Nickfromwales

What is the detail of the bottom of the door? E.g. Distance to seal? I've planed the underside of upvc doors before to lose ( gain ) 3-4mm. Mother alternative is resin or Amtico / Karndean for that area with smoothing compound used to pitch the floor upward to meet your intended covering.

JCC is reasonably well known and quite widely used. Its more about the lamp and driver these days TBH, so as they're retrospectively interchangeable I'd not worry too much at this point. look at the hours lamp life and lumens for comparison and see how they compare to others in the same price range. Mini sun have supplied my last few jobs, very happy so far, and Cob are the led unit of choice if I can get the type I want.

Having no bath would alienate anyone with small children so would narrow the marketability of the property imo. One big electric ( modulating ) instant would be the same as a small gas combi, e.g. unable to provide DHW to multiple outlets simultaneously,so running multiple hot outlets would not be a concern TBH as you couldn't do so with either fuel type . Anyone with a combi would already be tuned to this discipline i.e. don't do the dishes when someone's in the shower etc. A smaller instant + electric shower may be a good solution, as if one fails you still get some hot water. E.g. Shower over bath goes down, but you can still fill the bath ( albeit slowly ). Fwiw, I'd never rent a property with all electric unless the EPC was good and I could SEE previous annual running costs from actual bills. Estimating how 'well' the new system will work will be difficult. The mention of fan-assisted panel heaters shows where the trend may be heading, so do a bit of research on how they perform vs wet heating radiators ( howsoever heated ) before going any further.

Learn something new every day .

No probs. Pm to follow.

That's cool, was in horror at the start, but when the fish and the waterfalls were on I was sold. Sell a child and get it. Only observation mate, check out the huge upstand / back to the cooker. That suggests this stuff is nigh-on completely intolerant to heat? Any specifics about that in the bumf? The shark swimming around was uber cool. That would be good in a bathroom, what size panels can they do?

The electric combis are called Storage boilers. Not great imo, but technology may have moved on Basically they're thermal stores and produce instant hot water via a neat exchanger. Great until they lose heat and deplete. Go for a heating only wet electrical boiler and then one big instant. Your electric supply will need to handle these of course. @JSHarris has good things to say about Steibel ( iirc ) so maybe he can add to this.

Electric central heating may not get a very warm reception from a tennant POV. To do constant HW you'll either need to store it in a big enough cylinder or go for big instants alongside the electric heating boiler. Cant you go all inclusive with the rent and have the gas feeding a communal system? Much easier and you can keep the combi. . Don't forget you'll need to fork out for a new separate supply if going all electric, individually ( self contained ) for both flats

Exercise bike + dynamo + wife?

Thermal mass ?!? Deflected heat in all of its guises Outward / sideways is the one given most consideration when siting two appliances alongside each other. Ultimately it's The manufacturers installation instructions ( MI's ) which overrule any guidelines, but when you have one appliance chucking heat out to the left and another back towards that appliance, you have to factor for 0% redundancy aka worst case ( both being used at the same time at full wallop ). Dimensions for rear 'clearance' should always be taken as per the MI's. Never assume fitting the hob centrally will suffice .

Cost ? Supplier? Any links please? ??

I've just done a modest Wren kitchen. £10,400 for materials and £5k installation costs ( everything except final coat of paint ). £20k? They're having a LAUGH

@readiescards has ventured down this path . He's going off grid. Maybe some leads / links paul ?

Welcome 'back' . Dont worry about funding . After taking inspiration from your good self, you'll now find a £1 token meter in the post to you for when you wish to access BH. £1 gets you 10 replies, bargain !

Leave the floor intact. Horizontal and up n over as per last comments. Safety plates where you cut the battens out so no chance of screwing into the cables when boarding .

Heat deflection from the gas hob is a problem some don't appreciate. Most hobs, however, only require 55mm from the splash back / rear elevation so it's hard to understand the logic, but when you tally up the possible opposing heat deflected from the adjacent hob the factors soon start multiplying. .

Welcome aboard .

If it's gone that soon I'd say it's because the pipe work wasn't flushed out properly prior to connection. It's most likely a bit of solder / crud that's got in there, so I'd start by stripping and cleaning the valve and see if the washer / pin is blocked. Can't tell from the pic, but most of these modern ones can be rotated 1/4 turn ( after removing a small plastic retaining clip ) and changed like a lightbulb, as these are mostly designed to be serviced from above ( back to wall pans with no access from underneath etc ). If it's all exposed then I'd just change it out for a new one. The Fluidmaster range is good and not too much £££'s. Pro series with brass thread

So I did. Knowledge is power. ?

Hearing that makes me a very happy man, in that I've got a screeder who leaves my floors so flat I don't need tile adhesive they just lay there flat. Paint it green and rack up the snooker balls. He works away so if anyone wants a top notch screeder then I'll give you my mans details. A couple on here already have . Datum points are a great help, and once on can be left for the duration. It also means you haven't got to leave a delicate, expensive laser set up, to either munch the batteries or get damaged ( or nicked ). Professional units take a beating, diy ones just don't seem to stay accurate after a couple of knocks / dust ingress. False economy imo as the job you want them to do is usually a very critical and expensive one. Also, once you own one you'll see just how much you end up using it. Professional units are far easier to resell too.

Make an OSB box for it and wrap it in towels with cardboard and hardboard corners for 'transporting'. If you get two tower scaffolds set up 'staggered' accordingly then you'll be able to get it up there, just make sure that you, your mates and the unit don't exceed the max working weight. Failing that, a pair of skids made out of 9"x3" 's and some lashing points for strong ropes. If the Egyptians can do it so can you . Dont forgot some timbers on the roof as skids if you've got final coverings on ( slates etc ).

Apologies for my late arrival I'd get a simple aluminium plate say 120 x 500 x 4mm and bond this to the underside of the two pieces of worktop. Use sikaflex as it's a better adhesive than CT1 imo, full bed on both surfaces combed at 90 degrees to each other for 100% bond / contact. Clamp the front and back whilst curing and it'll be like one piece. To compliment this, run an Alu angle behind the drawer unit ( front top rail ) again bonded with sikaflex. Combined with the resin, to complete the gap filling in the actual worktop material, I'm sure this will be sufficient.

RIGHT! Break it up now people. Time to get the chat into the relevant threads / topics. . @Nick, lead the way. .

The titan set in SF seems ok. http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-diamond-core-drill-8-piece-set/1154D?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Tools&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CJrh35CFydECFY8Q0wodZOYAxA Just borrowed my mates titan set as my 4" cup just wore out after about 9 years of abuse. Bloody good bit that was. Gutted. I can report that the titan one works perfectly well and is cheap enough to keep in the shed for 'whenever'