Nickfromwales

It would be the only version of Big Brother I'd ever watch

I get where you're going with the step. The LED strip will be part-in the void left by the 'stagger' I guess, but what'll you do to finish the tile edge ? I'd prob do that tile cut and then turn it around so the factory cut is facing the void and the cut you make is against the trim, and then mitre bond an L shape trim to it to give a clean edge. I'd do a drawing but I'm on coffee #1 and just can't be arsed yet ?.

+1

I've got one of these, as well as a 4mm pass / 23mm rebating planer, BFOff router, and god knows what else that will try and take me out if I ever turn my back on it. When I use that chop saw, it's with the same concentration and respect every time. That would remove an entire hand without you even feeling it. I also use it to cut aluminium and brass tile edge trims, for the laser precise cuts, and it gets the heart pumping I can tell you. The one tool i strongly distrust / dislike / whatever is the 18v circular saw. Powerful enough to do all I ask of it, but underpowered enough to catch and bite. This lifts the saw up and out, backwards, straight towards you. My golden rule with the circular saws is never to be behind it, but always to be beside it and out of its path, should it decide to 'do one'. I put my 230v circular down a while back whilst the blade was still at near full wallop. Only problem was I hadn't used it for a while and the first cut saw the blade guard wedge at top dead centre leaving the full blade exposed. When that hit the concrete floor I nearly shat a brick. Must have travelled at least a metre in about a half second, but with my lobster like grip only tightening as my stupid brain refused to let it go . Watch yourselves people, as power tools don't take hostages.

And can I talk you through taking the cover off and taking a pic of the back of the clock? Those grasslin clocks are just about as reliable as you can get, so I'd bet my arse it's wired ( arse ) backwards . So, with the power switched off.......... The pic you've taken of the clock shows a silver screw. It has a matching buddy the other side. Loosen and remove them and the panel will swing down. You'll see a square panel at the back of the clock which is the retention 'plate'. It'll have two smaller screws at two opposite corners.......remove those too. Remember how it comes off as its a pita to get back on . Once the screws have been removed from the plate lift it off. The clock is now free to move and certainly will. Take a pic of the wires as clearly as you can and post back. My money is on the number one common fack up, which is the 230v mains connected to the volt free contacts of the switch, and the switching pair on t'other ( motor feed ). Other than that it could be that they took the short cut ( avoided connecting it ) and left the factory 4-way moulded block in there ( which connects the switching pair together so the boiler will work for heating and hot water as normal, and isolates the mains feed also ). Go get your screwdriver.

@Calvinmiddle Did it work, and then stop working?

IP cameras you say? I'll take the night watch, safety first folks

Tidy. Everything I can see there I can cut n shut. . Thanks for the pics. ?

Thanks. I want some for my boys room. Is that 4-core cable, and can you cut and alter it?

Do you have a link to the ones that keep their colour through power on / off events please? ?

That is looking a LOT like a bathroom.

? ☔️

They're not going into your spam email are they?

I thought that was unnecessary if you have sufficient land drainage / SUDS mitigation measures?

That deserves a slap.

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Revenge is MIIIIIIIIIIINE

Are you saying he pulled speedfit all the way to the rad valve?

Clean it back with emery cloth, whip it with self amalgamating tape and move on with your life. ??

In all of my site inductions we've been reminded that "we're each responsible for our own safety". When you invite others you then become responsible for them. Basically it's a minefield. Oh, and let's not forget the ones who'll injure themselves whilst doing something wrong and then adjust the circumstances, whilst your backs turned, and push the fault, and subsequent liability, onto you. For the benefit of our female readers I won't repeat the word I use to describe those bottom feeders.

That completely depends upon whether or not you need to be fully competent from the word go

If he was told there were 2 leaks then it shows little or no effort to locate the second one imo. Id ask for a reasonable reduction in cost for the second drain down, seeing that it was already identified for him to solve. the argument is that you weren't there to demonstrate it to him and, if it were me, I'd have sprayed a paint over the leaking joint ( if I knew I couldn't be present at the time he called ). Id ask to settle at £260 flat.

Just banned my boy for 1hr for chopsing to swmbo. Like the sky had fallen. ?

Keeping in mind that a crap induction hob will still suck 40a, and a tidy one over 50a. That wouldn't be a small generator.