Nickfromwales

Only ok if you don't want a connection on site .

Only when it's ringing .

That's better. I knew if you applied yourself properly you'd pull it out of the bag Its down to space and centres now though. A better option is cut the existing tee out of the vertical pipe and put the corner branch there. No need for any Y branches or flow management then, plus both pipes will be in the same void at the same level so 'hidden' until they rise vertically under the WC's.

Nope. Flat Y branch on a run with no fall I would have last night but my wife wasn't home and I'm not allowed the sharpener ?

Dees pic.

Not ideal TBH as that creates the 'stall' I mentioned. I'll actually post a pic ASAP.

That's exactly what I would do TBH. If you get them involved it'll be time, and possibly expense. Oh, and more time. Any decent sparky can pull this kit and reinstate it. We can talk you through it if you wish . Some pics of the installed line etc at boundary to house may help. Drop wire ( overhead ) or underground at mo?

We'll review this exchange tomorrow and see where we go from there There are no big fish in this pond.

@Dee Ill do a pic later .

It was one of these @Dee Linky McLink

Are they both under the boards / in the void, or are they entering the soil pipe at different heights? Edit : will there be two separate connections to the vertical pipe, or one that tees for the first loo and then continues on to pick up the second one? So one run rather than two separate runs to each loo?

They died so young ?

Yup, my mates got the Dewalt and he's hammered it for years. Still works like new.

Our own crofter has a great blog about his 'wee hoos' here... And welcome to the forum .

Good idea. A rotary laser would be a nightmare for tiling, and you would benefit from the cross-line too, but cross-line isn't essential as almost all of your setting out will be on the horizontal TBH.

Bloody hell, that's a quick sketch

Buy non socketed pipe lengths and fit couplers in the joist spaces. Notch the most nearest the stack and the least at the far end and you really don't need much fall at all tbh. I've run a 5m length from an ensuite previously and it had to lay flat, and I mean flat. Worked perfectly well just off the momentum of the flush and I could check as it ended in an inspection chamber. Biggest concern here is whether or not you can tee the 'middle' loo in with a Y branch and not a T branch. The flow of water from that one really needs to be directed so it doesn't stall in the pipe or split half left and half right.

Don't notch the underside of the upper joist, notch the top of the lower one. 130mm ? What are you measuring . ?

Had a query for a job, and need some ideas . Bathroom ( ensuite ) with separate shower and bath, basin and WC, customers hate fans so use cross ventilation ( Windows ) when using the shower etc, don't ask. They've opted to go for a demister pad behind the large bespoke mirror and I'm wondering what's most practical to switch it on / off as required. First thought was off the lights, but with 4 lighting circuits and no guarantee which ones will be used and when, it's time to think a bit harder. Next thought is a thermistor which triggers a timer, located on the 22mm hot pipe as it enters the ensuite. Idea being that it turns on as DHW is drawn to either the bath or shower, not the basin, and stays on for say 30 mins after the pipe cools down. That's my favoured option right now, so question is, can I get a mains switching thermistor, and what would I need for a timer ? eg thermistor via a ( solid state for reliability ) relay triggering the timer / other? Thoughts plaese .

Thanks. We hear of so many who get it wrong, let's not be shy of stating who got it right .

Feel free to give them a mention J, and their location. .

@Dee Both 'can' use the frame, which is the best option as it holds all the gubbings where they need to be. You benefit from the frame so it holds the flush and ? pipe in place so you can push the pan back without anything moving away from you. . You can go for a stand alone cistern with the removable gubbings feature but I'd have to ping some links here later as I only fit the frames ( for a good nights sleep ).

I've never, ever, even seen a metal shower tray TBH . A good quality stone resin tray shouldn't have such issues, but I have seen this exact same problem with a cheap BM one . It's not fit for purpose so I'd chase the supplier for recourse.

Happy days.

Yes +1. Spirit level ( aka "bubble" ) on both x and y to see what shape they've been installed, first.