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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    You've got to be shitting me Oh, your not
  2. Nickfromwales
    Dai, it's going under his bath not on the wall you nutter !
  3. Nickfromwales
    I know most laminates and veneers can be made at least 10' / 3m so don't assume any size is unavailable I used to get sheets made for shop fitting which were 10' laminate sheets made from an 8'x4' sheet plus a 2' rip ( which were biscuit jointed together before the whole thing being glued and pressed ). Always ask what's available ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    Very expensive kite you've built there
  5. Nickfromwales
    Walk away son, just walk away
  6. Nickfromwales
    Nope. Extra sausage and omelette. Tres bien. ?
  7. Nickfromwales
    1) PMSL 2) They're chunky ok, but usually like a cheap internal door. A few strips of pine and all mdf / hardboard covered. Solid wood obviously would be as such.
  8. Nickfromwales
    1) PMSL 2) They're chunky ok, but usually like a cheap internal door. A few strips of pine and all mdf / hardboard covered. Solid wood obviously would be as such.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Many thanks. So 'unmanaged' is the one for me. Few heads better than one ☝️
  10. Nickfromwales
    Cat5 coming out and cat 6 going in If I don't get my finger out I'll be neck n neck with @Onoff's bathroom
  11. Nickfromwales
    Say something
  12. Nickfromwales
    Bracket free for me ?
  13. Nickfromwales
    This kind of stuff ? Or indeed toolstaion.
  14. Nickfromwales
    What size dowels / other go into the shelves? Id get some stainless threaded bar and drill through the d&d into the solid wall behind leaving the stainless protruding as the new dowels. Buy some resin anchor ( mastic gun one ) and fit the shelves on the wet fixings so it stays lined up and plumb / level. Stuff goes off in <5 mins after mixing in the nozzle. It's 2-part resin + hardener your looking for. Remove shelf and refit accordingly and job done. ? Eating a bacon roll, will look for a link.
  15. Nickfromwales
    How about this? 8 ports prob won't suffice. Seller refirbished with returns ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    For the upstairs bedrooms, aka mission control, I'll run a cable for each device. The less clutter at these points the better. I hear the advice on terminating theses cables as God intended, and I of all people should know better as I've made so many off I've lost count. It's the cost mainly at the moment tbh, so I'll likely make the second switch off, as discussed, in the summer and just make the plugs off as well as practicable for now. Fwiw, @TerryE, the cables all run to behind the devices, eg. trunked or chased into walls and emerging from single back boxes via bristle fronted cable exit plates ( whatever they're actually called escapes me right now ) and I've allowed a turn of slack at a metre before the plug goes into said gadget. Tripping hazard has been mitigated afaic, but kids will be kids so I'll make my oldest boys off into proper outlets ASAP as he's the PC man and every 0 or 1 that he gets starved of will be a day off my existence. Gutted : Plastered the wall yesterday that has the two 1g 'signal' outlets for the attic bedroom. I've got a lower one and an upper one, linked by a buried PVC waste pipe ( set into the eps ). Upper one is for the wall mounted smart, and out of that 1g box comes a cable for RGB led 'halo' lights to wrap around rear of the TV, a single cat5 for the TV, a speaker wire for the centre so it can be snug under the TV and fixed with a Vogel, and an HDMI lead. Too late to separate them and get a dedicated 1g box cut in for the proper outlet ( unless I have the proper outlet and just have the other cables come out of the other half of a modular face plate )? Lower one has 5 speaker cables coming out for surround amp to connect to, a single cat5 ( soon to be two, thanks to the heads-up from @Stones about the blue ray ) and the other end of the HDMI lead. Xbox and dvd both connect to surround amp which just happens to have hdmi switching on it, ( thank you Ebay bargain Onkyo surround for £62.50p in mint condition ), so only one HDMI lead needed. I reluctantly resigned myself from "system design" yesterday so we could start plastering ? but I fear a change today and some Easy-fill being required. Bugger10. Thanks again, all. ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    Simple and functional. ? Bugger, that was my plan. Currently have 2 points run this way ( 1 for each sons rooms ) and getting 90mb down and 9 up.
