Nickfromwales

22 to the bath is pointless TBH, as most modern taps are 1/4 turn with small bore innards. . I'd use 15mm, as with 3-4 bar / 17lpm flow available you'll not really notice any reduction in resistance going to the bigger pipe size. 22 is only really for huge baths with full bore fillers, pumped baths or for gravity fed hot water supplies. ?

Try some leak detection fluid

???

I just tap with the back of my finger knuckle and use 'tradesman echo location'. People can't believe how accurate that is. .

? Sorted ?

Not too shabby . ?

Is the toilet seat soft close? H&S first eh? .

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I wrote this on Ebuild. "The weyrock comes in a 600x2400 format so they'll generally be laid at 90 degrees to the joists. You'll then have around 6 joists (if the joists are at 400mm centres ) per board to fix into. Over the 600 width I always fit 5 screws, 1 in each end 50mm in and 1 in the middle of the board. Then another 2 screws in the remaining gaps. PU ( polyurethane ) glue ( or 7 day glue as I call it as that's how long it takes to get off your hands !) is an expanding glue similar to expanding foam bought in a can but is applied like a liquid/pva glue. This stuff starts to cure within 60 seconds or so of being open to atmosphere so never glue up more than one board at a time!!! Dry cut and lay your first row of boards, and mark the joist with the outline so you don't put down more glue than you need ( I stop 50mm short of every board as the glue typically expands to the end anyway and it saves cleaning of excess cured glue when on the next dry run). Lift the boards, appy glue to joist tops and lay your first row of boards to suit, gluing the 600 tongues but NOT the long tongues. Have a dry full board handy at this stage and span it across the joint of the first two boards, as this will tell you if the first run is nice and straight. Only then start screwing the first boards down. NOTE, the glue goes off in about 5 mins, so don't hang about. You need to be on your toes with this and have all things needed close to hand. Screw, glue and repeat as required ! :-)The screws need to be 2" or 2 1/2" No.10's ideally, which is what I use, as No.8's tend to have a small head and pull through the boards. The important part is NOT to use a screw which us fully threaded ( has thread from tip to head ). The ones I use are part threaded with about 1/2" of clear shank before the head. The reason for this is fully threaded screws tend to promote 'jacking', which is where the screw goes through the board, hits the joist and then lifts the board slightly before the screw bites and pulls into the joist. Unless you ram the screw half way into the wayrock to pull this gap closed ( bad thing to do ) then you will be left with gaps and that point of the flooring being supported by the screw. :-( Screw the part threaded ( flooring ) screw into the board and stop when the screw head is just under flush with the top of the wayrock. Don't keep tightening as most good cordless drills, particularly impact drills, will happily pull the screw right through the wayrock, and out the other side. The fact that the screw head starts to pull through and countersink itself tells you that the board is tight against the joist so stop there!Speed is of the essence here as the glue is great, but goes off really fast. Before laying your next row of boards, check under the previous tongues for any excess cured glue and remove if necessary, as that'll stop the boards fitting snug into the next groove. A good idea is to have a can of gun grade foam 'cleaner' handy to keep tools and hands clean as this glue is a bugger to clean off when cured. I @!## you not :-@ don't apply more glue than needed as this will expand about 20 times its original mass, less is more. If you see a lot of uncured glue oozing out of the joints when you bring the boards together you've used too much! Seeing expanded cured glue coming out after is normal though and means you're joints are solid. Regards, nick." The rest of the thread is here.

The last let I stayed in had UFH and a simple laminated card saying "Please set the room thermostats to 21oC for heating. Please turn off when you vacate" or words to that effect. That's what we did and at 20oC the place never overheated and never went cold.

Is anyone taking into consideration the ventilation heat loss form the wood burning stove? On a a very windy, bitterly cold day / night, what will be needed to keep the place comfortable?

Best to add that T&G osb is also available so actually could be used for deck material. . I'd not use bare sheet of any type as the joints absolutely must be T&G'd for uniform support under foot / point load. Edit to add : P5 is moisture resistant and usually cheaper. OSB3 is overkill imo.

