Nickfromwales

I believe I have spoken……

Don’t make me come down there and squirt you with it. Just do as the Welsh fella says, and use that one. Now “go” 👉

Illbruck FM330 mate. Use that, and scoop the other stuff out.

Once the air gap is gone, the condensation won’t form. Does the pipe have some sort of duct, or is it straight out of the ground?

Water will definitely track / sit all along the threshold, which makes it even harder to discover exactly where it’s coming in. The extra silicone outside is probably adding to the problem, as the water cannot escape. You either stop the water getting in, or leave it a way for it to get out.

You just need to put some thin insulation on the pipework. That is the solution here. Covering with a foil patch will just cause it to ‘sweat’, and that’ll harbour damp forevermore. The hole in the floor needs to be open to the room, with just some rockwool stuffed down it, so it’s about 50mm below the tiles, to prevent draughts. If you can move the stopcock then do so, as replacing to would be a painful job after you build a kitchen over it. You can ask the plumber to fix a 90° bend at the point the blue pipe exits the floor, and then convert the blue pipe to 22mm copper and then go to a new 22x15mm stopcock in the unit, with all pipe under the slab insulated and forgotten about.

The damp ingress is all the way under the threshold, from side to side, and that’s a big issue that needs to be addressed robustly. The cement that’s been put in the gap needs to be painted, then a frame / external sealant from that to the door frame to be weathertight. Also, there should be a piece of D section (referred to as makeup) over this joint.

It’s just the time of year, with lower cold water temp vs heated homes. The foil patch is the worry thing you can do. Just put grey pipe insulation (13mm wall thickness minimum) on the blue pipe and the copper pipe, and it’ll solve the majority of the problem. You’ll still get condensation on the stopcock, but that should be above the units not below, ideally.

Did the bigger patch on the right of the picture of the concrete appear with the first rain, or after the cement was filled into the vertical gap outside? That is the one that worries me the most as it’s a significant amount of water getting in and it’s quite far into the porch. Does it dry up if it’s not been raining? I’d guess this is coming in from either poor sealing at the side of the doorframe, or worse, damp being drawn up out of the ground if the damp course hasn’t been done correctly. Did you see them put a membrane down under the new concrete? My gut feeling is that this hasn’t been installed to be fundamentally weathertight, and the fitter isn’t very competent. I think the door will need to be removed and reinstalled properly, by someone who understands the job. Adding silicone etc is a complete waste of time as water is getting to the concrete under all of that cosmetic coverup. Also silicone is useless unless everything is completely bone dry, as it will not stick to damp or wet surfaces. This just sounds like you chose a poor fitter and he’s just not able to do this work properly. Good that he’s been back to try and resolve, but his efforts are clearly of no use.

Sadly, @joe90 has passed away. His profile remains as a legacy, and for its useful and inspirational content, as per his wishes.

If the rads need a higher temp to function, then you should be setting the CH flow temp for the rads, then the TMV on the UFH governs max flow temp into the floor. If the system is set up to service the UFH at 30° then the rads will be doing near nothing. They feel cool / cold as your body temp is higher, so placing your hand on it is a poor point for reference; the true reference is the actual temp of the room / space, so if the rooms at the desired temp then it’s all doing what it’s supposed to.

Are the TRV’s set to 5, or ‘max’ for the purpose of testing?

TRV’s respond to room temp, not water temp?

Why plywood? I only use T&G P5 22mm standard flooring material (chipboard). Then 6mm plywood over that, glued and screwed. Then adhesive + tiles.

I 1000% get your frustrations here, but @Roger440 makes just cold-blooded, good sense; his concerns are oh-so-well founded. The issue with government backed “improvements”, is a lot of the time unsupervised, and all to often its complete and total fecking garbage. I won’t piss on the chips of anyone who holds this with high regard, but we will be here to catch them when they inevitably fall. Feed in tariff. Renewable Heating Incentive. Green Energy Whatever the feck. All bag-o-shite schemes, every one of them, invented by fcuktards to tick boxes. The only control we ( @Roger440 ) have ( has) is to not let these fund-harvesting clowns near our single most expensive, ever, assets.

Amen. I saw one crowd doing this to a perfectly good house, and I had to alert the guy I was working indoors for. When I showed him the bag-o-shite install these clowns were undertaking he asked for a meeting with their boss. He had the same IQ as a baked potato, and just stood there shrugging his shoulders. Literally, couldn’t give a feck. They walked off and on to the next, where they no doubt encountered zero questions.

Have the installers been kind enough to peel the sticker off the bottle and apply it somewhere for your information? Usually a sticker the size of a matchbox, or so.

Trestles are perfectly fine. They’ll be perfectly fine. Go to the pub.

As above. Bonding the WC pan down is my go-to. I just cut the screws down if they have decorative caps that are needed to blank off the holes, and bond those it too, for cosmetics. The floor standing vanity will be fine with just a bit more CT1 behind each side, where it meets the wall, in conjunction with whatever other proprietary fixings are stated to use in the manufacturers installation instructions. If you want any further advice for how to do that, have a search here for mine and others previous posts, or just reply here and we’ll talk you through it.

We could have crowd funded on here and bought it lol.

Let’s relegate this to the back shelf…..

Nope. That’s a terrible idea. The lower temp means the cylinder would be calling for heat from now until the year 3000….. Just don’t do it. Makes zero sense whatsoever. Just a way to make something already wonderfully simple, complicated as feck.

Unnecessary nonsense tbh. Heat pumps give the required heat to each duty, either space heating or DHW. Why would you want to slow down the reheat of the cylinder? Also, how would the heat pump choose which temp to output and when, as it would think that in DHW mode it was only servicing a cylinder. Abort!

Add another joist, sistered to that one, using a slightly smaller profile (height) timber. Then screw into that.

I’d firstly survey yourself, and see if the peak demand, with the shower being reinstated, ACTUALLY takes you over the rating of your fuse. Is it an 80a incomer (service fuse?). I think their electrician was being over zealous tbh. MCS box-tickers most prob. Most inverter heat pumps use way less power than their stated output, so I doubt you’re about to go Hiroshima 🔥 any time soon…. What he said. All apart from “pants”. I’d have said “dogshit”. Electric showers are dogshit, and a thermostatic mixer off your UVC would be so much better, and cheaper to use. Get the electric one switched to mixer if not too disruptive, particularly if it’s your daily driver.