Nickfromwales

Yup. Shouldn't matter if it's a smart charger as it'll charge according to the state of the battery. Mine stops and gives a 'fully charged' indication and then gives just a tiny tickle to maintain it.

Which make? Any links ?

Do you use a straw?

You need to get out more often

10

Nothing better than being covered in magnetic eps dust.

No building control recognition and subsequent registration of your new gas installation = no insurance. Put a reasonable price on that ? 30 years ago things were different, but in 2017 what advice should we suggest here, given our wide viewing audience, some of whom only read what's written here. ? 30 years ago all you needed on a construction site were Teflon coated Y-fronts and some sunblock. A bit different today where you need a high vis to fill your trolley in b&q. Lets advise according to 2016/17, and do it with the same passion, concern and conviction 'we' display when discussing say air tightness and insulation levels. . And yes, I'm quite passionate about this subject

You can box clever, buy these and then a naked impact etc and mix n match the tools, batteries and charger as necessary. One point not raised yet is the unreliability of gas guns in the extreme cold. I often have to take the gas out and warm it between my hands before my hitachi will fire, and then it's not 100% consistent. Dry, regular days are not a problem though, so just a point to consider. If I was in your shoes it would be a tough call but I think I'd go with the Dewalt tbh, due to gaining batteries and a charger. All depends on whether you have Dewalt tools already or not I suppose.

Happy days. ?

You wake up in the morning and everyone is alive for another day, by luck rather than good judgment. .

Agreed. Think of all the takeaway food you could order if you didn't spend £100's fitting the 'doomsday' cooker. The takeaways would cover you during the powercut btw, and you ring them off your mobile. Simples!

Much as I've done loads of gas work, it's all been either under 'supervision' or commissioned and signed of by a GSR fitter. I don't think I could live with the consequences of a fatality caused by my own hand, even worse if it's was one of my own family who died whilst I wasn't at home. There is ABSOLUTELY NO EXCUSE not to get a GSR fitter to test and commission pipework you've pulled point to point. None whatsoever other than just being too tight or failing to see the infinite value in doing so. 1) Sleep at night knowing your installation is safe. 2) Same for your family. 3) You can't get a completion certificate on a gas install unless done as above. Fitting it yourself afterwards is just a mind-numbingly bad idea. 4) Good luck claiming on your insurance if said, non-registered work, causes a fire or total loss of your home. You won't get a penny. How anyone one can see value in not paying for this to be done properly is beyond my comprehension.

I hate that loophole. If you are ok to do your own gas work, then, should you not, be the only person whom resides there?

+1 to going by the doorway. PIR light ( bright one ) and they're less likely to be hammering, chiselling or grinding in full view. I can never understand anyone putting it out of sight / rear etc as scrotes can then work away at it out of sight. I pointed this out to one customer who moved it the next day.

@JanetE Go for the plastic coated soft copper and endeavour to be 'joint free'. Remember that you'll have to remove the coating to get a bending machine to fit the radius . Re-cover with yellow electrical ( pvc ) tape, no probs there. You can mount the LPG bottled remotely, e.g. behind / alongside an outbuilding, or right at the rearmost quarter where they won't be seen. They don't have to be against the house, and fwiw, I'd prefer them well away from the skin of my TF house in case of a leak. Go for the best of all options :- 1) Fit small bottles. Lower line of sight for the 'cover' as you haven't got one single 5' bottle to try and hide. 2) Fit an auto-changeover arrangement with 2x small bottles. No running around in the rain with a spanner whilst the sprouts go cold. 3) You won't need to buy a gauge as you'll see the auto changeover indicator has 'flipped' and then just change the empty at your convenience as you'll know it's spent. 4) Soldering LPG is permissible ( quick google finds the regs ) in a fixed installation. Do not have a compression fitting where it's not accessible or in a void of any kind. You may end up using the gas hob more than you expect as, personally, I dislike cooking on electric, so think twice about a single bottle arrangement .

;)

Buildhub owns the rights for the book, so I'm hoping it'll sell more copies than Jordan's "legs wide shut".

1 minute at 8 chuffing bar would show just about anything. Crack on, I say. .