You don't take instructions from your contractor, you issue them. If they won't do as you ask them you tell them to FO, simple. Explain your issues to date, and advice so far, and politely explain that your not telling them how to do their job but you are asking for certain disciplines to be observed in order to not be doing the job for a third time . The battens not being fitted, as well as the metal brackets not being fitted is just ? workmanship, and is showing the original installers true colours. Best to flush him and keep the money back required to complete the job. He should have sealed the bath to the wall ( including batten top ) AND fundamentally sealed the bath to the wall PRIOR to tiling and have identified the defects with the bath......that's '1st year apprentice bad' so he doesn't have a leg to stand on afaic. Keep the pressure on VP and pester the life out of them until you get credit at least. Ask them if they do the shower screen / curtain combo and go for that.

You could sleeve them with 6" off cuts too so you get a bit of movement later . Just set the sleeves down into exp foam so the concrete doesn't creep in. I had to relocate 3 SVP's in one job and that was a real bastard of a job. Foresight like this would have made things SO much easier. .

I'd go for it. Any less work to do later is a bonus in my book . Make sure your capping / taping all these pipe ends thoroughly ?

The 'al' in Pex-al-pex is indeed metal, aluminium to be precise. . And yes, you can dance on the stuff TBH, with damage only ever occurring from too tight a bending radius or nails / screws. If you had some atop of the rebar / mesh then stepping on it between points of suspension wouldn't go well, so just be mindful and control access to the site before your pour so no such accidents can happen.

Why not bond 30mm eps straight down and do away with the battens? The compromise in insulation will be helped a little by the lack of cold bridging through the battens. Just lay a floating floor, such as engineered laminate, and you've got a build up of less than 50mm. Doesn't help for the carpet / vinyl'd areas though as that would need a min of 18mm t&g deck regardless. Next question is though, why not insulate under the floor and ditch this huge ball ache altogether? Does the property have floorboards over joists, or do you have a mix / all concrete or screeded floors?

I'm more focussed on its use in habitable dwellings , ( and my shed will also have a lot of EPS in it ).

I don't think warranties GET any better "Lifetime of the house or infinity, whichever comes first" !!!

I don't mind it under my feet ( under slab ) and I'm of mixed emotions when it's behind plasterboard as IWI, but after that I don't want it anywhere, regardless of whether it's 'bagged' / other. The stuff is simply horrendous when it burns so I think this thread should focus more on where NOT to put it, and to reiterate its destructive qualities when intoduced to the likes of pvc.

What consideration should we apply here to its effects when subject to fire? I'd rather bin it than fill my attic with it TBH.

I'd make an engineering brick plinth for the prop, at least 300mm from the floor, bedded on something far more substantial TBH. Cement is not a great solution imo.

Ok, a bit of a digression from the op . I'm not going to point the finger of blame.......... So you've dug out by hand so far?

No you won't! ?

Ok. The bulge in the bath is most definitely because the batten is causing the bath to distort. I think this is all pointing in one direction......bye bye bath. I also think thats a lot more than a 'couple' of mm dog ear. . Some pills for your fitter to swallow..... 1) He advised you to purchase that bath. 2) He stated its robust etc 3) he stated its wonky and weak enough for the screen to bend the bath ; contradicting #2 4) Srceens screw into the wall channel and by no means should ever weigh the bath down as that would crush the seal strip so makes #3 a load of bullshit 5) He should have identified the defects prior to final fixibgvthe bath, end of subject. For you.... 1) You haven't landed the best fitters, but they've come back to address the problems which shows at least some integrity. That's obviously helped by the fact there's money owing. 2) Approach VP immediately yourself as the bath is unfit for purpose and suffers from obvious manufacturing defects. Time to argue that one out but try and agree on a credit towards buying a Trojan Cast ( reinforced ) bath from them rather than a refund. If they offer a refund then great, but I think you'll need to settle on middle ground TBH. 3) Insist the new bath is fitted to a wall mounted batten that runs for the 3 full sides that meet the wall, a standard that I observe for every bath I fit ( the brackets they've used always go in the bin on my jobs ). 4) Get the bath set into Sikaflex EBT and levelled accordingly. Leave that for a good 12 hrs to cure and then use the same to fundamentally seal the bath to the wall. Replace the tiles and use a coloured silicone to seal the bath to the tiles ( cosmetic / splashproof seal ). 5) Get the fixed screen / curtain combo and enjoy. These guys fit bathrooms and charge for it. Best they do it properly or leave the money there for someone else to come behind them. It's your confidence in them that's the deciding factor.