HughF

I hate to say it, but the retrofit UPVC market is full of people who failed at any other trade. My windows also have 1" gaps all round, no cavity closers and no foam - just like yours. You need to fix this yourself.

Hahahahah, what a complete clown. He can't even string a sentence together properly.

Why do you need to factor in hot water to the kitchen? Dishwashers and washing machines are all cold fill these days... And who the heck washes up by hand?

The 90 degree elbows for the insulated twin stuff are not cheap... Something to bear in mind.

25mm wall insulation on standard 28mm hep, inside 110 ducting? That's certainly tempting compared to the insulated twin I was looking at, from a £££ perspective. Were you concerned about heat loss?

An interesting topic and something that I'm also looking into as we start on our rear extension, into which I don't want to add trickle vented windows. There is a lot of product on the market now, and it's hard to figure out the best option.

That's three phase, hence the 220/380 and the three brown wires issue. Stick it on a VFD and use that for the controls.

A quick site visit yesterday morning prior to commencing works in early June, we’re going to rip it out and install fresh…

Pretty sure I do, yeah. HP is miles away in the garden on 32mm mlcp. Might as well size it for maximum flow rate.

Interesting... glad I wasn't the only one to think of this idea. I've got a UVC, it was much cheaper and less complicated.

The more I think about routing the 28mm coppers in and around my place to get the ASHP installed, along with the space taken in the cylinder cupboard, the easier I think it would be to just have a 3/8 and 1/4 F-gas pipe to route to a small box in the cylinder cupboard. Pressure test, vac down, gas up... Simple.

I had a genius idea the other day, what the industry needs is an f-gas charged sunamp that can be connected to a multi head mini split system. Even better if it was installed as part of a heat recovery vrf system. I’m going to annoy them at the installer show and tell them they should make one, stop messing about with all this hot water rubbish. 🤣

I have the exact same problem when running inductive loads (inverter charger doing a battery charge) on my generator, as you have found out, it’s down to the LED drivers in the bulbs.

Some exhaust air hot water cylinders are available that will also supply a heating circuit, although they are usually only 3.5-5kW to the heating side. I wouldn’t fit one though. Too new and unknown. Stick with a standard ashp in the garden and a heat pump rated UVC

Understood… back to the LG, from what I’ve seen it looks like a nice unit, with the ability to do weather and load compensation.

Cool Energy 9kW has programmable flow temp setback and is a capable unit.

Very tempted to install one of these to provide a little evening heat in the house, without needing to light the second wood burner. I think the battery/inverter system wouldn’t have an issue running it, if those are the typical energy consumption figures.

Very nice indeed….

Step one: remove chimney Step two: make good roof Step three: close loft hatch 🤦‍♂️

Yep, when I had a toolbox chat with my builder at the weekend we discussed raising the upstairs windowsills but I don’t think that’s required. I mentioned that I wanted to change these upstairs windows anyway as I want to change them for 3G with thermally broken sills. I’ll do some drawings and figure out the pitch/height

Nope, change of plan…. Going to make the exposed beams as decorative items (probably 12mm veneer’d ply) and fit them afterwards, over the fire protection of the PB. After speaking to my builder at the weekend he said he’d done a job with exposed beams before and the regs compliance for fire proofing was a pain. Wife is happy so that’s all the matters.

I'm making good progress with the sketched designs for the rear extension, a simple 3 and a bit x 5 and a bit mono-pitched affair in traditional construction. My wife would like exposed ceiling rafters, which I'm quite OK with, so I'm looking at doing these in glulam, mainly because regularised timber is all fast grown, easy warp, easy twist, easy split stuff which will warp/twist/split and then look naff. My question: If I make this a warm roof, and use a structural sub-deck (18 or 22mm OSB), could I use something like a 250x90 glulam and put them at 600 or even 900 centres? I would batten between the rafters for a service void for pendant lights and then cover with 12mm PB and a skim. Insulation would then go above, followed by battens and double roman tiles to match the house, standard warm roof construction. I suppose this is really a question for a SE, but I haven't considered employing one for this small job, yet...

You don’t have a call for heat from a dhw cyl with a heat pump. The heat pump itself drives the three port then uses a thermistor to monitor cylinder temp. most heat pumps work by being in dhw priority when they are turned on, then a call for heat drives them over into central heating mode.

50 degree design temp, hmmm... I'd have liked to see that closer to 45 personally.

The Grant unit is made by Chofu, and is very capable. The controller is also a capable unit, but Grant configure/supply them to work as a drop in boiler replacement, and thus they often run with a terrible COP. My neighbour bought their place 2 years ago with a 18 month old Pico/MTEC 12kW already installed, a great unit by a superb Austrian manufacturer. Their plumber wanted to make some changed to the DHW strategy and for some reason the 12kW MTEC was replaced with a 6kW Grant..... I see that this has now been removed and the neighbour has gone back to gas, probably because of the poor performance of the Grant unit when installed badly.