Nickfromwales

Yes, they're just little plastic pegs which slide in as upper and lower stops, and the pins click in so you have to purposely remove them.

Maybe an option to look at capping the max flow / floor temp to ensure it cannot ever be 'inadvertently' ramped up.

I'd tank quite a way beyond the 'tray' area too. . It's pennies for the tanking kit and the small ones usually do 5m2, with the larger doing 10m2. I'd get the bigger one and just give it all 3-4 coats ( or until the goop runs out basically ).

Oh yes......I forgot that was on Ebuild not here. My bad.

Another option ? Wont be cheap. The Fiora one I fitted last was £500 for a 1000x1000mm. If avoid the White / lighter colours too as the 'grain' seems to harbour the grot a bit. Not the end of the world tbh if it's cleaned after every use but certainly a point to consider if you have a life beyond the shower tray

It would be linoleum, mineral or vinyl tbh. On the pic I posted with the mosaic and the Amtico, I just took the tiles a bit further than I thought was necessary ( so the Impey former went in oversized too ). I can't help thinking that water and tiles are a good combination, for floors, but it may be worth asking if these resin floors can be used as they will be watertight, one assumes. We fitted a lot of resin based non slip flooring in showers aboard quite a few ships / MV's when I worked away and they worked well. They went over screeded steel decks though, so the subfloors were VERY robust / rigid. Best to ask the resin floors manufacturers tbh and likewise see what the options are for mineral / other too.

Sorry J, only just seeing this now. The flooring won't be problematic, it'll be more down to the type of adhesive, and if the floors were primered properly before the smoothing compound was laid. If these floors can withstand direct sunlight through glazing panels etc then a bit of Ufh should be fine. I really would only be concerned about possible smells from the adhesive, and then only if the floors are being run at an excessively high temp tbh. If the floors are screeded, rather than a reinforced slab, I'd make sure that expansion gaps at door thresholds etc were observed and that's about it.

Your neighbours must think you've lost the plot

Not to mention that in my neck of the woods they're not funded / subsidised any more. I've seen my apprentices through with funding, but I'm not paying them to become my competition. No ta.

"Hasn't my husband paid you?" and then when I ask him..... "my wife says she'll pay you, all you have to do is ask". Tossers

Am I the only one thinking "Peckham Spring" right now ?

You can tile 'over' it, but not to it . I'd not rely on it for expansion, but still fit the Ufh suppliers one after the PUR. At point it'll be soft, but over a few m's it'll be quite resilient imo so I'd fit both. On that pretence I'd prob go for 30mm + the Ufh exp skirt.

I believe PUR has slightly better value per mm so I'd go with 25 or 50mm of that.

Apologies for being late. I was looking at these the other day. May be an option.

Looks fine to me. Same low profile ( thin ) cable and doesn't look like it's two cold ends so go for it.

Repressurise and give it another 24hrs. There's a lot of pipes coming out of the slab, what's the method for pressure testing all those, and what are they all ?

The spray is a cleaner and a finisher. You can't lick your finger and wipe CT1 like you can with silicone, as this stuff works underwater too the multisolve is used AFTER preparatory cleaning of the surfaces has been done, and is basically there to remove contaminants that could stop the CT1 adhering properly ( and thus making the process a waste of time and money ). You'll also need the MS to clean up afterwards. It's a bloody handy spray which also removes cured silicone from tiles etc, and general cleaning where conventional cleaners won't shift it. DONT leave it on any surfaces as it soaks into silicone, for one, and dissolves it nicely. NOTE : The white CT1 goes custard yellow and looks terrible. Don't use it as a finish anywhere where it will be seen ! Use clear, wipe it all but completely off, as a sealant, and then go over the top with white silicone as a finisher The other colours are fine, grey, beige, black silver etc, as is the clear. The white sucks, but is still good for purpose.

3mm I'd go for as it's much easier to hide the siliconed joint for one, and it's much neater IMO for another. 5mm usually for floors but you could go for 4mm wall and floor if easier. Fwiw I usually tile with Rubi 2mm spacers for a clean sharp look. Iirc your mosaic tiles have a pre set grout line in them don't they?

Then I think I can give my 'seal' of approval Bonding the timber down with CT1 or sikaflex will pay dividends IMO, in addition to a couple of mechanical fixings.

I'm with Dave. I just haven't tried any cad types of programs yet and really need to get fluent with at least one ASAP to start to design things a little more professionally than scribbling it down on A4 and taking a snap of it Luckily I have a 12 year old son who will no doubt tut and show me how it works. Once upon a time I was a computer savvy 12 year old, except it was on a BBC micro A upgrade ( the best of the BBC A AND BBC B I'll have you know ). Courtesy of my dad's DNA I grabbed a few spare 256 EPROMs out of knackered fruit machines ( from my uncle's company ) and was right at the forefront of cutting edge technology when I could store a whole game ( yes just one ) on my machine. Then came the DSDD disc drive ( an Opus Challenger 3 in 1 iirc ) which was THE daddy. I missed out on the PC revolution in a big way so any tips on an idiots guide to cad would be gratefully appreciated.

I'm just about getting the angle of your dangle. The tiles will have a silicone 'grout line' at the top yes? E.g. a non-permanent watertight seal for when the boxing in is in place and the room is functional? If so, then your design certainly needs balls of steel and a damn fine tolerance in the construction. Do you propose a 'fault line' through the grout / between tiles through the top and sides at both junctions? I can only see that working if they're colour match siliconed to give the illusion of a continuous tile finish. Got to admire the design and logistics though

What sort of temperatures can you expect the genny cooling system water to produce? Eg I'd have firstly thought about heating a very big primary TS ( adjacent to the genny ) as an additional heat battery, say 1500-2000 litres, then, when the TS is fully charged, would it be better to glean the heat from the TS and export it to the cylinder in the house or would it be better to use a diverter valve to send the heat directly to a secondary TS or UVC ( via a dedicated coil )? They'd have to be hydraulically separated I assume as the external arrangement would need antifreeze / inhibitor etc.

In about 20 years time, when I laugh and pee myself the same time. 18 till I die, me.

2 pints after work. A nice chillie, followed by 2 buds, chimnea lit and radio on until about 20 mins ago. Bliss.