Nickfromwales

Can you get a hoover in there and suck the debris out? Then, get some bendy straws to fit on the foam gun and pack it out with FM 330 foam. That’ll be the end of this saga then , to the top of the tiles. Then pipe insulation and job done.

If you get some compo out of them, I’ve seen a nice private plate for your car.

Keep us posted please!

Having the equipment makes a job like that a doddle. So many struggle to save plant hire costs, but that’s dangerous and hugely inefficient. Nice to see a good site setup and the progress speaks for itself.

“Stinks” of a manufacturing defect. Unit needs a forensic strip down and rebuild, and to actually see / examine every joint and junction. Probably something very simple, there’s not much to go wrong with these things.

Ah! Then no, you’ll be fine. Most appliance manufacturers will give a max height for the discharge hose to be at, when going into an upstand, so that is now deleted from the situation and a (combination) trap will be fine. I’d still move the pipework to the other side of the wall if possible.

Assuming this is a continuous piece of MDPE to the stopcock, the only place a dribble could be occurring and going unnoticed is from that ungodly stopcock which is brass compression onto the MDPE. I hate them, as the least amount of excuse you provide will result in this failing. I always go MDPE > copper via an MDPE fitting which is specific for this job. @gambo are you 1000% sure this MDPE > brass connection is 100% leak-free?

Ok! After the first bend, you are then on quite a steep incline. This is putting your washing machine (appliance) upstand quite high off the floor. Yes, you can guess what I’m going to say next….. The amount of incline in the room itself is good, just you’ve used up too much ‘fall’ in the service space. You could abandon the connection to the stack and ‘boss’ in lower down, but that’s prob worst case scenario. This needs a tweak first, to lower the pipe as it enters the utility space, to lower that upstand. Good effort though, and good on you for getting stuck in / hands dirty I’d lose the blocks that you’ve used as stand offs, and simply use 2x 45° bends to see the pipe out just before it goes through the wall. Is there any reason you’ve not run the pipe on the plain OSB wall and then just punched through exactly where the pipe meets a trap? Would save cutting the back of units / navigating around that horizontal waste pipe run in the utility.

OK!! Give us the depth you have to play with, from slab up to FFL please, as there's a lot of info but it's all a bit tricky to correlate. And why electric UFH? It's the most expensive thing you can run, and is this for supplemental heating or full-on space heating?

Get your prelims in check, and listed / costed out so you can see ‘hidden costs’ as a lot of folk skip over this, and become unprepared for paying for things when they pop up, that’s before laying a single brick btw. Who’s been mentoring you to date? Architect?

2 sides clad in insulation and windows up against those, small alu capping internally to match window frames, then just alu cappings again externally. I had the external one made up in 2 pieces, to ease fitment (and manufacturing). No pics sorry, I had departed soon after sorting designs as these took some time to manufacture, powder coat, and for the installers to then book the clients in. Once I’ve broken the back of a job for people I’m usually then off to the next one, only then staying in contact for remote assistance, such as this type of ‘last minute’ detailing and problem solving; a lot of this goes on as the design and pre-construction phases are often just skipped though sadly.

Life is full of compromises, just best to be in direct control of them when they arise. Otherwise they become ‘cosmetically acceptable’ failures…..

Send me a PM please!!!!!

Exactly what I faced on one job, and opted to not insulate externally; the design I gave the client for that featured a very generous bead of mastic to affix the aluminium to the steels, with continuous beads at foot and head to stop convection through any otherwise resultant free air space. To date, no complaints, and a far lower profile solution from the exterior aspect 👍. Compromises can be made successfully if managed meticulously, that’s the ‘gotcha’.

On a few previous clients projects, similar circumstances, I clad the steels with 20mm Compacfoam, and the client ordered the fenestration with the deductions in width made accordingly. Then I employed a designer / installer for alu cappings to be made, and RAL sprayed to colour match, and results were perfectly satisfactory. I actually preferred that to the option of dragging the steel inboard, so maybe a review would change your mind; at least put it at ease a bit anyways.

Check my PM to you plz mate Sorry for the hijack. @BotusBuild, I’ve never done a CU swap with testing first, and then giving a certificate (via one of my bonafide sub contractors), so you should have had one. If you didn’t ask then they probably did it as a ‘cash’ job and wanted to be in and out.

They could have concrete screwed some treated battens into the brickwork, and then screwed into that. There’s always a way to do a job to the best possible outcome. Or. Cut corners, grab the money, and shoot off.

Whatever’s salvageable you can keep. Just check it’s in good condition and retain it.

Here we have put OSB in as a packer, then 8x2 over that to get the timber past the edge of the steel.

Yup. Sounds like it’ll be a barrel scrape solution for that money, afaic.

Brink / Ubbink is all I’ve used in 99% of my clients builds. Zero issues. I’ve had great prices / service / design support etc from CVC Ltd (Oxon) and they have some good prices for kit on their box-shifting platform (Air-haus.co.uk). £8.5k supplied and installed for that size house is cheaper than I’d have done it for, by a LONG way. Are they quoting a single 600 unit? Or 2x 325’s?

Hi. You bolt timbers into the web, so they finish just proud of the steel. You then fix the joists to that timber, using a gas nailer firstly, to pin them, then proper joist hangers to complete. Your SE is making work for you imho, and prob still lives at home.

If 12/24v then it’s SELV (Safety Extra Low Voltage) so you could lay it in the bath and jump in safely. There are some very thin led strips out there atm, but the likelihood is you’d need deeper than standard worktops to gain a little more overhang, as a standard worktop doesn’t have sufficient real estate to do this imo.

FLIR camera to see if waters making its way around the FF loops most prob. Or feck off to the pub, and order a jumper on Prime whilst supping soothing cold beer.

Change it You know you must.