Nickfromwales

Would need to be a big soffit!!

Bought two last week lol.

Have you contested it and asked them to reconsider? Did they give you a quote which had a full breakdown, before you broke down when reading it

Running one 400mm wide layer of say 50mm along the wall plate will give a nice controllable ‘straight edge’, then butt the next 100mm against that and roll that out, and there’s you pitched layers of insulation managed in the eave where it’s a git to get in to and detail. Then overlay as you wish to get to the minimum 300mm stated. After 300mm it’s assumed that the weight of any further layers will start to compress the bottom (first) layer and then that layer becomes far less effective. Wool needs to remain as decompressed as possible to function best, so those stilts from the sheds to raise the attic flooring up and over will defo be needed if you intend to store anything up there (which requires a deck and walk/crawl areas).

Is the high price due to a significant transformer upgrade having to be undertaken?

Split (same) phase I assume, as we did with that HMO? Defo an option if you need more juice, but a bit trickier to manage solar / export etc if you’ve 2 heads. Cant recall if the dual (same) phase supply can run through a single 3 phase meter though. For a new client, the DNO has just run a 1ph 95mm2 cable right to the clients back garden and then split / reduced to make that into a dual 25mm2 supply. Not metered yet so I’ll wait to see what they offer. As current flows the same, I’d have thought a 3ph meter would work, anyone?

Does it show a wiring diagram and can you give it the same phase x 2? Otherwise it seems it's looking for 415v across the two live supplies.

I’ve done a few HMO’s where 3 phase wasn’t available, so I had the DNO bring the same phase in twice; so 2x 100a supplies. Depends on how the charger uses this power, as 2 phase doesn’t make any sense at all, and as you say should be glaringly obvious in the MI’s. Can you get 3 phase and switch the zappi out for the fast charge unit? That will charge at differing rates iirc, so you don’t have to keep bashing the battery with unnecessary super-rapid charging.

Agreed, but a), we can’t assume they right do it and b), if there are any issues with a modern RCD / RCBO CU then the circuits will just trip out. I’m not saying not to do it, and I always priced in to do a full health check with the existing CU left in place in case every circuit tripped, as otherwise you’re left holding an expensive nightmare.

Yup. That’s what I was referring to. Gives the install a 10 yr (iirc) MOT

Compression stuff is pretty bombproof, so I can accept the compromise which you are proposing lol.

Horse manure. Solvent weld all day long.

I fit these, not too tall tbh. Put the SVP elsewhere? Or out horizontally at the top of a gable maybe? Done that a few times too.

If it’s not part of the network, and you T in using a compliant and recognised method, then I doubt you need to say much more; assuming you have not been told by anyone not to do so. Was nothing agreed before you bought someone’s garden off them to build in?

MCS is required to sell your excess, and you’ll have a LOT of it. You should defo consider an ASHP, as your winter generation would offset gas use. Split roof elevations mean 2 strings. You can only use so much hot water, and electricity, so where’s the maths to justify this enormous array? Asking for a friend

Only suggested, if you lost the blocks of wood. A 90° bend in the corner is 👍. @marshian makes a good point, so make the final 90° bend going into the utility a T instead, and put a cleaning eye in the redundant open end so you can ‘self clean’.

Simple question is, do you need one? Unless you’re renting the place out, you don’t “need” one, and we don’t know the arrangement you had with this person (cash / invoice), but you can get a simple inspection done and get a cert that way if you really need / want to.

If this is an installed system, the installers would come and survey this and underwrite the whole thing. They will have done this a thousand times, so unless you’re DIY’ing it the information here would maybe be of not much use to you, sorry. Are you paying contractors to supply and fit, for eg is it coming via a grant / funding?

You could also go out through the wall and mount an external flue using stand alone / secretly mounted brackets.

You just sell it on later with the WBS installed as a bonus. Just do a good job, with a good appliance, and then you’re all good. You’ll have a relatively long time to advertise / sell it at the end of the build, so I’d make life comfortable for the build and stop panicking about minor issues. Worst case, the roof can be put back ‘as was’ in a couple of hours with some plate, rivets, and CT1. Even if it knocks a couple ok £k off the resale value, who cares?! It’ll save you 20x that in the long run anyways, so is basically sacrificial in terms of cost / loss.

A PP (positive placement) gun These allow you to get the nail into each hole in the hanger accurately, at a decent pace.

Hang under the gutter and use clear cable ties to fix to the gutter clips? You can get some tension in the strings then, to stop them flapping about.

This may be worse as you’ll likely need 1/4 cube concrete pads set in to take these point loads. Load would likely be better transferred down through the walls so it’s distributed.

They’re doing a very good job. Id be happy to relax on hols whilst these guys were working for me, so that’s great news for you on yours

Granite installers should notch cut the underside of the worktop and install stainless dog ears set into resin, plus bond the sink also. Between those two measures, the sink should be plenty well fixed. Builder should 100% have supported this as a temporary install. A carpenter would very likely have offered this up as a solution. TBH, you can just fit a piece of iron on edging afterwards, once that cracked timber has been bonded and clamped to the granite.