Nickfromwales

Or blow a fortune ( if aftersales is ok with the alternatives of course ).

Job done ? .

The reason I'm not rich ?

+1 on Crosswater and Vado, not heard of Vellamo TBH. Just check that the taps are entirely serviceable from the front. Maybe a good idea to source some replacement cartridges now, and stash them for later in life. .

You need a holiday mate

My tip would be less eloquent......"use whatever ? you have laying around as you'll never see it again" .

I'm just getting warmed up ?

Some things you can overthink . Like @Onoff's bathroom

Indeed lol. 4 wires? Are we sure this isn't an old intermediate switch location that's been converted to run the percussion delay switches? Firstly we need to know how many more switches control these lights. If its 3 ( 2x landing 1x hall etc ) then we need to see inside those to, to ascertain what were dealing with BEFORE assuming anything. As alwsys, WITH THE POWER TURNED OFF . This is old wiring, older than the delay switches for sure, so let's see what's lurking before leaping.

And oil is sooooo much easier to retrospectively re-finish ( tart back up ) with.

Liking it, but the shed roof would need to produce wet thermal heat to warm my TS's ? Got me thinking of an 'active' roof now made at a steeper angle out of 30mm box section steel...... ? Back to work.

That's going to be a nice garage . Pretty cool to be underground, what's going on top? Will it be kind of invisible?

How shallow an angle can you mount these at?

My, what an impressive pecker you have ??

Door lining 'kits' come with the head set out for each door size, 30" or 33" are typical, and have rebates in the head to accept the legs. Those rebates are the size of the door plus the required gap so you don't need to calculate anything. Forget trying to build the studs to take the lining direct as the stud work will just not be straight enough, and usually has a slight twist too, so allow a 5-8mm gap over the overall width of the lining, either side, to accommodate packing accordingly. You need to allow for flooring when affixing the linings so that you end up with a 3-5mm gap between the floor and the underside of the door. With wooden flooring I'd make that a minimum of 8mm to allow for a small stone to have been carried in by someone's shoe, which, if caught under the door, will leave a lovely arch shaped deep scratch as the door drags it across when opened / closed . Put a 600mm spirit level on the floor where the lining is to be fitted. If it's out, work out by how much and cut a packer / shim. Sit that packer under the leg that's low prior to starting affixing the lining. Fix the hinge side first, plumb and true, and take your damn time doing so. This extra effort now will save masses of grief and planing etc when you come to actually 'swing' ( mount ) the door, so basically invest lots of time on the linings and the doors will swing themselves. As you pack and screw the lining, working from the top down, you'll need a framing level ( 1800mm ) to use as a straight edge to check that your lining is perfectly flat all the way through each fixing interval. Try and coincide with the hinges but not exactly in line, just above or below so you don't get a conflict when cutting the hinges in. Space the screws ( 2 per interval ) quite wide apart, which will allow you to train the lining to stay at 90o to the wall parallel. Fix the opposite leg again working from the top down and check the opening size each time to ensure your not tapering in / out. Its easier if you have a door there so you can hold it it in the opening when you've finished screwing up, to check you've got equal gaps at the sides and head. Just a brief glance will identify any problems, but the framing level is your friend so you should be all good. Drink beer, and relax.

Nah, just braze them then.

Go for this type of thing for the interim, cheap and not compo'd in . Weathertight and ventilated

'Compo' aka sand / cement mix. . Theyre bedded in well but often aren't ever 100%. They deflect the majority but some rain inevitably gets through, plus what gets windswept into the pot.

With @PeterW as my labourer edited to add : ✌️✌✌✌

Hi and welcome. .

Profile page says Cardiff so as a im a Swansea boy I can't POSSIBLY offer any advice Welcome aboard, we could do with another Welshman on here .

Sell all these things and put the money towards an UVC or TS. Ever heard the phrase "good money after bad"?

The salamanders are cracking pumps. If you Google that one you may find it has brass impellers.

? The problem is particularly acute if a shower / bath booster pump is fitted. It can actually invalidate the warranty.

Your not supposed to have the two at the same end as the splashing water has bubbles and your supposed to avoid drawing that out so as to avoid drawing air into the system, to reduce possible air locks. Maybe drill the tank connector through and slide the 22mm pipe all the way to the other end to make a dip pipe . This is to alleviate problems when the tank is nearing empty / has low water levels btw, so don't look at it from splashing up high POV. ?