Nickfromwales

Erm, no? The red line is exaggerating the issue, and the only thing I would improve upon here is that the two insulation layers should meet, and not be separated by the flooring / deck boards as shown. The cold element of the steel is the edge of the upper 'toe' so is marginal at most (imho). Not if the airtightness is detailed correctly Attempting to use the PB layer as your AT layer is not a robust plan afaic, so maybe I have misunderstood you in that respect? The detail shown doesn't show an AVCL, so one can only assume you have not yet crossed that bridge with your AT and that's why it isn't detailed, yet?

Amen.

Literally.................. ....took the words right out of my mouth, Mike.

Is that your advert in the marketplace? "350 bats, free to good home"

It has to be wide, as it's so shallow though? If it was narrower and deeper then the rafter would snap in half and that's not any of an improvement is it lol? Doesn't look as if it could be any higher up with a 200mm rafter either, so a solution that loses you the least internal skeiling height most prob, preserving GIA. Airtightness trumps insulation here afaic, so for the last one we only put 20mm of XPS (Jackoboard) over a steel column to stave off cold bridging, then bonded the plasterboard to that. Was a huge uplift to the wood the (sacked) builder just fixed to the steel. Not much needed to address the steel tbh. You can't double or triple the insulated plasterboard, just fit as much depth as is practicable in rigid insulation board (less PB), then a service batten and plasterboard to that, which should do the job

I'd recommend a TCT percussion SDS drill vs diamond core, as that'll be 'soggy' and a total bastard to core drill multiple holes in. Not so bad if you can hire a diamond core drill with a hose pipe attachment to allow water to flush the hole whilst it's being drilled. May need both, if you hit a bit of rebar as the TCT SDS won't like that very much whereas the diamond will whizz through it.

Yea. Let’s ban him!!! Shocking sir, call yourself a professional? 🤣

Just done 9x Fakros and had ‘input’ as to how / when they went in. 22mm fibre sarking board over 300mm posi joist roof with blown in cellulose. Breather membrane sat directly on the sarking, then 50x25mm vertical rising counter batten, then 50x25mm roof battens laid horizontally for concrete tiles. Zero issues. Manufacturers installation guidelines trump everybody else, including the BCO! The membrane should have been flat on the sarking afaic. You need to get the roofer to expose the heads of these openings, and check how / where water is getting in. If the membrane has this droop then these are just going to become natural gutters, which collect and pool water at the top of any openings / solar PV trays. Poor suggestion from Potton here I’m sorry, but they’ll just blame your roofer.

Forget trying to fill the cracks from the face, I believe the phrase applicable here is “pissing into the wind”. If you want the wall to be ‘pretty’ then fit some horizontal battens and some vertical cladding, timber or synthetic, as then the water can dribble out of the new drip holes and down to the ground, behind the cladding. That’s perfectly fine, assuming the walls been there for x number of years and there’s no notable movement of it from its original cast position?

I spotted that in the other thread. The condensate from a boiler is corrosive, so you’re not allowed to discharge that into metal pipe work.

Thanks for the update. Install them first to see if they offend you, and if they don’t then step away from the spray can and use the savings for bathroom fittings

We thought it was blockwork because of the horizontal lines. That's the correct answer, give yourself a gold star and a Werthers Original. You just beat me to it......

Yup. The second pic looks like someone’s poor attempt to relieve the trapped water. Looks like it’s just had a drill put through it. These drainage outlets need to be 40mm waste pipe minimum and be kept clear. Defo needs addressing properly but you’ll always have this runoff. Working out how far down you can make the holes would help, as the lower the better, if you can do fewer larger holes, but smaller ones (32mm or 40mm) would need to be high and low to cope.

My apologies, I hadn’t noticed that Prob best to stop this before we get shouted at 👀

He takes the biscuit. Does that count?

Many heads always better than one, imho.

My fear, as con’y roofs are open to atmosphere.

House has prob been retrospectively blown in with beads on the external walls. Probably a cold room too, with that horizontal radiator …..

That’s just a land drain which lets the water through the wall that would otherwise look to erode the wall or the ground under it, in order to escape. These usually just dribble down and a ditch / drain carries the rainwater away. Not sure you can easily / effectively connect a pipe to this as is. It would likely need a new piece of plastic drain pipe through that dwarf wall and for you to carry that on to the drain.

Brand new cars are held together with double sided sticky tape.

Nothing worse than someone trying to save money on their TV licence, and using your drive-thru to watch the end of Catchphrase! “Say what you see!” erm….. ”the ass end of next doors car”.

These are often OEM in heat pumps etc. Always confused me as to how the automatic air got released sideways when the mechanism relies on a float / gravity.

Yup, aka crude! At best.

Yes, lol 😂.

Where’s top of screed?