Nickfromwales

Some pictures would round this off nicely

Water based doesn't yellow like oil based does, but my go to man for final decorating uses oil. He's a true perfectionist and his work is immaculate, preparation taking up more time than painting of course. Water based doesn't 'flow' and settle like oil, as in the brush marks stay in the paint far more than with oil. A way out of that is to roller the panels and only cut / brush the detail where it's not so apparent. Fwiw, I hate gloss and went for the water based stuff for the woodwork in mine and it's been on for 4 years and is still brilliant white. Dries super quick and no lingering horrible 'back-of-the-throat' stench that you get with oil. As long as your painter ( ? ) understands that oil gloss is a shine NOT a build then you'll get a good result either way. The primer and under coats being built up accordingly is absolutely critical to get the foundation all uniform, flat, and, most importantly, white PRIOR to the final gloss top coat going on. You should not be looking at all for getting colour coverage from the gloss, if your chosen colour is white, it should simply be to put a shine to it so you'll need far less gloss than most would apply. Good quality undercoat is your friend, and that, after you've primed and rubbed that back a little first, is the layer you should look to get as flawless as possible so the gloss just lightly flicks over the top. Toupret is the filler you want. Fantastic stuff.

Agreed. This doesn't sound like it needs BR involved though, and an annoyance that someone would make you do things a particular way IF you chose to make an improvement when they haven't recommended or enforced that improvement in the first place.

From a practical point of view, even as little as a 40mm board ( 9.5mm plasterboard and 30mm EPS ) will make a huge difference. Big consideration is making sure to foam the bottom and top thoroughly to stop convection air flow behind the dabbed boards.

If it's a silicone, you can get silicone removers. You ( ideally ) need to physically remove as much as possible first ( with a non-metallic scraper ) and then use the remover for the residual sealant. CT1 Multisolve spray is good. Just spray it on and leave for 5-10mins and then use a cotton cloth to rub it away. That process should avoid scratching as much as possible.

Plus one on liquid DPM and then dot and dab EPS backed plasterboards onto the 'cold' / external or non-cavity walls. The issue is probably warm humid air hitting the bitterly cold and unventilated areas, such as the backs of the units and plinth level etc.

I did a job with Coombs in both the front and rear bedrooms upstairs, so one per square room. I decided to make them more pronounced and then fitted some small semi-recessed, frosted, low wattage lighting into them. 4 lights over 5m worked well. 'His and hers' switches by the bedside cabinets so the room only got light slightly when the the main spots are not necessary eg getting up for a nighttime jimmy etc.

Couldn't sleep . Loads of work on and the personal organiser in my head decided to switch on at around 03:30 this morning. Pro.....I know exactly what I'm doing today and in what order Con....too tired to do any of it Thank crunchie it's Friday.

If your on about the 'pin' then yes they screw in, but it's sometimes also the way that the chrome control disc / dial gets held on. Other method, which you'd need if you wanted to remove it long term, is that a hex drive grub screw gets tightened to retain the chrome dial and then the pin has a female thread that then screws hand tight onto the remaining exposed thread of that ( long ) grub screw. You could order it, have a look, and return it if it's unsuitable.

Do any deter great crested newts?

Dont beat yourself up, let me try " indoor pool with swimjet "...... ( That'll take the heat off you Peter ). Hi, and welcome Brisney, just need to make sure my ipad doesn't call you Britney

Another good, but rare, example of you being 'allowed' to make your own home the way you want it, for you to live in accordingly. Sounds a good result dave.

Go for two deck mounted taps, but low profile, and the flush filler that I used. The taps would be better against the wall TBH.......... Make your bloody mind up . I've turned your bath around in my head so many times now I'm dizzy.

Ok now I'm on the fence. Had a look at the description and it's open to interpretation. It does have two inlets suggesting hot and cold, but I've seen lots which give you both so you can blank one side off ( easier installation ) which are for mixed flow input only. Best to message the seller and get it confirmed maybe?

Yup. That one is a gate valve to arrest pre-mixed flow ONLY. There would need to be a thermostatic / manual mixer valve in line, prior to it so Barney's right . It's not a mixer tap Onoff, it's a flow control. I still think they both stick out too far, and with your shaped bath adds to the choke point.

Btw, if my guests judge me by the size of my cloakroom, I need new guests .

Can that window be relocated to the far left? If so, I'd have a small corridor cloakroom ( where do you stand with BR's over size btw ? Wheelchair access ? ) and have the rest of the footprint dedicated to storage and plant.

If your not sealed from outside just wondered if it may sweat. Overthinking as usual, wonder where I get that from. I foamed a soil pipe that came down in a hotel foyer. I put around 2" of foam all around it, PVA'd it, scrim taped it and Artexed it to look like a roman pillar. Shaved the foam accordingly assuming it would quiet the 'noise' but no such luck. If say about 1% quieter if that.

Dense wool would be better but you prob don't want wool against the barrier.

Expanding foam doesn't do a JOT for sound deadening a soil pipe, ask me how I know. .

This is what we used to supply with every telephone on structured cabling ( patch able) installs. Phone plugs into that, that plugs into wall socket. If your having a dedicated cordless phone position ( base station ) then it seems a better idea to make that one a dedicated BT outlet and have done with it maybe?

Needs to have a thru-tang ( metal strike cap which is part of the whole metal shaft and blade in one solid section ) or it'll just break if hitting it hard, and repeatedly.

RJ11 to RJ45 iirc.

Raised sole plate is what I did on the last one where I needed to put a soil run at the bottom of a new stud wall, but I also made it 6x2 so the knuckles of the bends were absorbed in the depth and I could then just PB it as normal.

Yup, that's doable. The downside is no cross connectivity after your second fixed, eg a phone outlet is never going to do data without a strip out and re-termination. The whole idea of cabling in cat5 is that you can patch things without having to make any alterations to the hard wired side. All the cat5 outlets get same - config wired and you then use an adapter 'dongle' ( like the RJ45 to BT adapter ) and then plug your phone into that. Tbh, with cordless DECT telephony it's a wonder why people want the bother. The Panasonic ones I fitted for the last customer worked at over 30m away from the house. Crackled a bit at that distance but pretty good for change of £100 for a 4 pack Plus with the DECT ones you can transfer calls from one handset to another, page, intercom call and more so a lot of pros to support considering them IMHO. You can also get DECT repeaters for certain brand cordless phones which will give you another 30-50m range ( garage / outbuildings etc ).