Nickfromwales

Plus one on scrapping it. Couldn't think of anything more false of an economy tbh.

If it's a former, then the likes of Impey or Diamond only need around 25mm depth.

Hi mike. Good to see you here. If you can take 5 mins out, then please feel free to open a new thread relating to the boundary issues and get that seeded. It's a blank canvas here at the moment in the more niche areas so any / all input here is greatly appreciated. for anything pipe related just give me a shout.

Ok, but minus the glow-in-the-dark undercrackers please

Deffo a good choice for a straightforward shape Oh, and welcome aboard !

Good idea. Plus 1 to fibreglass.

The big problem with lights around mirrors is the reflection of EVERY little detail. The actual light should be physically hidden but the emmitted light still seen imo, which is hard to achieve. The staggered joint in the layers of plasterboard will need to be hockey-sticked so as to give a clean neat edge so when seen in the reflection it doesn't look like Edward scissor hands did it. It's a shame the mirror is fitted as I'd have suggested a frosted ribbon all the way around so you don't see the lights in the reflection, plus that would help diffuse the light a little. You may wish to illuminate the stairs by creating a lip at the front edge of the cill and run an additional strip under there as a wall wash ( vertically down from the window ledge ) which could look nice if done properly. Don't dismiss the colour change ones too quickly as it may be advantageous to be able to select a hue and fix the colour accordingly ( if these kits are capable of 'locking' the colour selection between on / off events, without manual intervention. You could have some nice solid colours like pastels etc. Not so garish then imo?

Is the light for feature or function? Eg, make the mirror look cool or light the person stood in front of it?

Are you still aiming at off-grid for electricity? Just in case ;)

Welcome aboard!

Hitting, or more specifically STRIKING the glass during installation creates a ticking time bomb. It may also have been caused by the house naturally settling after buildings work. Was it a fixed, framed piece of glass?

It worked though !!!

Na, he's definitely pinched that from vogue, or top gun ( with my money on the latter ). Anyhoo, setting the silver blonde Adonis aside, WELCOME BACK The Mitchell's.

I assume it'll be100watt per m2 so it'll be fine to tank over. I'd probably recommend laying the mat and then flooding the area flush to the wire ( literally just covering it ) with a flexible self leveller. That would give you a flat clean surface which would get primed ( 2 coats, 1 watered down 75% water, and one neat ) with the Impey primer, and then the membrane. The idea being that no water could get to the Uth mat. Flooding the area will then make up the defect either side of the shower so the membrane has an even flush surface to continue onto. You'll use the same volume of tile adhesive to make up this deficit so it's 6 and two 3's cost wise but a much better job imo.

Can you hang the ceiling downstairs on acoustic rail / fixings and use dense acoustic wool in between? That would leave you free reign upstairs. Just spreader plates then. Another option could be acoustic wool and then spreader plates, 22mm weyroc, 6mm dense rubber acoustic mat then your choice of floor covering. With the spreader plates the heat will still get through imho.

Ok, so no areas will end up being Ufh heated as well as rads in the same space? That was my question . Rads upstairs is a good fail safe as others here with full MBC passive builds have reported back on a need for a little trace heating. Have you considered Ufh up and down as it would be mono temp then as opposed to two differing disciplines / controls / components etc?

Am I reading this correctly, as in you'll have UFH AND rads ?

Also, I've just got off the phone to an Impey uk tech guy. The membrane ( as I thought ) is a must. It provides a bond to the GRP, acts as a decoupling barrier AND provides a critical key for the tile adhesive. The guy said to primer around 1000mm in each direction on the floor and lay more of the membrane down as belt n braces. ( And as a typical manufacturers arse cover ) they even went on to say to apply membrane to the entire floor area. He agreed that a over shoot of 1m should suffice but only as you're fitting glass.

I usually do tbh, and weight the tray down whilst it cures. That takes care of any final undulations ( 1,2 or 3mm max ) but if you're confident that the tray doesn't move one jot then I'd say you'd be ok. Is this one fitted now?

Gyproc easy fill is designed for seamless and invisible blending in of repairs to plasterwork. I use it when I do knock throughs etc and you can get it perfect if you make the right call and get a good decorator to apply it and layer it accordingly. Just prior to it being good enough, you coat it with a high opacity paint, and leave to dry. The paint acts as a super fine filler and allows you to sand back at 320 grit level to a perfect finish. Cut the plaster as sympathetically as you can, bite the bullet, and get your lights spot on

Happy days. Can I assume that the ply was bonded / glued and screwed down before fixing the tray down? If you're not using the Impey tanking membrane then you'll have no warranty based recourse The one I pictured did use the specified Impey kit ( including the membrane ) so you're stepping into the unknown if you don't stick to their 'approved' method of fitting. The membrane covers you from the mouth of the waste opening, all the way to the tanked corner / wall junctions so is quite significant. The only reason I see that they pursue this particular discipline is that there is an obvious break after the waste where the off-settable disk sits in the former. The membrane ensures no water can get past that 'weak' point, but tbh you can cheat your way out of it with a good sealant. The disc ( for the benefit of those reading this long after I'm immortalised ) has countersunk holes all the way round and you fix it down with self tappers, and iirc the Impey kit also comes with this absolutely horrible ( but good ) rubber solution in a mastic tube ( which you're supposed use to seal everything up from an Impey POV ). It's totally and utterly horrendous stuff to use and NEVER cures fully, and I MEAN never, which meant I had no choice other than to throw my mastic gun away after using it.......and my scraper.........and anything I touched whilst throwing my gun and scraper away. Dangerous territory I think as I can't say you will be watertight without the membrane, AND I can't say that anything will adhere to the former without the membrane. Have a think on how to progress and come back with your thoughts

They seem fine. They just need 3/8" to 15mm copper to irons which is pretty common practice when fitting imported taps tbh. The other option is to ditch the flexis that come with it and buy some 15mm x 10mm replacement ones such as these

Sorry your pic is as bad as the ones I draw If the stack carries on up then deffo OK to strap it back in .

Impey and Diamond are only an inch thick . Both GRP iirc.

The kick back loop will be fine, but you'll need to take it up to attic height and fit a 50mm AAV which is accessible. For the runs which you show T'eed in multiple times just use one of these with a 45 out of the middle to rectify you back to 90 degrees. That way you'll get the water naturally flowing to the stack plus you'll be able to get a narrow flexis rod through the tee and down the leg ( should you ever need to do so ). Generally best practice to use swept branches rather than flat T's as the latter create a wall which the water has to hit against before deciding which way to fall. That is quite problematic for shower and bath wastes as it massively reduces the natural flow velocity, but not so problematic for a basin.