Nickfromwales

@flanagaj Beware the plywood skirt preventing ventilation / adventitious airflow to any gas burning appliances. Please tell me you have more than one CO1 detector in there? Oh, and congrats on being on site, just be safe!

You can cut the T out and revert to compression 16mm fittings to connect this lot back up. You use 15mm comp joints but they have 16mm nuts / inserts / olives to adapt from 15>16mm. A lot of decent merchants carry these nowadays if you just ring around. Not sure how much pipe drops out of the T so hard to advise. Can you take that bit of insulation off to show what ‘we’re’ working with?

Get another vent and swap the gauge out. You have one on the red expansion vessel control group where you fill / top up.

1). Why? You don’t need this. Just close off one side of each of the 3 loops with the manual blank caps and jump on the ends of the manifold. Simple and a zero spend / rework.

🫡 If it’s to the EV then is the intention for the EV charger to have internet connectivity or for the cat cable to get you a set of CT clamps back at the head / meter? Doing this for a current client atm, but was thinking to run a second (separate, duct-grade) CAT6 to the carport to offer up a future WAP there. Cables cheap enough to put a redundant run in (<35m). So the hybrid cable @Adrian Walker linked to, is that cat cable intended for CT clamps? Only now dipping my toes in the EV charger waters…..

It’ll also be an acoustically poor solution, so with moderate to hard rain the sound will be notable to the room interior. A blown-in insulation would be the very best solution for weaving around the metal webs and those associated impossible to get to gaps, and give a huge boost to sound deadening. As @ProDave says, this is something you need to stop all wires with and get a solution to, before moving any further forwards. Just had Gordon Lewis on site pumping my current clients roof with Warmcell (blown-in cellulose) and he’s done a fantastic job getting every nook and cranny packed full of the good stuff. 👌 Abandon the rigid insulation in the roof, and preserve that for the vertical walls only. Arcitect will need to rerun the intersitial condensation analysis before pulling any trigger. Airtightness is moot, the original house will underperform most likely, just all about draft proofing at this point; plus obvs managing repeat cold bridging, and maxing out on the (properly installed) insulation.

Hi, and welcome aboard. Where is home for you then?

Is that a down pipe it eventually goes into, and is it metal?

Better plumber!

Common tbh. Water defo backs up and fills the combustion chamber. Loads of British Gas installs suffered from the connection (non return) of the condensate > soil pipes, mostly in cold snaps where the valve internals (massively reduced internal bore) freeze up. @LLL just cut or disconnect the condensate pipe under the boiler and let it drain into a bucket to get you back up and running Are you 100% sure this isn’t frozen? Or hasn’t been frozen and has now thawed out and cleared?

The VA service manual should be your friend here?

The rf controls are plug and play, with the windows addressable to open / close etc in tandem (or more) at the press of one button. Not seen 24v options but I’ve not seen every model / iteration. Velux tech should be able to give you concise information regarding which models / units can be manipulated the way you want them to be. Lots of options, so it may be advantageous to better understand what’s available so you can get the best results.

Glad you have a way forward. The 20a option is a perfectly good ‘way out’. If you’re the only person living there then it’s fine to deem yourself competent, but if you’ve family to consider then get a sparky in and enjoy the safety of knowing that the jobs been done to the current standard and tested accordingly. Better safe than brown bread. It’s not much money in the grand scheme.

Link Just get 28mm male > 1” bsp connectors to make these off in compression, if you don’t want to solder.

Big time doesn’t mean in pvc Heavy gauge conduit or galv trunking. What he said. First time I’ve heard of that cable tbh. Every day is a school day.

I was just wondering about needing a fire rating for the cavity, if attached, as on garages I’ve had to close the sides and heads of openings where there’s habitable spaces immediately off them.

The elephant in the room is that this is terminally ill though? If water / moisture are a constant then this’ll keep recurring. The only cure would be to replace the twin and earth with HO5 or 7, for a long term solution, and swap the metal boxes for PVC ones.

PVC trunking?

That one is DIY friendly and at a price even you’d like

Seems to be very few instances though? Ive been quite intensively ‘around’ a respected member of the STA and a major supplier (German gear) and I’ve not heard any of them over the years mention panels going en-flambé or DC isolators doing likewise. If these are disconnected under load then expect the worst, but that’s damage done in ignorance by dimwits or idle thumbs.

If one link wire is dead in the ring you can omit it and reduce the 32a breaker to 20a and run it as a radial.

Can you bond cement board to them and use micro cement for the look? Is the carport attached to the house?

Do not paint the floor! You’ll have to scrub it all back off to stick anything down. Buy some student carpet and make runners to go in the middle of thoroughfares and to sort bedrooms do same wall to wall. You’ll spend a few hundred on decent paint, so use that on 2nd hand carpet or very cheap carpet (foam backed). Painting is a very bad idea afaic, and will just keep wearing away if water based. If oil based or 2-pack, it’s there forever and will cost many more hundreds to get rid of. If laying Lino or other bonded flooring you may be able to stick it to a good quality paint product, but then you’ll need to clean / decontaminate / seal / prep / prime / apply the paint so it is not going to lift or degrade before relying on it long term under your eventual new floors. All this is time and cost, so just buy some cheap crap carpet or Lino is my advice.

Can you ask their advice and then the whole install will be more aligned? Basically as soon as the DC strings leave the roof and enter the building you’re into protecting them, big time. There’s no protection at this stage from high voltage DC, which is nasty stuff. Usually, before the aforementioned shakeup, we’d fit rotary isolators in attics or eaves or cupboard spaces to convert the strings to SWA, and then run that to the plant rooms / inverter elsewhere. On the one I mention I was told that would no longer suffice, so I had to run 25mm galv conduit from the ceiling void to the plant room and put the isolator on the end of the conduit; from there I imagine high impact pvc conduit or trunking would suffice (not sure what was actually done on this particular clients project as I left after 1st fix).

The competent person has the final say, so +1 to this. Who's the installer? Ask them, as anything else is conjecture or opinion, even regs are bendable or get garnished with a bit more belt & braces. You must live in a rough area if the 5 year olds are running around with TCT tipped Crayola's lol. He doesn't mean it, he prob got beaten up by the kids and his crayons nicked