Multimeter is the first bit of kit you need. At the moment your just fumbling around in the dark . Get a reading off the battery and come back to us. Can you connect all the 12v stuff up directly to the battery and see if the charger actually did charge it? If not, can you check the fuse on the output side of the charger?

+1. Fit the pipes, let swmbo have the rug of her dreams ( "operation peace 'n' quiet' ) and fit a substantial floor board without worry. One previous job I did had posi joists with UFH pipes in Alu spreader plates. 22mm weyroc over the joists, then 6mm ply, then tile adhesive and then porcelain tiles. The only complaint was it was too warm in there. Heat will find its way through, trust me, and the rug is a very small area .

The alternative is to just say my name 3 times

Ness, I hope you're in good health.............. You know the drill, and great to have you back on board. If you wish to direct a question at a particular member, just type @ and then you'll be able to type the first letter of the members username and it'll pop up on a drop list. When you select it they'll get notified that you "mentioned" them in a topic. @Ness just like that. We've a much better board here with some great functionality, so posts and questions rarely go astray ( like they sometimes did on EB ). Now go back to intently staring at the foundations,

Tbh, the BCO has been good as gold. I'll not push my luck any further as we've been allowed historical regs for the basement flat which has saved a fortune. 2017 regs only kicking in on the upper floor as we're now doing an attic conversion ( so new works ) .

Change the akward to reach screws to hex or torx drive so there's less chance of them cam'ing out and getting stuck. Hex drive would be my choice here. The vado is a very nice looking tap, is the hard sale down to cost?

a) Fill it to the brim to simulate you sitting in it whilst it's full. b) Once solvent weld has gone off that's the end of the show mate. You'll be able to tow a car with that, a few knocks won't matter a toss. Adding glue will just create a skin which won't do anything whatsoever and will just peel away once cured. A bit more to this one. In your left hand you have the 'plughole', and two rubber washers. I usually ditch the upper one and make that up entirely out of sika. The conical one is where the thinking is applied. Does the conical one fit the profile of the bath reasonably well, or does it hold the waste off the floor of the bath a lot? If the latter, then I'd ditch that one also and pack out with sika. Tightening the fitting will displace any excess sealant so just load it up according to the gap you know exists + 25%. The only important part of that marriage is the underside of the 'plughole' being sealed against the upper face of the hole in the bath. The seals are a secondary consideration IMO, BUT, if the rubber seals just happen to match the bath perfectly you can get away with a sealant-free installation that doesn't leak. Doesn't happen very often btw as these are universal wastes . The rubber seal on the waste arrangement is a pretty good seal on its own. Hand tight, that probably wouldn't leak, it's just down to the accuracy of the finish where the underside of the bath has been ground down to create the seat face. I'd apply just a very thin smear of sika to the underside of that seal ( removing it from the waste to do so ) and then refit it loosely. Then apply another smear to the ribbed face ( which will be in contact with the bath ), with another smear on the bath underside itself, to soak up any imperfection in the casting. Once you've done that and are ready to assemble, the tricky part is to pass the plughole through the various openings / seals etc WITHOUT getting any sealant migrating to the inside of the plughole or waste. Look through the centre during installation to ensure this is so. LAST important note is not to allow ANY rotation of the waste during FINAL tightening. The reason for that is the rubber seal on the waste is now lubricated so it'll get pushed out of position by pressure and motion. Pressure ( created by the plughole getting rotated into the static waste during final tightening ) is fine, but movement during this process is fatal. Remember not to over tighten too, as the sealant will recreate the job of the seals it replaces, and do a better job. Just a smear on the ribbed face will be more than plenty. As this never sees any pressure / weight of water, it needs almost nothing other than the factory arrangement. Hand tight and nowt else. These are bombproof. Same with the plastic trap nut. Just be sure to de-burr the inside of the waste pipe at every joint to stop hair from snagging ( which I'll bet my left nut you've already done anyhoo ). Only thing I've ever had go wrong with these baths when new and out of the packaging is a leaking jet / inlet / outlet, where some goon has used it to lift the bath / struck it at some point. A soak test will show this immediately, ( over a couple of hours ). Running the pump with the bath full is the only way to check for leaks under pressure. Have some anti-foam droplets ready.