Nickfromwales

All hail the ale.

So basically what we're saying is don't look to us lot for advice on glue All I know is what I've stuck down is still down. More ale please. ( For the benefit of the masses, tonight will be sponsored by Englands finest....Pedigree. Très Bien ).

Bonjour, from sunny Wales. Ask 3 times.... Measure Twice..... Cut once .

The PU glue I get from my local merchant ( and have done for donkeys years ) just happens to be branded D4 It doesn't wipe off with a cloth I can tell you without a shadow of s doubt. Quicker drying isn't always better, as it takes a long time to screw an 8x4 plywood sheet down

Yup. Water soluble unlike the PU's. You can wipe that off with a wet rag, unlike the D4 which you need a gun cleaner / solvent to remove. They don't have gap filling qualities but if your screwing thin ply onto flat decking, at 100mm centres, then you won't have any gaps to fill

Just any tbh. They're all the same stuff with different names. Some are waterproof, so that's prob a box to tick when choosing. This kind of thing. You'll get good mileage from 5 litres ?

D4 and PU, all terms / names for the same product. Moisture curing, expanding ( aka gap filling ) single part glue. PVA is a totally different thing, and water based. On bigger floors I use a mosaic trowel ( 3mm notch ) and apply a layer of resin / PVA wood glue onto the floor where the ply is to be overlaid, so you get a near solid bed of glue. Then I screw at at least 100mm centres for a sound nights sleep. The 'normal' wood glues go off slowly, ( unlike the PU's which give you literally minutes ), so with water-based your not counting each second when working. Plus you don't get that god forsaken PU stuff on your hands Also don't forget to liberally glue the abutting joints! Not many people, especially 'occasional tilers' ( including wa***ers who just own tiling tools ), fully appreciate the importance of this process, and then the customer pays the price down the line when the grout lines start cracking, and then the tiles. Seen it many times, and the aftermath. Tiles are for life, not just for Xmas

D4 has never let me down. Gorilla is just the Evián of the glue world.

Gorilla is PU / D4 afaik. ?

And that's with pva not PU. PU is a race against time, why beat yourself up eh?

6mm for me and never had a prob even with Ufh.

100 M intervals. !!!

And he was DAMN spot on tbh. I put them in at smaller centres if I'm 1% unsure about the subfloor. Dont complain, he did a top job. Screws are cheap, re-tiling floors not so.

With the big players offering up to 10 I'd be reconsidering tbh. If it's the backbone of the installation then it's going to make sense to buy once with a unit which should give you 20+ years of service. Also, I'd want to be able to be near guaranteed for a like for like swap later down the line, rather than one which may slip off the radar / become 'parts obsolete'. Baxi / Vaullant etc aren't likely to be going anywhere soon In 23 years of doing this I've never seen or heard of them. Says a lot tbh. How long have they been est ?

Been looking at this boiler and apart from literally NEVER hearing of the make, it does what is says on the tin. Whats the warranty like?

It was all going so well, then I spotted the obvious building control infringement which could jeopardise the whole project............... Yup, that Justin Bieber poster . I'm trying to bring out new legislation banning such items. "Is it too late to say sorry?", yes Justin, it is

I wish the floor I was tiling today was as flat as that ! Looks very good considering they can't really see how level it is until it has a shine to it. Hows it feel underfoot?

That's 100% a common method of fixing down pans, yesteryear. I've seen hundreds like that. One of the main reasons was the porcelain / China was ever cast very well and changed shape a fair bit when fired. That meant that when you sat the pan on the floor it was either not level or rocked on the high points. The solution was to make a tower out of compo and twist the pan down into it before it actually made contact with the floor, and leave it to set. You can't argue that it worked a treat, and would have still been there in 20 years time. That colour may put you of mushy peas for life

Never use it where it's on show basically. It's a foundation, so you'll still need a coloured silicone / other to finish off. The good thing about that discipline is that the bead do silicone can easily be removed and redone when it gets tatty.

