Nickfromwales

This is on the intake, so theoretically you'll never get any problems from any nasties / spores etc as they would be getting pulled up and out ?

????? @jack how much was your unit if you don't mind, please?

Crikey. 2.4 m mounting height ! @jack, how is yours positioned for cleaning / maintenance / replacement etc? 67% ( manufacturers quoted efficiency ) isn't to be sniffed at TBH. Different models suitable for first floor showers ( 2m long vertical tubular type ) with other models specified for ground floor ( big shoe box basically ). Interesting that it says NOT to insulate the unit itself ( pipework to be insulated ), unit to be kept below 25oC ambient, and ( preheated side ) pipework to be kept 3m or shorter ( to achieve max efficiency ). Mounting and locating this unit should really be included as a design consideration, before your builder gets the tools out .

You read my mind ?

It is......and don't call me Shirley

Seems a lot of hassle for little reward to me, especially the tank option, not to mention cleaning and maintenance headaches. DIY sounds like it would give you a sense of achievement for less bucks, but not much more. Iirc, @jack has these fitted. Any performance statistics anyone?

That has to be, singularly, the best post so far in 2017 You sir, are a legend. PMSL.

PMSL You don't think ?!? FFS........ Ill buy you the bastard thing if you hurry up and get some tiles on. ? ??????

I'm already in contact. .

?

Oops already hoovered them up .

Agreed re the closure of Ebuild, as I can vouch first hand about that ?. I have 'politely requested' that folk stick to facts and refrain from anything that could be seen as insulting or personally offensive, but it appears that I may need to further promote our policy on that. Fwiw, if I let every little thing get me down, I'd be downy McDown of Downton Abbey, so I've instead just got slightly thicker skin now . Accepting the fact that not everyone gets on with everyone, I'm happy to live with the remainder whom I do get on with and focus solely on that. Life is too short to be affected by the minority and, trust me, I'm not everyone's cup of tea I assure you.

Probably best to mention that your building the forums smallest house Welcome aboard Jimbo. Check out the various threads that related to your enquiries and glean what you can. There is a hell of a lot of sound, impartial and honest advice here.....both the good and the mistakes, so strap yourself in and enjoy the ride

Jewsons have seen me twice in 10 years prob. Once it was for egg mould skirting which I needed regardless of price there and then, and another time where I laughed in the guys face and put everything back on the shelves before leaving in disbelief. I explained I was in the trade and they asked for me to open an account. No ta. I don't use credit accounts anywhere and much prefer to pay for my stuff as I order it so I can agree rates AS I purchase, not argue after an incorrect bill arrives 30-60 days later . A word with the area Rep sometimes helps but the lines of communication are often crossed at best with anyone you don't use routinely.

Yup. The soft line are a very nice rad.

Yes, An assumption of ground floor, sorry. Re the moisture from the screed, at the very worst you'd benefit from treated timber for the sole plates IF you start the framework before the screed has fully dried ( about a day per 2mm unless it's stated other ). If the screed is surface dry then most adhesives would work but I particularly dislike GF as it forms a skin pretty much as your applying it ?. If the house is slightly cold / humid then it's really unsuitable TBH. Fwiw, single part PU actually benefits from moisture and it helps it cure.

? Been 20/7 last week so I'll update re trim cutting etc ASAP ?

Use clothes pegs 30mm apart and line up the trims. Run some insulation tape over the joint to stop any excess bond from escaping and stitch it with spot welds of mitre bond. Wait 5 mins and remove pegs. Repeat for the gaps in between any shes a good 'un. ? Edit to add : obviously you'll need to cut the mitres on the front strip and assemble this during the tiling process as and when practicable.

Screed will be soft as butter 24 / 48 hrs after laying. You need at least 2 days before walking / heavy traffic ideally. Thunderbolting into screed that's less than a week old will be useless as the bolts will just turn into drill bits and tear the screed out. As far as grip fill ( GF ) is concerned, you'd need to put some under the DPC and on top to get any actual purchase as the DPC will separate the timber from the screed. If I was looking for any kind of bond TBH I'd use D4 PU glue not GF as it expands to fill the voids, stays 'open' much longer than GF and is far quicker to work with. GF would be a last resort for me, if I didn't have anything else in the van . I take it there's either no UFH or no Ufh pipes at the sole plate positions?

I would simply whack stop ends on the terminations and pressurise to cold mains max potential via the manifolds. Will they be in at the point of initial testing?

That's a good option if you have less than the target test pressure available. @TerryE, are you doing continuous single radial runs?

Make sure you've got some long ropes , and some heavy set friends to hold them

I'd prob tank the top of the bath boxing and upstand. With a good seal fortified with clear CT1 that would be belt n 2 braces. You'll be buying a tanking kit anyhoo, so just buy a large kit and coat the ply top with liquid membrane. SBR may be another option, but I don't use that typically for tiling.

Yup. And they're always not worth a w**k unless you've spent big bucks on a brand name bath. Multitool them off with real care if they're in the way.