Nickfromwales

Does it need to be so complex, and does it need to be proportional? https://www.flowfitonline.com/products/electric-floating-level-gauge-no-nc-with-1-switch-contact-l-400mm?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21794319016&gbraid=0AAAAADzzHCEY_4iDYCgXisebrdUdhSWTm&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy6vMBhDCARIsAK8rOgk-rdyVGK0LD4-SkDkY2XZI24iZ0BafQP_MQK02LpIHahQhGC0SI8YaAhekEALw_wcB Cheaper ones about, just a random grab. @Alan Ambrose, 2 of these maybe, at different heights, and a dual pump setup may be better (simpler and more reliable)?

And people are snapping these houses up as fast as they can finish them (or not quite finish them).

@Allthegearnoidea Worlds shittest drawing, free-styling off my iPhone atm, but should explain what I mean.

Where the new 110mm pipe travels horizontally to meet the new stack, just lower that so you can come out of the house, and drop down into a branch, and then the 50mm waste goes into the back of the branch. Saves the long 50mm waste run to the stack.

I thought it was the 400 micron for tiling etc directly on to? I’d want that spec anyways, if using this system, as it’ll be a much more efficient emitter / diffuser of heat. As above, get at least 3-5mm of SLC down, but who cares if it cracks? In actuality, it’ll be hidden under the flooring and the glued joints (and the fact it’s all glued down robustly) will keep it controlled. Shouldn’t affect the parquet at all imho. Have you checked that the parquet is suitable for 27° or above? You’ll need to run this at quite high temp to be effective at heating the room. The SLC would help a lot here, so don’t omit it!! If you can do 5-8mm or 10mm then do so. Consider mesh matting as a binder, if you’re really panicking about cracking / degradation of the SLC.

My son drives down to Illfracombe and popped a front tire in what he described as a canyon sized pothole, got a £150 breakdown fee to get him off a bloody dangerous stretch of road, and then popped the replacement brand new tire down there on the way back home. Double ffs, with added (expletive deleted).

A pic from outside would help.

Just popped a £300+ tyre in a fecking pothole. Roads in the UK are looking more and more like a WWII, heavily shelled runway. Going to claim, been told 4-26 weeks, and still may get rejected. Ffs. Zero joy, no bastard spare tyre. Pulled all the boot apart and Mercedes had fitted the factory upgraded subwoofer in there instead……sounds fabulous, not great if you get a puncture. UK roads are getting to be like we’re living in a 3rd world country, plus we keep getting street lights turned off, permanently, and then just chopped down to ugly stubs which have been left to avoid the cost of the electrics needing isolation etc. Looks terrible.

21° (formerly The Green Build Store) stock it in very odd sized (annoyingly so) strips. I lost loads of pics due to an iCloud feck up so none of that job. Basically just powder coated aluminium panels, cut and bent to form full height cladding. Very simple. I can give you details of the guy that did these at a Leicester project for me if you like? Just PM me if so.

Another proud BH moment, just magical when another of its young finally fly's the nest. This is what happens when flapping turns into flight. Godspeed........and may you have many more successful plumbing adventures along the way. Until tiling, and the flapping starts again ffs

I think this is grounds for a new super-thread, to take us into 2030 mate. Get your pencil sharpener out and lets do this shit.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo-Hoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Great news.

As above, even though I dislike the things. Just remember to make two mats so you can replace the dirty one with a clean one, giving you time to pressure wash and dry the dirty one, and repeat.

It’s bloody good stuff tbf. I don’t recommend screwing it on, I used CT1, 100% coverage, spread thinly, and clamped with a 4x2 splint until cured so it didn’t move. Sealed 360° around it to kill off any risk of cold air convecting up behind / around it, and worked like a dream. RAL colour coated Alu profiles were then made bespoke to go on the outside, to butt up to, and match identically, the window frames etc. Looked totally factory when done. 👍

Use 20mm Compacfoam to do this. Ideally do this 4 sides around, especially if the steel is not thermally broken where it meets the foundation. If you need to plaster skim and paint the internally faces then use Marmox instead of plasterboard, and skim that (further insulting your interior from the cold steel). You can put Marmox on in many different thicknesses, but depends on what you’ve already got and what’s practicable. A lot of folk miss this detail when ordering (and then installing) fenestration, eg not reducing unit sizes to allow for the steels / columns to be clad in such materials

Have you not considered EPS ICF if it’s a bolt on to an existing stone structure? ‘Speed’ with SIPs is one plus, but none of the other systems are slow . Basing your use of a particular system for that reason alone may not be the best approach to this, just saying . As said, a SIPs style roof isn’t the quietest option, but it depends on what is important ti you I guess, and have you looked at the build up of layers that need to happen to complete the spec inside and out? Typical SIPs will usually come as thinner sections than is ideal, or the cost rises for point of sale (making them look expensive at the point of an enquiry) and then you have to add more PIR internally to get the roof, and sometimes walls, up to a good standard. I have clients building with SIPs and they’re going through this annoyance presently, having to add 40mm of PIR internally over service battens, so are not just dealing with the time / materials / cost, but are also losing GIA due to the >65mm of encroachment into the interiors. This can be added externally, but that still pushes the whole wall inwards however you cut it. Consider twin wall timber frame too, as you can also stick build this with good chippy’s and even use I beams to create the structure. Then blow the whole thing full of cellulose so the sound deadening matches that of the original structure. If you make the extension so it can be highly insulated and airtight, then it shouldn’t take much to get the rest of the original better performing, but it’s early days and I don’t know if you had planned to do any work in the existing parts or whether this is ‘just’ an extension and then you’re stopping at that? More info and the plan for the long game would help us advise you best.

.....to not explore all of my options before parting with my life savings". End quote

Less romantic, but I’m a married man so will take whatever I can get 😜

We had to go and poke the sleeping bear with a filthy stick now, didn’t we…..

Hold that thought for a moment, and get 1x of that fitting and see if the plastic centre will go into the 15mm compression connection, and THEN we can pucker up. I’m thinking Officer and a Gentleman theme playing in the background for completeness.

We’d have a very comprehensive and long thread….if it was tilted “future planning of heating now for, but must also encompass foresight for future moving or removing of walls, and its downstream impact…..”. yes, I’m a pedantic tosser. I’ve already been and grabbed my coat.

Could do suspended timber?

Good. You’ll have scrim tape from that wall > ceiling junction, so they’ll fill that up no probs and the tape will stop it breaking / cracking. 👍

As above, your builder is a tosser. Thats unforgivably shite workmanship. The cold air will be coming up that like the channel tunnel ffs!!🤦‍♂️ You’ll need to fill the gaps with some rockwool, and then pour some self leveller into that to block it up. That’s just shocking.

Yup. Just had one job where an ‘accidental’ electrician was on site and ran 1.5’s to every light fitting in the vaulted ceiling, with between zero and 25mm max service void to work to. In pairs too…. Cock. Exactly this. I’d started in earnest fitting the T&E into a JB at each light location and then taking 0.75mm flex (x1) to where each light would be, but this wasn’t copied by said cock. Some just make life so bloody difficult for either themselves or the next poor bastard, it’s just crazy. @Jothetaxi, if there’s a void just make these off together with Wago’s, put a whip of tape around them, and push that back into the void with a short piece of flex used to connect into the light fitting; unless the fittings you choose having flying leads, and then they just go into the Wagos directly.