What peter said. Ok...... A TS is basically a huge round radiator, full of primary central heating water, and stores zero dhw. Dhw is produced instantaneously via a coil which sits at the top of the TS which is simply heated by the surrounding water. The heated primary water can be drawn off via dedicated tappings, the same way heated primary water enters the TS from the boiler, and your Ufh would simply be drawn from those points. There is no 'pressure' other than the static primary pressure which would show on the gauge of your system boiler, which is simply showing that the system is sealed and full of water, aka pressurised. There is no force available to 'push' water to the manifolds, that circulation would be provided solely by the manifold pumps. For eg, if you connected the manifold flow and return to the TS, then unless it was by convection, no water would flow through the pipes as the body of water would be unified and therefore be at the same potential. Even though the boiler pump is pushing water to the TS, it's also pulling back at almost the same potential so that creates a circuit of flow to and from the TS to the boiler, only. To create external ( beyond the TS ) circulation you need to fit a pump, hence the ones on the manifold. @Temp spoke in detail ( on EB ) about this need for a second pump still remaining with certain manifolds / manufacturers, but tbh I still am unsure as to why the manifold pump wouldn't draw through regardless. Maybe Temp can reiterate that so we can identify the type of manifold which may need the secondary circulation pump. An UVC is the opposite of a TS. It has a coil, fed by the heat source eg boiler, which heats the tank full of clean drinking quality 'potable' water, the water that actually comes out of the tap. UVC's don't have additional tappings for removing heat as the coil which heats it simply couldn't deal with the additional demand, eg a bath being drawn plus all the Ufh calling for hot water to heat the house from cold etc. The TS gets heated directly via the open body of water so is far far better at getting the heat from the boiler into the primary water, plus it circulates it too, spreading the heat out evenly. The flow from the boiler also hits the top of the TS, which is where the dhw coil sits, so in essence provides a kind of hot water priority. This is why your second plumber is one is not consider using. He should have clearly stated all this to you as a reason for his suggestion, but I doubt if he knows what a TS is, let alone how it should be utilised. My bottom dollar is on him failing to explain that he intended to run your Ufh directly from the boiler, using 2-port zone valves, and a third zone valve for the UVC, as opposed to leaving you think that the Ufh could be fed from the UVC. If you were having Pv I'd have probably said upsize to maybe 400ltrs, but if you feed the TS directly with that size boiler you'll get instant, constant ( as in 24/7 constant running dhw ) from the 300. As it'll never be used as a heat battery from a Pv POV, pointless in upsizing and increasing the losses, BUT, if you do upsize it, drumroll please, you'll be able to run at a lower target temp and reduce the losses a fair bit so if overheating would ever be a problem that's one way to mitigate it ( say upsizing to 500L and running at 55oC, or 65oC at 400L ), Setting up for a lower flow temperature can allow you to ensure you hit the best condensing flow return temps and maximise boiler efficiency too, so this is a multi-faceted question which needs a bit more thought / input . With a fully modulating boiler you could probably get away with running the Ufh directly from the boiler and fitting an UVC for dhw, as long as the minimum heat load for the house ( when the house is up to temperature and the boiler is only offsetting the heat losses from the house itself ) doesn't fall below the lowest modulating point. The only problem would be sizing the UVC exactly to your anticipated consumption. This situation would see the boiler running all sorts of different flow temps though, and would reduce it's efficiency quite a bit, so my recommendation would be.... 400L TS fed from a 32kw boiler. Ufh fed from the TS. Have the 2 circuits of Ufh flow and return pipework split immediately after the TS so the ground floor pipework can be isolated from the upstairs via dedicated two 2-port valves. These are required more to stave off convection circulation ( a killer with TS's ) than to offer control for the heating. You will also require an additional 2-port ZV between the boiler and the TS (i) to have control of the TS temp and (ii) to stop backflow of heat from the TS to the boiler. Set the cylinder stat to control that ZV and that ZV will then fire the boiler. That can be set to get the boiler to fire for bursts at a temp suited to get the best efficiency, rather than constantly idling to maintain temp. Written on the move so hopefully makes some sense.

Quick question, do you have a lip with those flush ones or is the tile cut edge on display with only the grouting / sealing for a finish?

I've not yet seen the flush ones tbh, and I like the look, a LOT. I'd say take the tiles off in a heartbeat, but the only problem will be if you've stuck them to plasterboard the tiles will take it with them and open a hell of a can of worms up. Whats the score with the tiles? PB / other? Type of adhesive ?

It doesn't look like you'll get much filler material into the crack tbh, so I'd say plate as well. Looks like a major stress point too.

Don't tell me you finished the Capri before the bathroom ?!?

Excellent news. Some of the bloggers had the links / mention of this place removed so glad a few got left behind. If your in contact with any ex members please spread the word.