  18. Nickfromwales
    You calling me a tight-arse or advising me of a good purchase ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Any reason not to buy this cheaper one ? I'll pay more if it's justified ? Sorry for being a tight arse. ?☠
  20. Nickfromwales
    Virgin so no need for close proximity to the 'master' as it's a coax to the outside box and an F plug directly into virgins 'hub' do-dah. Im running cat5 ( as it was 'acquired' for next to nowt ). Agree that cat6 would have been better but my bank is stretched. ????
  21. Nickfromwales
    I hope they meant irrigation sprinklers Now......... "A tiny fire"? Let's have a quick reality check about domestic fire suppression sprinklers, me thinks. . 1) Sprinklers are for saving lives, NOT for saving property. A house can be repaired after a fire, the same cannot be said about you or your loved ones. 2) For a sprinkler head to activate, the fire needs to be fully involved and flash heat / flames need to be at the level of the sprinkler head in order to activate it. For eg opening the door of your roaring real wood burner to stoke it would not set the sprinklers off. Therefore : there can be no "tiny fire" setting off the dirty water sprinklers and spoiling your "irreplaceable Persian rug", as by the time the sprinklers go off your room would be near total loss already. Ring your insurers instead of the rug doctor . 3) There's no flames without smoke. Your smoke alarms should be screaming by the time flames get to ceiling height, and with such an early warning system you may even have opportunity to extinguish / tackle the fire before it gets out of hand / fully involved. NOTE : THE ADVICE OF THE FIRE BRIGADE IS "GET OUT AND STAY OUT, THEN GET THE FIRE BRIGADE OUT". Lives first, property second. 4) Modern sprinklers use the cold mains supply as it can't fail under fire condition. I'd be very interested to hear if / how the grey water is stored, SUFFICIENTLY, pressurised, and delivered with no external influence or dependency ( electric supply for one ). These systems need to be dumb and passive, so a giant accumulator must be the very least that they've had to house, integrate, filter and make suitable for water delivery during a power cut. ( If their using as discussed ) : They've gained ZERO by the embuggeration of using grey water, as it's not water saving until the place burns down! The extra cost of a self charging and self sustaining water storage and delivery system won't ever be justifiable. Bet they didn't mention that ?!?
  22. Nickfromwales
    Dare I ask if it works now?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Thanks. I can't recall if common switches have more than one 'in'. Would running two cat 5's between virgin do-dah and new switch have any merit? I guess your saying the first cable to the second switch is one 5-lane motorway of which I will only ever use 3 lanes? If so, the direction is as follows..... 1) Temporarily ( run an 'extension lead' ) to new 1st floor virgin router location and test for signal coverage. 2) If above is good, extend virgin feed and relocate the virgin router to the Harry Potter cupboard under the foot of the stairs to new attic bedroom. 3) Run electric to said location for a double socket and run all cat 5's to here. 4) Install a third party switch ( as linked in prior posts ) and connect to virgin router via a single factory made cat5 patch lead of decent manufacture. 5) Make all cat5's off per location and enjoy. Cool?
  24. Nickfromwales
    That's what I wanted to hear tbh. Phones and tablets on wifi ( soon to be located on 1st floor according to feedback here ) and just wire the virgin jobby to a switch via one cat 5 cable. Ill prob take the main tv straight off the 2nd port of the virgin one, but does that really matter? Do you get any degradation over the second leg and switch vs going into the virgin one? Thanks all ?
  25. Nickfromwales
    I've got my virgin wifi / router / hub thing in my 1st reception ( dining ) room downstairs. Now I need to get cat5's throughout the house and not enough outlets on the virgin do-dah. 1) Will the wifi be better with do-dah moved to mid house first floor, at floor level? 2) Can I take 1 cat5 out of do-dah and go to a larger ( more ports ) mains powered router at aforementioned location? 3) Should every cat5 device have its own run from point to point? Do I run one cable to the Xbox and another separate run to the smart tv above it, or can I split the cable behind the Xbox? Multiple rooms to do with same scenario. Mucho gratsi-arse. ?
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