HughF

The Midea units are imported and distributed by Freedom heatpumps, which was started and run by Graham Hendra till he sold up and moved on. There are two sizes of unit, and they're all dip-switch rated so you can convert a smaller one into a larger one. Their outputs at low air temperatures do not in any way match the data plate rating, so beware. You definitely need to upsize if fitting one. Loads of discussion about the poor performance of them over on the renewable heating hub forum.

Ooh, interesting.... I'm still very tempted to get one just for the learning experience

They don't.... defrost just sucks some heat out of the water circuit by reversing the F-Gas valve. Be that a buffer, or a direct connection to the heating circuit.

500m away? Get it hooked up…. I’ve lived off grid on the isle of purbeck for 39yrs and believe me when I say, of all the services you should try and get hooked up, it’s the electric.

Yep, always online if you’ve got the time. And for anything else, there’s Screwfix/toolstation

You can try looking in menu 7.3.2, according to page 35 of the following manual https://assetstore.nibe.se/hcms/v2.3/entity/document/330698/storage/MzMwNjk4LzAvbWFzdGVy

Sorry, no idea. I was just relaying what I read in the nibe manual.

Urban Plumbers on YouTube does this sort of conversion/upgrade all the time. Worth seeing if he covers your area.

Unless the stat communicates with the heat pump to reduce it's flow temperature during the night time, thus reducing the internal house temperature (modulation/compensating controls) then it will still be an on/off stat, like your Emmeti unit. With your weather comp set correctly, the Emmeti stat should be working as a hi-limit stat anyway. You could use any manner of programmable thermostats to do this automated setback, either with IoT capability, or just a regular programmer. You might have better efficiency however by using the 'Silent mode' in the Nibe controller to limit the thermal output of the heat pump during the night time hours.

What heat pump do you have? The manufacturers controller will/should/probably be able to do the best job of this. Simple on/off stats (like hive) have no place in a heat pump installation.

Toilet seat fixings are one of those things that have got worse as we’ve progressed forwards as a society. The 50yr+ old bog and seat in my parents house is still perfect. I’ve lost track of the number of modern ones I’ve replaced when the ‘chrome’ fixings rot.

Technically a Break tank is required if the pulled out spout can reach into the sink… Regs, innit…

Volumetric, always…. Unless you live in a volumetric desert (Frome in Somerset for example) It’s the same price as buying the gear and mixing it yourself. At least it is down in Dorset.

If it's signed off, it's signed off. Let the solicitors find any issue (they won't, they're conveyancers, therefore basically incompetent)... You did everything reasonable wrt compliance, I'd just get on and get it sold.

PP in locally for a class Q conversion on an Atcost concrete portal frame mess of a thing.... It's going to be hard work doing that as half the portal frame has blown.

We use 45 gallon drums for our pole barn bottoms. Dig them into the ground, pole goes in, concrete it up.

This is the sort of mess I have to deal with...

Because in my experience the bottom 1000mm is always a rotten mess thats 90% rust. My preferred repair method is to kango down into the ball, cut the steel off with plasma/oxy fuel, then splice in a flat plate bottomed repair section of a matching size UC. Resin studs down into the remains of the concrete ball and then grout under the plate. Ideally, all the columns would be blasted (best) or needle gunned (acceptable) and primed before you even start work. Just to see what’s left after blasting.

Bloody barn conversions….. as a welder, who’s spent a few too many weekends doing column repairs for people doing class Q conversions, my suggestion would be to always assume that you’ll need to dig out and replace the bottom 1000mm of each column. I hate these darn barn conversions, always a compromise.

Always go for white internal colour if your supplier offers that. Mine does, luckily. Had a few doors off them and it’s a nice mixture of 7016 outside and white inside.

Yeah, their 3G offering isn’t bad though.

Plastic or Aliclad timber? For plastic I like modernupvcwindows.co.uk, supplying the deceuninck profiles. For standard sizes, look at what’s off-the-shelf from screwfix/b&q, and copy those dimensions.

I went for adapters in the end, much cheaper…

What flow temp were the rads sized for?

Always wise to vacuum the line set down to verify connection integrity. Even with a non f-gas appliance.