Nickfromwales

What situation is it to be used in? Penetration through a grp roof?

Deffo. Tbh, you just undersize by 1.5-2mm and the self cutting tip is the right size for the final pilot . Used these to put steel tubular stairs and handcrails in an ind unit. Worked a dream. It won't hurt to put a bead of summat but if you can fix both sides it'll go nowhere. Do you need SE spec for the thickness of the fixings for BC approval?

Pilot drill and then fire these straight in, being careful not to catch the web.

Ok, you get a one week leisure pass. .

The bathrooms look clean and sharp Still unsure about burying the cistern behind the tiles but I think we discussed this and you had a preference for the small flush buttons. Will you remove the chair after you've finished standing on it to paint the ceiling ?

Can the wacker plate be adapted for grouting ?

That means you get out of doing the dishes, but not mowing the lawn.

Thread tidied ?

The problem isn't with the unit ( until the motor dies of old age or the capacitor or float switch follow suit ) it's people putting things down the loo that they shouldn't. If you just drop the bomb + loo roll it'll never miss a beat, until aforementioned normal wear n tear intervenes.

Potty it is then..........or maybe, just MAYBE you can talk the wife into a luxury, self contained Maisón d'eriere ? Options for Bluetooth and wifi ( if she takes her phone with her ).

Or no WC down there . Is it to create a self contained flat / bedsit?

Once you've decided to fit one, the discharge pipework is no worry at all. These will pump high and far, even through 22mm copper or 21.5mm overflow, naturally I'd recommend soldered copper for the incline, then convert to at least 1 1/4" pvc solvent weld or 50mm if possible ( to provide an air beak to mitigate siphon issues ) for the run that falls again ( with rodding caps at every practical / accessible change of direction ). The best method is to rise continuously in 22mm copper and terminate into the soil stack so you have no discharge sized pipework with a fall. Is that possible?

Ok, so sanding a damaged floor will likely be a professional machine job, but still do-able without needing to remove and replace vs veneered engineered boards.

Worth knowing that it doesn't beak down when sanded Just wondered, with the mention of it being stranded.

For all your 'to-hand' bits n bobs. They're usually magnetic so nowt shakes / falls off, but I'd be wary of anything up top tbh as you don't want a tool shower when precision drilling .

We've discussed the oak being a product that can be refinished, ( sanded and recoated as required ), but no mention yet of this being possible with the bamboo. One assumes that if going with a bonded solid material, such as bamboo, then if the worst happened you could hire a sander, sand it all back flat, and recoat it? You couldn't say the same of a thin veneered product as by the time you sanded enough to remove the 'cup' you'll be best way through the veneer?

Every day without my shed is another day where I can't sit alone with my accumulated largely worthless but important-to-me crap that I'm storing in a rental unit. Only real valuable stuff are our RC cars, and I'm wondering if a year or more for the fully balance charged Lipos may have been too long. Hopefully they've survived.........but knowing my luck . I need my shed at home. ?

Yup, wood just isn't ever that straight. Plus you should have kept it vertical, and rotated it lengthways by 180o so as to correct the squiff back to the third checkpoint. If marking a long wall with a spirit level you always do the same. Never keep using the SL in the same direction as any inaccuracy in the SL will just keep you heading up / down hill so you keep flipping the level round for each length you mark, therefore correcting it as you go.

That's usually a part blocked NRV ( rubber crap flap ) and the residual fluid that's been pumped away ( still sat in the outlet pipe as the unit doesn't pump that pipe clear, it only pumps the unit out into it ) is able to slowly seep back into the machine, back-filling the unit and raising the level switch causing the unit to bail out again. Another inevitable annoyance associated with one of these things. How far below ground ? Basement ?

Sorry, forgot to discuss this. They come with an integral heavy rubber 'crap-flap' on the outlet as standard. No other type of NRV would do as the sweetcorn launcher would block them. Consideration must be given to the ongoing discharge pipework as certain runs require an air admittance valve to be fitted mid point to alleviate any possible siphoning issues. Upsizing the pipework will negate this, which is what I did each time. I didn't like the idea of an AAV getting contaminated, then jamming in the part open position and then the turd tornado crop-spraying out of it ( as they pump at around 10bar iirc ). Edit : 10psi . My bad. Linky

I stopped using them about 15 years ago. They are, without a second or a shadow of doubt, THE biggest pieces of shit ever to disgrace a tile job. The number of ( repair ) jobs they create is great for trades, not so great for the poor fool that fitted them. It's almost as if they were designed to leak and cause slow, severe, penetrating leaks which only become apparent after its too late to do anything other than rip the tiles and PB off and start again. Utter and total crap. ? Ive got a master and an ensuite in the same house to fully redo ( when I can ) just because of these trims, ( fitted in the last <10 years ), and the water just flows under them, along behind, and then pours out the end behind the tiles. ?

Jeremy, I've just reread this and I think I should clarify I was referring to the "god-awful" trim that Mermaid supplied for the bottom seal , and the comment certainly was not aimed at your install. One problem from posting hastily whilst grafting, it doesn't always get read before sending. . Oops !

Here we go.... The rear access was big enough to get the unit out without disturbing the bathroom, and a boxing around the bit of the unit sticking out into the room made it 'invisible'. Boxed and tile skirted to match what you see there. Just looking at the date makes me realise I've fitted ( under duress ) probably two or three of these in the last 20 years!

I fitted one for a friend of my wife's parents. Ensuite added to the master bedroom for accessibility ( night loo visit instead of the far away downstairs bathroom ). Installed as the budget wasn't there to tap into the sewerage, against my advice and will. I made the ensuite out of stud frame and decided the best of this evil was to mount the unit backing onto the bedroom, boxed within the wall so the Sani-shat was out of view from inside the ensuite, and out of sight from the bedroom. The idea was that if the unit failed / other, you could get at and remove the unit via the removable panel I created, thus leaving the bathroom and WC in place and unnafected. A new ( replacment ) unit could then be fitted in its place within about 30 mins start to finish. That was taking the WC, basin and an elevated shower tray. Still working but I told them "#1's only if you want an easy life, #2 goes downstairs" and I also said don't ask me to EVER fix it, it'll only ever be slung and a new one fitted. Until they agreed that I wouldn't fit it. Just waiting for the ? to hit the fan, only a matter of time tbh.

I'd rather ? in a bucket and throw it out the window. Work of the devil. Yes they're servicable, plenty of people ring and ask me to fix them...............I tell them to FO. My reply is "replace or nothing" as its always the impellers blocked or the capacitor for the motor ( which are immersed in the worst milkshake you'll ever see ). I'm shaking my head as I'm typing....yuk. The tray can't go flush as the sani-shat inlet is at the bottom of the unit and you cannot have waste runs going uphill. So elevated tray or nowt sorry. Can't you get a soil pipe in here somehow? ANYhow ?