HughF

You need load compensation, to reduce the flow temperature before you hit the room setpoint temperature. Reducing overshoot and minimising cycling as you approach the target temperature. That typically requires a boiler with a very wide modulation range, or at least one that isn’t massively oversized.

I don’t think so, I think it was a smaller one. Probably the same pcb inside though.

I’d have just gone ahead and installed whatever you wanted…. And wouldn’t have bothered with the planning part. Just say it’s an air conditioner if asked. Gets around the planning and dno connect & notify rules.

I would assume that LG, like all good heatpump manufacturers, use a PWM controlled primary pump so they have control over the delta-T. So there should be no need to check what speed it is running at.

We need more information on how this is installed. Any hydraulic separation, is the primary pump under PWM control, is the samsung controller the only controller in the system, and it is installed in the living space? Please post photos.

Well there’s your scop problem. Inefficiency caused by the plate heat exchanger after the indoor unit. Get Brendon to re-plumb it and get it running on the daikin controller only (no external stats) and you should see a marked improvement in efficiency.

If you get in touch with Brendon Uys of Heacol (Google will help you find his details), he has just removed a kingspan aeromax that had hydronic failure. Apparently the electronics were ok. Might be of use.

When was the last time you changed the thermostat in your car?

You need to re-enable weather comp really, especially now the cold snap has passed. 43 could easily be too hot for the current climatic conditions.

What make and model of Ashp, and how is it installed/controlled? This could just as easily be a controls/installation problem instead of a heat loss problem.

Not surprising, their instructions are targeted to the lowest common denominator so any halfwit can fit one.

If it’s a freedom heatpumps install, it will use a filter ball instead of a maganaclean or similar. Plenty of information from Graham hendra on YouTube on how to clean these.

Absolutely not…. I build stuff like this all day at work and we’d never consider measuring the current through the coil of a relay. It would just be a mosfet that drives the coil.

Don't fit a buffer, it's only there to provide a defrost volume to draw heat from. They sap efficiency and mean you end up with a fixed speed secondary pump. Go direct, much better.

Encouraging to hear that the outlier that no-one seems to buy is doing well. Can't wait to get mine installed when we crack on with our build next spring.

I'd buy some PCB mount 1/4" tabs, whip the relay out and make up some fly-leads...

It's all about flow temp and rad sizing, always.... Take a look at Glyn Hudson's performance data from this cold snap, rads sized for 35 deg flow: http://emoncms.org/samsung5kw/app/view?name=Samsung5kWASHP Consistent COP above 3... The cowboys who did your system design just go to show how incompetent most people in this industry are. I could do a better job from my armchair having watched some youtube...

I've used the blachotrapez system that I bought from @Patrick of Pagurek UK - an excellent system, really nice to work with.

Surprise surprise, a window installation company have done a mediocre job.... Hack the reveals off, see what's underneath...

20kWh/day with that m2 of floorspace, bargain....

You should be able to change the ceiling insulation level…. As for the other questions, I can’t answer. It’s just important that you’ve run the numbers through both systems. There are hundreds of systems installed off the back of the Freedom spreadsheet, and there are no doubt hundreds of systems installed by Midsummer Wholesale off the back of Heatpunk calculations.

The panasonic heatpumps are incredibly efficient when properly installed and the supplied controller is used as the room thermostat. The man to talk to is Brendon Uys from Heacol Ltd. He's a panasonic expert. But to cut to the chase, yes, this controller should be in the middle of your house where it can properly sense the internal temperature.

Yes. I had a quick look and couldn’t see why the graph was not drawing. I changed the occupancy figures for the hot water tank to something more reasonable (250ltr, 4 persons) and that fixed the dhw requirement being low. I would cross check the heat loss with heatpunk (I know it’s more work, but you need to get this right) and then move on to how you’re going to find a machine that will work for you in your physical location. I know you’re looking into the options for that.

That’s pretty shocking COP from something as fancy as a Daikin. I’d expect better. Here’s a 5kW Samsung gen6 running with a pwm primary pump and the Samsung controller as the room temperature controller. Fantastic COP given the current weather. http://emoncms.org/samsung5kw It’s Glyn Hudson’s DIY install in north wales.

I follow GH on LinkedIn, he blogged about this a few weeks back. Not ideal numbers but good enough to stop people calling up the support number and complaining.