Nickfromwales

Wall mounted switch outside the bathroom. I hate pull cords, noisy, grubby things. I always look at the string in customers houses and just think of how many people have pulled that after not washing their hands. My favourite bit is the white string at the top which gets dirtier and dirtier the further towards the pull / weight until it's black. Pull cord?......no ta

Plus 1 on air con, but only if you have doors between it and the main house. I'd do that in a heartbeat. The cost of daytime cooling would hopefully be offset with PV, but would be thirsty of an evening and may require more electricity than you have spare ( as you'll be off grid ).

The only 'con' is they're not very sympathetic to the look of a slate roof IMO, unless you go to a coloured one. If your walls are white you may get away with white, but it's down to personal choice. The other thing is the DV will need overhanging battens for it to be secured to. I can't recall if they get cut short to allow the rain to drip off or whether that's an issue or not, ( as the battens are tanalised ). Overhanging the slate and packing with mortar can be done for sure, but it's a recognised point of failure / maintenance. You could still do either tbh, it's down to the look you prefer. .

If they run their own path eg away from the nearest Ufh pipes then they won't benefit from any warmth, they'll be providing it. Thats will dissipate heat from them before its reached the zone it's meant to be heating, so I say super insulate any transitional pipe work so the heat only goes where you want it. A sun room or conservatory will be quite dissimilar to the main house in terms of climate / heating patterns, eg the sunroom heating may be running longer into the evening whilst the house is satisfied, and may not be required in the morning / midday when the sun is warming / overheating it. Therefore there is a good chance that the slab these pipes traverse through may not be 'warm' when the sunroom is calling for heat, IMO reinforcing the need to insulate them accordingly. As you can't increase the flow temp for a single zone ( when sharing a manifold ) you will probably benefit from pulling the pipe in at smaller centres so you slightly increase the W/m2. Having its own manifold would allow you to have control of the flow temp but there's only so much higher you can go so I'd strive to connect to the main manifold and ensure the produced heat is delivered to that area, at as close to the temp it was generated at as possible, and flood that area with extra pipe.

I knew you'd bite before me

It'll need to be dirt and dust proof, plus splash proof. Good luck. ?

Agree with that aspect, Nick. Just my experiences of passive builds leave little or no signal transmission through the build fabric. Literally 3/4 signal and full data outside the front door and I could JUST about make a call inside. To get data signal to check emails etc I had to stand on a crate with my phone at arms length out of the velux window. It was almost like a mobile phone jammer was in use inside. For a property with regular build fabric then not anywhere near as problematic, but even in my stone house I've had to get a wifi piggy-backed 3G booster as it was useless otherwise. They ( EE ) wanted £90, ( I told them they can cancel if it's not free, and a free one turned up a day later ). £90 so I can use my phone at home ?!? ? ✌️Cheeky Bar-stewards

I could have cut the tray with a diamond disc but didn't fancy it going wrong . ( eg the tray only came square or rectangular).

The double bi-fold arrangement there was so that the room could be opened up when the shower was not in use. I'd not recommend that arrangement if you don't have the same remit / constraint, due to the slight 'complication' of opening / closing the doors from inside. The magnetic strips make it easy to form the cubicle, but it's an effort to open them tbh. The handles should make it easier but it was still easier to grab the glass at the top and pull on the opposite handle to start the opening process ( eg breaking the strong magnetic seal ). If you want something similar, I'd recommend a fixed glass one side and a frameless door the other. You can go for the identical job if swmbo has her heart on it and I'll elaborate if necessary . ?

Check the sell by date

Let's agree on a 2020 launch date?

I just whip the pipes with a few layers of insulation tape for physical separation as it's easier than gaffa tape on the bends. Gaffa tape on the long straight runs is easier if you have both available. Looks neat and tidy, stand down red alert.

Cheers. New territory here for me so all and any input appreciated. I was going to fit two large HP 's for the ND side so they could mothball that side of it if it wasn't rented for a few months of the year and also so they had redundancy for reliability / maintenance ( eg one will give some heat whilst other is being serviced / other ) plus I wanted them to idle as much as possible to keep the noise down. Need ~32kw of space heating + Dhw. Thought this would be far better split over at least two units, but if a pair of 16/18kw units would suffice, please let me know. Guys due to come back to me at the end of the first week of sept.

