Nickfromwales

@recoveringacademic Ian, I've a red ( plastic ) laser finder doodaa in my Bosch kit I can post you if you want a lend?

Hi Nig I'm in Swansea too so pm me when the site kettle is hooked up . Want to save £100 a day ? I'm in the process of having a sprinkler system installed for my current client, (hydraulic calcs done and pipework 2/3 complete ), and the installer / commissioning agent has pre-advised of a very slim chance of having to have a small inline booster pump at the stopcock, but says he doubts it. Straight off the WW main on a 32mm main and 32mm stopcock. Same supply branches off inside to give me a tapping to take the domestic cold mains to the same flat. Getting a bit over 4 bar static iirc, have you checked the pressure where you are? Maybe you could have proposed a stored water system utilising accumulators which could have gone in unused eave space / garage attic space etc, charged once by a pump and then your only relying on stored energy for discharging. Also, my installed say there's been one reported case that he knows of where occupants died in a fire where a sprinkler system failed to go off, as the occupants / other had painted over the sprinkler heads so they failed to operate. Education is still needed here so that'll fall down to me I suppose to convey this important information onwards (rental property). . No reported cases from my guy re heads going off inadvertently, but only his feedback to go on so far tbh. Anyhoo, Welcome 'back' to the madhouse . Keep us updated. ?

Willis heater doing his space heating as pre-heater for the UFH manifold.

Sweet. Brazed will be a doddle.

Much easier. Have you got leaded solder?

If you like big gaps between the skirt and the plaster, then yes ✌️️ I use a far thinner product, such as Sticks Like ? which you can easily depress / displace. Pink grip and Gripfill are notoriously difficult to do either with, and they also skin over within a minute or so, so not really suitable for skirts imo.

Block built would mean you HAVE to drill and screw the skirts .

I use this or this and never get yellowing. I always wipe the excess spray off, but with MDF or pine I've never had any issues. The spray will run out quicker than the glue so get some spare cans . For the skirting and arcs I would deffo hire a second fix nailer. The cost will be offset by the speed at which you can fix the arcs and skirts, plus the saving of not having to fill sand and re-finish them. Screwing them can cause them to be pulled in and create undulations in MDF, but not so problematic in pine / timber.

?. As brittle as terracotta ? 25mm thick terracotta tiles have been used since man 'needed' a nice looking floor covering If the floor is prepped and primed accordingly, and these are laid in a good quality flexible tile adhesive then I really can't see any problem. These are suited to the most harsh environment, eg outdoors, so inside your home would be a pleasant change for them. My only reservation is how square and neat a slip you'll be going for, as an engineering grade slip will chip on any exposed corner / edge with ease and could soon look worse for 'wear'. I assume you'll grout them with a sand cement mortar to mimic the facade?

+1, but the linings have to be spot on to pre make the arcs. I'm suprised no-ones actually told you this is a 'screw only' job . You'll not be nailing these directly to the studs as they're not / won't be A) good enough or B) the correct dimensions. The norm is to set one side plumb and level, and pack accordingly, screwing through or directly next to the packers. Then the frame will then be X distance short of meeting the opposite side stud, so will also need packing and screwing accordingly. Before I go into chapter and verse, are you familiar with how to make a lining up ready to offer into the opening? Eg sized and square etc.

I wouldn't go lower than ~14 volts for high drain tools like saws etc. 18v and 4.0ah seems a great combination for most of my kit, with my SDS drill taking 2x 18v to make 36v.

I wouldn't surface mount the strip for any reason whatsoever. This is not an area that you want to have any possible weak points As said, it's not for us to decide, it's your BCO who will be giving / not giving the completion certificate so theyve got the final say.

The new batteries have charge indicators on them. A little button and 4 LEDs to show how much juice is in it. Also seriously consider going brushless, ( induction motors ) as they wear, and seem to operate, far better. Less chance of 'burning' them out too. Live just upgraded from the old 165m makita to the brushless one ( complete with onboard battery indicator ) and it's far better. Unless you see yourself using the recip and grinder a lot I'd just buy the circular saw, case, chart and batteries ( 2x 4.0ah are plenty, I think the 5&6's are way OTT tbh ) and then just buy a 2-speed combi drill for general drilling / screwing etc. When an impact comes up cheap, naked, then add that if so required. I have a 2-speed 18v makita combi drill / driver I could let go of you are ok with used ?

Wash your mouth out ? All the girls from Essex are wholesome churchgoing folk.

Check out @TerryE's blog for the one thats ready to go.

Don't buy either, stop running out of oil, and save all the expense for when you change to the TS / UVC+buffer. . It ain't broke so don't fix it ?

Multi-Tool with a bi-metal blade and some masking tape set 5mm higher than the cut as a depth gauge. No prob hitting a nail with an all purpose blade . If theres a lot to lift then I'm with @Onoff with the circular. @Ferdinand, are these being left exposed or is there flooring going down after?

Just need to look at how much sun the new shed roof will get through the day ?. Already thinking of a giant ( 1500-2000L ) DIY TS to go before the combi for DHW preheat / uplift, heated by my chimnea, but I had also thought of reclaimed panel radiators paints black for DIY ST too, just the weight had put me off as I'd have to beef the shed up to take it. Beer can collector should be a lot lighter ?

Strange, as the BCO usually tells the plumber what the requirements are and then leaves them to execute it, but if your guy has left you to interpret it and get a plumbers PoV then fair enough . BCO's down here are very helpful so good to hear yours is too.

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Good idea. A small 230v fan heater on its lower setting will work far better TBH. Try and get a <500w heater like this 200-500w one.

No, there is a better way . My local mechanic got fed up of people literally parking across his roller shutter doors, the only access to his business. He put two big signs up, on either side saying words to the effect of :- " Strictly no parking. Please be advised that vehicle vandalism occurs here. Smashed windows, dented panels, nails left under wheels on purpose, so park here at your own risk" etc. Works a treat. The fear of something happening is usually more productive than it actually being done, as people can get angry if not warned and "something" happens, but they can only be remorseful if it happens AFTER they accept the "risk".

Your BCO is being really ridiculous here IMO. The furthest WC on that run ( ensuite ) immediately runs to horizontal, therefore you'll immediately get an air-break ( water sitting low in the pipe so air can travel in the remaining gap above it ), so it's total nonsense afaic. For the ensuite basin, just fit one of these and tell him to go back into his cave. That air admittance trap will also cover you for the ensuite shower connection so nothing needed there either. The ONLY time that run will see the vacuum deficit that the air admittance is there to mitigate will be when the slug of water from the flush drops vertically, eg at the main stack 'drop', and that is covered by the stack being vented to atmosphere, so I really don't see any issue here at all. And where the hell did he get 25mm pipework from? 32mm would be the standard and you can get a 32mm AAV.

Can you give Paul some examples of how he can 'run' some numbers Nick? @readiescards, are you planning on using multiples of those little heaters? Maybe better to add some more batteries as well as panels to create a buffer, also may give you some 'sustain' for when the sun goes in, as in the heaters will still run. Prob best to fit an audible low voltage warning so you don't inadvertently over-drain the batts. Do you have an inverter for the panels to run on mains voltage?

Ok, remind us why your raising them on platforms rather than everything flat on the floor please