Nickfromwales

The crack is very likely to be installer error imho. They have likely screwed through the frame and into the masonry way too close to the corners; the effect of then overtightening these fixings just places huge force of the welded joints, forcing them to pop open. A way to prove (or disprove) this would be to remove the glazed unit and inspect where the fixings have been placed.

It can be set in behind the PB here as there's 60mm to play with to the back of the PB as above As for the adjustable lug, good point, but if you use a spirit level sat across some long plate screws you can get it spot on with near zero effort.

https://www.belmdoors.com Any takers here?

Not many would take the risk of omitting the secondary (industry standard) line of defence; the DPC at floor level. There are no guarantees with the subfloor DPM/DPC so it’s certainly not an abundance of caution, more a sensible, standard methodology which give you the obligatory belt, and accompanying braces Do as the Welsh fella says, and you’ll live happily (and dry) ever after. The end.

These do look very ‘cool’. All you need is a bloody good metal roofer who can fab these kind of things in their sleep.

PIR tends to need to be mechanically fixed though, whereas insulated XPS backer boards can be bonded on and won’t pull away. With PIR you’re reliant on the foil staying ‘fully stuck’ to the core, and that’s not always great after cutting it into small sections and the foils began to tear away. Any box would be better than metal here afaic, so if there’s > 60mm to play with then a fast fix box would work well too.

The kicker with leaving pipes exposed to connect to later down the line is preserving their condition. So add that to the list of reason not to go for the joints under the slab / screed option. But it is an option.

For a sanity check here, the 16mm couplers I have used a good number of times to do repairs (which have all been buried and covered over) are still A1 today. If these are made off carefully then there is no more reason for these to fail as the ones made off to the manifold; difference being the ones in the slab are never going to be subject to mechanical damage (being hit or pressed up against etc). You absolutely can do this, if it’s the only option. If you lift these out of the floor somewhere where you can then connect to them later on, you’ll have to make those upstands off so they are T’s with air bleed (vents) as this will be a trap for air. UFH pumps around very slowly, so these would airlock if you don’t have provision to routinely vent them (or you can fit automatic air vents which do this whenever air is caught). The pressure in the UFH circuits will never see more than 3bar, and the normal operating pressure is 1-1.5bar, so these don’t have the same as cold mains pressure or higher to deal with. How far is it from the break in the floor to the manifold location? You could fit flexible conduits and do more loops of a smaller (12mm) pipe which would easily pull through 25mm flexible conduit if you lay them sympathetically.

Great post, thanks for sharing here. Can you use the ASHP to cool? Doing that for a few hours in the afternoon to early evening may help knock off 1° which would be quite significant for having cooler rooms when you are looking retire each evening.

Just make sure you foam or mastic any gaps either side of the blocks so the SLC doesn’t just disappear down south.

Yup. CT1 to hold both the XPS to the steel and the box to the XPS. Don’t use bare XPS as it’s quite friable, get something like Jackoboard or tile backer board, the type with the grey gritty surface coating to accent adhesives, and that’ll hold up much better. I’d use a pvc conduit back box here, and defo not a metal one here. You can still bury that and plaster to the edges of it, so zero chance of cold getting any further from the steel than you want. The conduit boxes aren’t as fragile as the regular surface mountable back boxes, as they’re made from a different, softer plastic. Link Tbh the entire rising faces of this steel should be clad with the insulation material, not just where the socket box is.

You should have told him he'd be sharing it if he didn't pull his tampon out....... This is what happens when the foot soldiers get too much authority. Probably the only pipe he's laid for some time lol.

Don't tell your wife I said this, but you need to go grab the credit card for next years holidays, and to shoot down the big boys tool shop with it, and get fully kitted out asap lol. If there's one hole in your new oversized tool belt that is empty, you're in deep trouble It's easier to ask for forgiveness than get permission !

Guess who you're ringing tomorrow for a chat about this installation!!

