Nickfromwales

@ProDave. Have you not tried Saxton Blades on eBay? Im paying around £1.50-£2.00 per blade max when buying packs of 10's or 20's

I think you may go down in forum history as one of the more tolerant folk . Good to see a new bulb has been fitted into the light at the end of your tunnel .

Hi and welcome aboard. Have a rummage around and don't worry about resurrecting dormant threads as it's always good to blow the dust off 'em Enjoy

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In that parts pic I can't see a flush pipe ( the little brother to item 2 in the previous ). It is around the same length and has a ribbed rubber washer to fit into the back of the pan.

Same one my sparky has just given me. . More nightime reading before parting with the hard-earned.

The first part is the euro pan connector. You should have had a 90-110mm adaptor with the frame. Do you have the pic of the components from when you bought it? I'm sure I saw one. The second part is the actual pan connector which goes onto the pan. It gets cut to length and filed to a chamfer. That then pushes into the first part ( which is held captive on the frame by the black plastic shoe and clip ). With me so far?

Sorry only now seeing this Yes, if you have the space for it ( them ). Why use a branch at all there ? Does the 110mm soil have to run passed the WC you pictured?

Nope. It'll last ok IMO. BUT, are we talking THIS CENTURY?

I agree with the stance, but i sacked one worker after he told my customer the same. Lasted till 10:00 and he was gone. What he should have said is "can I bring some clean steel toe capped trainers in as I need to wear PPE in work". So, as I'm in and out of customers houses, and they deserve some respect, I carry blue disposable hospital slippers / overshoes to go over my black work socks and like @ProDave would never go in wearing my boots. I need these people for me to earn a living so when they say "jump", and I say "how high ?" Bought a new pair of boots Saturday in SFix and they need to be comfortable when laced 70% up, so I can still wiggle them on or off without the delay. .

Yes. A lot of natural stone / travertine etc is very heavy per m2, but that can be combatted by fitting osb3 or marine ply first and then PB onto that with a few extra screws .

Use MR Plasterboard and tank it if your worried. . Cheap as chips to get a kit

I'd argue that the pen AND the sword are equally mighty

Let me eat this and I'll tell you. ( working today but a nice restaurant around the corner, lasagne was stunning )

Don't over-tighten them. Also a bit of clear CT1 on the underside of the fixing will do wonders. Don't worry about any excess squirting out, just clean it off with baby wipes and finish with MultiSolve spray.

You can sit it on mortar but remember to check your head height or the window won't fit

Fill your boots, your catching me up

Foam and frame sealant. This advice is for your small window. For eg I'd use concrete screws through the frame AND cill if this were French doors / similar or a large window. Edited to add. Don't forget to keep checking the cill for level whilst the foam cures. Best to weigh it down imo.

Water is ok to enter between the window and the cill, been done that way for many years by many fitters. You need to fix the frame to the cill, end of, and stainless screws coated in silicone will not let anything through to the cill cavity.

For a window that size, if it were me, I'd be fitting 6 screws. 2 top, 2 where the window slams shut and two at the bottom. With the foam and getting tiled in it's not going anywhere. I've fitted plenty of smaller ones with just the head fixed and the rest shimmed and foamed + frame sealant. Dont over think / do this one or you'll end up distorting the left and right legs. Damp the brickwork prior to applying LE ( pink ) foam and go have a brew. Hour or two later see just how good that is without screws and report back

I always pack and level the cill first and concrete or tapcon it to the foot of the opening, sealing accordingly after with a combination of foam and frame sealant. Cut the horns first as said. Dont pre drill the frame ! Always drill with the frame in situ as you may pre drill on a hollow mortar bed or worse. . I line it all up, window in position ( unglazed ), shim it in tight with wooden shims and foam all around. DOUBLE CHECK AT THIS POINT THAT THE FRAME IS PLUMB, LEVEL AND SQUARE. Once set, only then do I drill for mechanical fix.

A bit of self leveller in the gap and jobs a good un.

Son of a bitch edit : these are warm white Couldnt find a cool white one. That was the problem as all the other LEDs in the room were cool. But, Seek and and ye shall find....

Even the little push in pea sized 10 & 20w ones ?

Tonight's responses are sponsored by 'Gower Gold', brewed right here in Swansea no less. Tres bien.