both sides of our lateral walls with OSB for racking strength. It struck me that if I could make the OSB on the inside air tight I would not need to cover it with a membrane. The challenge is making OSB air tight and I wonder if just painting it, either flat before installing it or once installed, with a thick PVA mix, or some such, would do the job. Any thoughts?