Nickfromwales

You facing that with ply ? Would save a lot of complication making those studs good again.

Guilty. ?

Yes, open pipe for primary is fine. Certainly a good time to upgrade IF the cylinder is U/S.

One here for change of £7 including postage. Very handy to have a 'duff' chisel with a wide blade and you just put an edge back on with a hand held grinder. ( safety first ). Good for all sorts of things like lifting floorboards etc.

Drain down the central heating with the cold mains feed to both tanks turned off ( float valves ). If the CWS empties over a couple of hours also then it's a perforated coil. You need to be draining at a point that ensures the cylinder coil is getting drained, ideally, as that will give a faster indication.

+1 just bring the 110mm pipe up as far as you can and then fit one of these

I doubt any of it is metal? Unless it's stainless. Everything I've seen so far is plastic or Upvc. I'm asking btw, as I've not looked at this at all yet. .

Are we deffo talking about the CWS ( cold feed to the hot cylinder ) and not the much smaller F&E ( feed and expansion for the central heating ) ?

Just going to buy the eps from merchants and fixings off the bay. What else do you need beyond that?

Something like this Frankensteined ?

At that tolerance it's paramount that the pipe is supported VERY well to keep it absolutely flat along it's fall. Normal plastic soil clips have a sag of prob 5mm or more so be very careful when doing horizontal runs In extreme cases where the wall isn't flat, plumb and straight ( such as a n old basement ) I'd even consider using Uni-strut to make brackets and hang the soil pipe in some metal 110mm pipe clips ( like these ). That would also allow you to adjust the height of clips to set the fall just by turning the clips into the threaded bar more / less.

Fit the EWI? Yes I'm looking to do it myself, as I don't like some of the jobs I've seen tbh. Poor detailing at the top and exposed sides so rain must be pouring through some of the worse ones. I put 30mm + 9.5 PB insulated boards on the inside face of the outside walls of the bathroom, and I'm considering a layer of 40 - 50mm EPS on the external wall to make up for the lack of cavity. I went block on flat as the original which I had to adhere to is 9" brick no cavity, and time was something I didn't have to look at other options so I just dug the raised ground level away from DPC level by a good 100+ mm and no issues so far other than a bit of cold bridging around the window which I think is because of the dry line adhesive.

Apologies, I missed this one. Im with your missus tbh, get it chopped out and redone if you can get at it from the adjacent room. It'll only do you nut in after you move in and you'll then not want the grief. "Don't spoil the ship for a penny of tar"

"Part fixing" EWI gets 'first' fixed with foam to deal with the undulations and provide a temporary bond. Non-metal fixings are then typically used to provide a secondary mechanical fix. Something I'm looking to do to the rear two walls of my ground floor bathroom ( block on flat ) before the winter kicks in.

A chip off the old block.

Sounds spot on ( with you having put too much glue in too me thinks ).

Situations only get out of hand if unsuitably managed. One example was a house in Swansea town centre where someone did a knock through. Only thing they didn't do was assess the integrity of the ground upon which they sat the acrows on. Wish I took a pic tbh, but it think I was put off by the fact that I really didn't fancy being in the builders boots. The centre section of the pine end had dropped by about 600mm with what seemed to be only the still intact part-rotated windows holding it in place. I did one on a 3-storey brick townhouse and my arse still wobbles when I think of what would have happened if that one 'dropped'. Lucky for me I put twice as many props in as was needed so I slept well for the one night it was unsupported. Caution, with a smidgen of fear is a healthy mix to ensure you follow procedure.....and then some. If you chose to go that way make sure you chose someone inventive and that they offer more than a simple "footing and pillar" option

Oh, and to avoid a pillar you may get away with a pair of concrete lintels, say 150x100x1200/1600 sat atop the wall to act as pads. I did this I'm my neighbours house as the steel needed to be where the original bit of wood sat which was the sliver of brickwork between the two alcoves ( 1 which was the right hand alcove in the dining room, and 1 which was the left hand alcove of the living room ) where divided. No wonder when my neighbour asked me to investigate it was prompted by his coving coming down by an inch at this junction !! A pillar would have ruined the flush look of the wall as it traversed the new open plan liv / din room so I went at it that way. Still up lol.

Pop the manhole up,and try a bit of old fashioned echo-location. Turn a sledge hammer upside down and with someone ( unlucky ) dangling their head in the manhole someone else goes around and gives the ground a good thump. Audible feedback at the manhole gives you at least some indication and it's free.

Wide old wood chisel works quite well. Be careful of disturbing the top course of each reveal if they're lightweight blocks. You can get long TCT blades for recip saws which will go through without any drama but that's probably over thinking it.

Hmm. Was it dribbling out or expanding out? Sounds like the stuff I use when biscuit jointing etc.

Thanks for the feedback

Brown clear liquid or opaque like PVA?