HughF

Yep, I greased and de-burred the latch parts and cleaned/oiled the sliders regularly - it’s just they aren’t rated for being opened and closed 20 times/day. It simply the wear and tear on the parts I think. Especially the latches, die cast zinc, vs steel on the espag, and when adjusted up so that they nip the seals in with a bit of compression, it’s bound to wear out. On the hinges, the nylon sliders wore to the point where the weight of the window caused it to not slip inside when you tried to close it. I doubt there is really anything to be done apart from just throw new ones in every 10 years, or get rid of the cats. Good job bog standard UPVC is pretty cheap.

Standard heat pump install then….. Leave the manufacturers supplied controller somewhere inaccessible and give people a Hive (shudder) ‘Smart’ thermostat 🤦‍♂️ At least it wasn’t in the loft…

The Chofu modbus integration is pretty well documented, iirc…

Due to the 5 cats that my Wife has, and the fact she won't have a catflap (for perfectly valid reasons), we use the front door and one of the downstairs windows to allow entry/egress of the four legged furballs as required during the day/night. As such, the window hinges and furniture are all knackered after 10 years. I've replaced the hinges with ones from Screwfix, but they're not the perfect fit into the corner of the frame and as such the window is now not as accurately hinging as it was before. That's a minor inconvenience, more annoying is the gearbox in the espag has worn, and the die-cast alloy strikers have all worn out too. Prior to ordering new windows for the extension, are better quality hinges/espag/strikers available so we get a bit more longevity out of this stuff? The welded plastic bits are fine, as are the sealed units, it's just the mechanical stuff that is all worn out.

I wasn’t talking in tongues, I figured as you were smart enough to operate this forum, you were smart enough to figure out what I was saying.

In which case you probably shouldn’t be worrying yourself with what heat pump you should buy and instead focus on a competent installer who you can trust. I’d suggest Brendon Uys from Heacol.

To save you all the research, buy a Samsung from midsummer wholesale, install it following their instructions (no buffer, pwm pump, Samsung controller as room stat) and you’ll have a good system.

Made in Japan by Chofu. A good unit when installed correctly. The grant installation instruction’s essentially install it as an oil boiler which clobbers the efficiency.

I knew it was someone like that whom they rebranded…

Pay enough money to the people running the poll and you can get to the top 🤣

Bosch are Usually some rebranded European offering in my experience. I’d stick with something you can get parts and support for local to you. The control system is more important than the box outside.

Show me a heat pump controller that does load compensation 🤣 *LG and Mitsubishi are the only two that spring to mind, and they don’t even call it that.

Yep, you’ll need to either size the rads to suit the flow temp of the ufh, or run the system at a higher rad temperature then use a decent blending/pump station on the ufh. Hydraulic separation can come from close coupled Ts on the return pipework.

If you do go for the Samsung gen6, make sure to follow the midsummer wholesale installation guide which instructs you to use a pwm primary pump and use the Samsung controller as the room stat. the alternative, freedom heatpumps, instructions suggest a non-pwm primary pump and an external stat. although, if you go down the homely route then that will take care of all the stat and room temp stuff for you.

Midea 6kW? Or badger the crap out of evergreen energy until they add support for other heatpumps. Homely is either Samsung or midea at the moment. You could always for the the smallest Samsung gen6, I see no need to go for the HTQ.

Pay £8k more than you need too to save £5k through the BUS? Not the way I’d go but each to their own. Have you got a heat load for the property yet? That’s the first port of call.

Not if the ecodan needs PWM control of those pumps to control the deltaT

Letter of credit would sort this mess out….. don’t know how practical getting a TF supplier to agree to one would be though.

Nice job….. hard to beat a Rayburn if you’ve got the wood/time to fuel it. My mk1 has been ‘in’ 24/7 since 2nd November. Coal man comes again on Tuesday 🤣 My Dutch friends have a 355 running into a 1600ltr buffer tank with a dhw coil, batch fired. Does all their cooking, heating and hot water, except when it’s very very cold out and they then batch fire a 40kW log burner into the buffer tank also.

I’d certainly consider running a hot feed to the dishwasher. Better to heat that water with a cop of 3 from the heat pump than a cop of 1 using the appliance heater, surely? Although a typical dishwasher run is 3kWh or so, not a massive amount I guess. The washing machine will usually be quite happy on a 30 degree wash, so that can have a cold feed unless you’re dealing with soiled bedding or grease covered overalls when only a boil wash will do 🤣

This has ‘money grabbing investment scam’ written all over it.

No, because the air bricks for all of you will run front to back. They can’t run sideways because it’s a semi. BC might not be happy if you have to excavate downwards to get enough depth for the floor buildup, they can get twitchy about exposing the footings. But that’s only an issue if you need to dig down a long way and your footings are shallow.

If you keep the suspended timber floor, it needs to be ventilated. BC should have picked this up on my neighbours extension, but didn’t. I would put the dpm on top of the insulation.

150mm whacked hardcore, 200mm eps/xps, 100mm concrete with ufh pipes in. That’s 450mm to find, from FFL down… If you do decide to keep the suspended timber floor then you will need to carry the ventilation through the slab of the extension and use telescoping vents and air bricks on the footings of the extension to provide the airflow. Or just do what my neighbours did and concrete straight over the existing air bricks 🤣

There isn’t a void, you rip the whole lot up and turn it into a slab floor…. The damp issue is caused by damp in the floor being pushed towards the walls (which are still in contact with the ground)… It might be a non-issue, or it might be an issue. It all depends on what the water table is like where you are. If you end up with two separate systems, a standard screed system in the extension and an overlay system in the old part of the house then you’ll have two separate response times and probably require different flow temperatures.