Nickfromwales

Welcome aboard .

The heat generated when drilling porcelain is the number one reason that they break when being drilled. A water bottle hand spray and a diamond bit is essential, particularly when the hole is within an inch or two from the edge of the tile. Is it ceramic or porcelain, do you know?

I'm sure I can sort something

No. Solid floors will need sealing with a pva / water ( 50/50 ) mopping, and left to dry completely. For wooden floors I'd recommend a flexible tile adhesive primer, as they're far superior to pva imo.

If you're floating it then underlay is a must. Otherwise you'll have boards 'clacking' together when you walk on them. Are you not bonding them down? If deffo floating the floor, maybe go for a higher performance underlay to add to comfort and sound deadening, rather than the thin foam one usually suggested by the suppliers.

Don't seal the trap to the tiles, instead buy some 20mmx20mm pvc angle and make an upstand around the opening in the tiles. That'll allow the bath to be removed, negate sealing around the base of the bath ( possible ugly silicone / other on display ) and stop water from doing any harm under it. Splashes will soon naturally evaporate so unless your filming Free Willy 3 in there I wouldn't panic too much. . Edit : don't cut right through the angle section. Just cut the piece that hits the floor and then bend it there to form a continuous upstand. Mitre bond and activator will bond it into a rectangle then use sikaflex to bond it down.

As per the brief convo', cutting the floor to get the bath trap in is commonplace. Even more so with today's extra deep baths, but also with the practicalities / restriction of the entry height ( top of bath from floor ) where being higher than normal is not desirable. Fwiw, trying to pre-empty where the bath trap will finally end up, and allow for that to be tiled to, at the correct location, is just not practical. The bath trap issue isn't a failing, it's just how 'it is' so don't beat yourself up too much, plus your not welsh

Plasterboard, and tank it. Cheap, simple, and bombproof.

Hello and welcome back ??

Ok, I see. I'll await his response and see what, if any, influence I've had

@slidersx200 Micheal, I've just seen that plan and agree. I've just spoken to Byron at Boulder and asked him to personally review it urgently / at his next earliest convenience. He said he's not familiar with it off hand and asked that I email him the project details, which I did at 15:54 today. Ill come back to you ASAP and see if we can get something sorted. ?

Lol. You're so unfair !

How are you managing without cross-members or gussets on the main support legs? They're very long, doesn't the whole thing move at all when kids are blasting around?

hut, house, it's all the same.

Not tiling it should make a huge difference underfoot . Good choice.

You'll have to give us a clue dave

Hi and welcome. It seems befriending a local farmer is the way to get a lot of muck shifted for not a huge amount of money One cleared the side of mine for less than the ( empty ) skips would have cost. Best to buy a flat cap and some wellies now and start looking for trails of cow poo

Where does the hut get it's power supply? Umbilical from yours or fresh supply ( on the same phase ? ).

Can't help thinking that for 40 m or so, can't you get a cable there? Cat6 is cheap as chips, so you could bury 2 runs in cheap PVC conduit and enjoy hard wired performance. Maybe part buried / part arial run with catenary wire?

I believe you'd be better off asking them directly tbh, so as to be sure not to invalidate their warranty FYI, if you @ ( hashtag ) a member they get a notification. Just type @ and the list of members can be sifted through by typing the first letters of their username. Thus JSH would appear as @JSHarris He'll then get the prompt to respond.

I'd assume it would be by interrupting the mains power supply, via a contactor. Maybe some units have a set of zero volt contacts for external shutdown / control. Would be quite simple to do tbh.

If gasses are being produced in those quantities, it'll be from combustion created by a fully involved fire. Smoke will have been produced far, far sooner than this combustion will have occurred and will have subsequently been detected by the installed, linked, detection measures. By that stage there should be no real reason why you wouldn't be (1) alerted to the smoke generation, (2) up and exiting the property, and (3) removed from a position where such created gasses are a risk to life. IMO the focus here is on the wrong thing, hence why I'm splitting hairs. If there is a remit to tackle that situation, the talk should be of fire suppression and emergency / terminal escape measures. Its one of the reasons that 3+ storey domestic dwellings send a shiver down my spine.

With the steel supported on chairs, many choose to zip tie the Ufh pipes to the steel as a ready made 'clip rail'. I'd favour having the pipes clipped to the steel, and thus fully encapsulated in concrete.