Most kitchen suppliers, especially the bespoke ones, charge tear-jerking amounts of money to give you what you wanted. At the absolute minimum I'd want the coloured doors replaced completely, and either the wrong units changed or the equivalent discount given. The real problem is you don't have written evidence of that request so looks like you'll only be able to push for a discount. They could simply tell you to Foxtrot Oscar regardless, change the doors and ask you to stump up, and from a legal POV they'd be entitled to do so. Down to company ethics now tbh. Mention the thread being followed online, and how you've been happy up until now. Also, how did you not notice the wall units sooner? I've just tiled a kitchen with a 600x600mm tile that's very much like the ones you've chosen. Looks great Are those 900's?

Quite simple tbh. It's not what you asked for, and some of it is damaged. The damaged bits need replacing and the incorrect wall units have to come off and be changed to the ones you asked for. Enforcing that is another thing though, so this'll be down, very simply, to asking the company directly. Until you've done that I doubt we can really advise any further. Have you approached them for a response yet?

Also any water in there, whilst exposed to the elements, will need to contain anti-freeze. That means the entire volume of primary heating water would have to be treated.

no pressure lol. If the manifold is the other side of the house then the pipe runs may be too long to do it that way. You might have to run flow and return pipe work now in anticipation of fitting a dedicated manifold for the new room. What size would the room be? Probably looking at two loops for that room as it'll have quite high heat loss during the winter / bitter parts of the year. If you had say 2x 70m loops ( pipe at 100-120mm centres ) then you'd have 15m of tail. Would that get you to the proposed main Ufh manifold? Also, if you can get to the manifold without exceeding 100m pipe loops, don't forget to run cables for the thermostat in that room as it'll need to be stand alone from the rest of the house. Point 1) yes Point 2) pointless endeavour .

I've left the information with the customer for them to ascertain the ( possible ) benefits, but I steered them off LPG for the moment. They're already going to be massively better off in a 10 year period going for ASHP's, as the building they're currently in, ( of similar size but not as well insulated etc ) has a yearly bill of nearly £5k for LPG. I was estimating that they'll use around £2k of electricity to achieve the same £5k of energy consumption, worse case. They could also install Pv but I doubt they'll go for it tbh, due to the combined capital expenditure. They started pulling faces at my quote of £21k to fit the HP's and supply and first fix all the heating and hot water system, ( less Ufh as it's existing ), which I thought was keen price to say the least . Their estimated cost for the LPG boiler install is around £13k so they only need to save £7-8k fuel costs to break even on the bigger price. Over 10-15 / 20 years the HP's make much better sense but I think they're looking at a 10 year plan, which is a bit short-sighted IMO. Ive thought about it, but there's just not enough of that type of work firing across my bow. I'll prob try and find an MCS fitter and give him a handsome rate to fit and commission and take the hit. This is my first enquiry for a job where I'm promoting the use of a heat pump, but with a huge area of Ufh, reasonable levels of air tightness and above average insulation etc I think that HP's are a no brainer for this job. The majority of used energy is going to be space heating and the Ufh company gave a delta flow of 28oC so pointless being able to massively exceed that with gas units. They've got 3-phase there so that sides comfortably sorted.

Pmsl. Sounds like a challenge lol

First thing that comes into my head is noise. Will people only be barefoot / socks / slippers upstairs? I've tiled a couple of bedrooms. No complaints tbh. Block and beam, or joists?

My 12v dewalt was SINGULARLY the hardest working cordless drill I ever owned ( for its size ). I lent mine to my stepdad about 5 years ago and he's still 'borrowing' it with it still going good guns. I've got a charger for that somewhere too if you want a spare . Anybody else want a standard makita charger? Don't bother with it now after buying the twin one . £209 or buy 2x dual for £120 ????

+1 but it's a lot easier to use them with these spacers too. Gives you a gap to get around the back of the pipe without fouling on the surface the clips are mounted to.

Howdy How did you find us?

I'd argue that it's not to do with the insulation, but to do with the temp range of the heat source maybe? Whats the quality of the build, Dave?