NBW
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@Redbeard Thanks for the reply. Having UFH and no carpets upstairs i am keen to improve the thermal and sound insulation in the house. Kids running upstairs sounds like a herd of elephants. I am also keen to try and improve the thermal insulation in the rooms as well
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As of today, the builder has finished onsite and plaster boarded the ceilings on the ground floor, i have just found out that there is no insulation installed in the joists... I have original floor joist in place in my 1960 house. Large refurb and UFH has been laid in routed chipboard for upstairs. A lot of pipework and electrical runs really make it difficult for PIR. So my plan is to use 100/150mm RWA45 from rockwool. I am also considering double plasterboarding. Question - is it worth double plasterboarding. I dont want to buy soundeadening plasterboard and replace the existing as thats a lot of wastage
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Thanks @Nickfromwales, i will PM you
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Can anyone offer any recommendations on who to get quotes from? I am based in Essex. Having just got a quote, i was a bit suprised by the lack of information. Thanks Nick
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@Nickfromwales I am considering putting some 50mm PIr board up on the walls then plasterboard on top on 2 walls. I think it would improve the insulation of the room. I have attempted to knock the existing plasterboard off but its not coming off very easily. So my plan: dot and dab PIR to the wall Use insulation anchors into the PIR and the wall Drywall screw the plasterboard into the PIR board. What do you think?
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Yeah. I will get a plasterer in to plaster the whole room and ceiling. Cheers nick for replying
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Thanks for replying. Is that ceiling gap between the wall ok to be plastered? Or should it be smaller. That's why I was considering dot and dabbing plasterboard to the whole wall Thanks
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Hi all One for the plasterer's. This wall was left by the builders and they mentioned the plasterer will plaster over this with bond to build out before plastering. 2 things. There is a crack in the wall and there is a gap in the ceiling. Am I best to plasterboard the wall before plastering?
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Hi all. Having purchased Ecosash windows, we are now looking to buy french doors for our build. We have gone to 4 suppliers Timber Windows Rom Valley ASG We origionally wanted Timber but the costs are so high for them. Here are the figures. What are peoples opinions on TimberLook? Trying to see some french doors from Timberlook is very very difficult... Timber Windows Redwood Front door £4,094.80 £818.96 £4,913.76 French door set 1 £6,316.30 £1,263.26 £7,579.56 French door set 2 £6,316.30 £1,263.26 £7,579.56 French door set 3 £6,363.14 £1,272.63 £7,635.77 French door set 4 £6,259.73 £1,251.95 £7,511.68 Single door with sidelights £4,841.21 £968.24 £5,809.45 Back door £3,552.57 £710.51 £4,263.08 Timber Assured (Deposit and Warranty protection policy) £83.93 £16.79 £100.72 £37,827.98 £7,565.60 £45,393.58 Discount 15% £5,674.20 £1,134.84 £6,809.04 Total £32,153.78 £6,430.76 £38,584.54 Timber Windows Evolution Front door 3,559.49 711.9 4,271.39 French door set 1 5,128.65 1,025.73 6,154.38 French door set 2 5,128.65 1,025.73 6,154.38 French door set 3 5,128.65 1,035.76 6,164.41 French door set 4 5,012.45 1,002.49 6,014.94 Single door with sidelights 3,573.83 714.77 4,288.60 Back door 3,018.37 603.67 3,622.04 Total 30,550.09 6120.05 36,670.14 Rom Valley Estimated breakdown of costs, only have a total figure R9 French door set 1 4,234.17 846.83 5,081.00 French door set 2 4,234.17 846.83 5,081.00 French door set 3 4,241.67 848.33 5,090.00 French door set 4 4,138.33 827.67 4,966.00 Single door with sidelights 2,950.83 590.17 3,541 Back door 2,492.50 498.50 2,991 Total 22,291.67 4,458.33 26,750.00 AGS Estimated breakdown of costs, only have a total figure Timberlook Front door 4,234.17 846.83 2,557 French door set 1 4,234.17 846.83 3,684.00 French door set 2 3,070.00 614.00 3,684.00 French door set 3 3,075.00 615.00 3,690.00 French door set 4 3,000.00 600.00 3,600.00 Single door with sidelights 2,139.17 427.83 2,567 Back door 1,806.67 361.33 2,168 Total 18,291.67 3,465.00 21,950.00 Without front door 19,393.00 I think we would go with a timber front door but the rest will be either R9 or Timberlook. The cost of TimberLook is almost too good to say no. They also do Chrome hinges which R9 do not do. Thanks Nick
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24v lighting circuit - good or bad idea?
NBW replied to SBMS's topic in Networks, AV, Security & Automation
Funnily enough I have spent a considerable amount of time looking at 24v v 230v lighting. Not having solar, too concerned with efficiency, I am leaning to @MortarThePoint approach I am worried that 24v LED lighting won't be as bright or easier to source as typical 230 lighting. -
Thanks both I think as you both mentioned, the first phase is to get someone over ot test how airtight our property is. Slightly difficult at the moment as we are without doors. This might be the first action, an air tightness test
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Hi So we have performed a huge refurb. Understably budget has been hit hard and we have scaled the build back. One area we have overlooked in extractors and someone mentioned if I had looked at MVHR, and I have jumped down a huge rabbit hole. Getting ventilation downstairs now will be tricky but I will be able to do this for all the bedrooms and ensuite upstairs through the loft. Is there any value looking at MVHR for just upstairs? I might be able to gain access to the kitchen downstairs but other rooms might be difficult. Any good literature to read up on? Thanks Nick.
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YALANCT (Yet Another Loxone And Network Cabling Thread)
NBW replied to Thorfun's topic in Networks, AV, Security & Automation
Thanks all for the replies. I was planning on using multiple RGBW 24V Dimmer Tree in the Loxone cab and using each of the 4 channels to powers 4 smaller rooms with spots. Principle with this idea was for ~£80, i get to control 4 small rooms Most rooms and en-suites have RGBW compact devices in the loft to control LED light strip lighting in the ceiling or walls. Mixing RGBW tree devices and Dimmer extensions meant i could dim all the light circuits bar a couple, with the dimmer extensions controlling the larger spaces. Moving to whitewing means i dont have the restrictions on load for dimmers that the RGBW was going to give me. I also claw back cab space which is important. The Rely extension will be doing: - Towel Rail On/Of - Loft Lights - Garden Lights - Drive Lights - Heating - Pendant Lights - Velux Control - KLF-200 - Pumps Quick overview of the build components: MiniServer 2 Audio Server - 8 Masters and 3 Clients Tree Extension AO Extension - Valiant Boiler control Interface 0-10V VR34 Air Extension ModBus Air - report on Air Source Heat Pump Weather Station Tree Alarm Siren Tree Nano DI Tree's - Damper control for extractor fan management in en-suites DI Extension Backup Power Supply Having installed sash windows, i have cat cables ran to every pain to report on open/closed status. I now need to print some clips for the sensors to mount to and to fit them into the panes Looking at a Loxberry to have some additional features to pull data from https://atlas-scientific.com/ I also had priced up 16 x Valve Actuator Tree device for the manifolds but i think i am going to try and balance the temp and flow across the house. Happy for any feedback or suggestions -
It's an air source heat pump. 32kw Are there DIY kits which include batteries?
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I have a swimming pool heater and I would like to add solar panels to the pool shed Firstly is this even an option. Secondly is it worth it with the size. Thanks