If they use a 600mm bucket then there's an opportunity to comply with their requirements for 'segregation', however I am still bemused as what exactly the conflict could be between the water and the electricity supplies..... Electricity and gas, maybe more relevant, but what the heck!? This is when installing ducts becomes your friend You simply pull the services through after the foundation has been installed. I'm curious as to what advice you've taken (or been given) regarding foundation type? Have you done geotechnical surveys yet? From what you are typing, I am a bit worried that you don't have a very tight grasp on what's what here. Not a problem, because you are now a member here and we will 'learn you good'.

What make are the units?

https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-black-jack-damp-proof-membrane/p10290?store=null&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21016232523&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcX3SICQivfTjJrOYFQACEcF9&gclid=CjwKCAiA0eTJBhBaEiwA-Pa-hbx22hKHf4L0JhrXGpuqT5asuMzSUApyYANX_9hicTjUNIoDLEk_zBoCpeYQAvD_BwE I'd chip away an inch or so from the top of those blocks, then apply the liquid DPC, and then after at least 2-3 coats have been applied you can back-fill with a self-levelling compound. You can get 1L tins iirc.

Prob better to use the £100 for beer as nobody can get the application approved. The architect should be advising as part of their ‘professional advice’.

Same if the existing boards are ok. Maybe use the opportunity to put some fresh acoustic insulation in there. For my SiL’s house I put plywood inside the metal webs of the MF tracks to beef up the walls before plaster boarding. Made the wall much stronger.

Cut along the red line, to leave the chipboard under the stud wall. Then put a piece of wood (18mm plywood or similar) under that existing flooring, wide enough to be 75mm under existing and 75mm on show, and screw / glue it by fixing down through the chipboard into the plywood to form a connecting ‘tongue’ of plywood. Then your new flooring will sit on that, which you then glue and screw down into, and job done.

erm....the other £70bn is engineered and just finds it's way out of the public purse and into the hands of c****. Same thing, year in year out. That's why in the UK we're switching off streetlights to try and save money. #utterlyfeckedandnothingwecandoaboutit

I was happy to install YY, until the merchant said they just don't sell any of it! 3-core flex it is. I just observe segregation where things like long LED strips are in the mix, so the DC runs are not bunched with equally long runs of AC stuff; unless it's a small bit of LED which doesn't really seem to ever care how you run the cable.......no complaints yet, so I'll belay starting to panic before bedtime. This. Under-volt = over-current, and then the LED's are on a shorter lifespan. RIP.

That's SELV, Safety Extra Low Voltage, old boy What someone says when a random Welshman on the 'interweb points out that they've spelt SELV incorrectly 🤦‍♂️😆

That projects out almost as much as the previous detail though? Very little in it, from what my Pentium 1 brain is looking at. Ultimately you will get a solution to the remit you have provided, so if you have specifically asked for the least projection solution possible then the AT needs to sharpen his pencil; however if you just said "give me a secret gutter" and no further information re particulars of how you want this to be presented have been forthcoming, then you must be willing to accept a draft revision (for discussion) at the outset so you can see what you 'don't like' and then request changes to arrive at something more inline with your expectations. This is self-build and feck all goes right first time plus...we're only human too. The issue I constantly struggle with is getting exacting information from my clients, but it's not because they don't know what they want, it's more about things getting lost in translation; folk simply don't know what the options and possibilities are, so they need to see something in front of them so they can say "close, but no cigar yet....let's discuss!". That's why I choose to work with a select few (patient and pragmatic) people, as they get the haywire between my ears. We arrive at solutions very quickly, with zero friction or fuss, and all whilst sharing the same common goal; get the client the best things we can for the least amount of time / money spent. Every damn day is a school day. I don't care who you are, how old, how experienced, if you can't be open to a bit of collaborative thinking and discussion (2 heads blah, blah, blah), and be patient whilst the answers begin to form into a thing or shape you like, then how would anyone ever get to the finish line with hair and sanity still intact? It's not a war, or a battle, it's a team effort; all you need are good team members to work with. So if the right solution doesn't jump off the 1st page of a thick book, best to not shit the bed methinks. Share your findings, google search images, likes and dislikes, and discuss! Then the juices will start flowing Then it'll be the best house it can ever be. Tres bien.