Nickfromwales

What’s the timelines? Pool went in before the ‘side’ extension or after? Do you know the size of the excavation that occurred for the pool, and ground conditions? Is the new extension to be 1 or 2-storey? You may be able to do a piled (screw vs percussion) foundation to completely remove the need to excavate, other than for a foul pipe if there’s need for drainage. You’ll need geotechnical survey doing by the foundation contractor or independent to see if that’s an option, plus you’ll need to know what services lay beneath, historical records for mains sewers / gas / water and so on. I’d be asking a ‘pool expert’ if you’re better off emptying the pool during these works, or half emptying it, or leaving it full etc. That will likely be a good SE, one who’s done pools before. I have a very good SE I can share details of who’s very well versed in ICF / pools / basements, PM me if you get stuck. For a covering, do a good job as you don’t want any damage to the pool whatsoever. 4x2 timbers across the width and 18mm OSB sheets to cover the pool. Make some uprights at each corner and midpoints as necessary with hazard tape strung between them to act as a guard rail, and a BFO sign saying not to walk on it and swimming pool below etc.

Yup. Just off for 30 seconds and back on should do it.

Ideal Xmas gift people!!! 1.5 pages of illiterate joy Order now to avoid disappointment. Albeit inevitable.

The inner leaf always does the heavy lifting. Outer is just for a rain screen.

Erm… wouldn’t this still be a block inner-block outer cavity wall to sit atop the cavity of brickwork? If so, the joists would be toothed into the inner leaf? The ends of the posis would be designed to have timber stock set into the ends of them, to sit on masonry robustly, and the top chord would just be ordered long, to fly over, and be cut as desired.

Crack on.

Doesn’t sound terrible tbh, but I’m just not a fan of SIP’s vs a proper timber frame blown full of cellulose. Have you read the small print twenty times? Usually you’ll be responsible for a lot of stuff and you need that costed out before you take one more step forward, so you have a high level project cost. I was going to ask about the promised AT score, but I’m assuming 1.0ach or close to?

Welcome aboard. Doing one such project down your way soon, I’ll drop you a copy of my latest hardback… ”Nicks pearls of wisdom”. A bargain at £399.99. 👌🤝

Whoa!!!!!! We could be sued for defamation if you abuse a member in such a derogatory way, and I think you should……… ………oh, hang on. Did you say @Pocster? Sorry, yes, he’s fair game. Fill your boots My apologies. 😂

Tell him to get (expletive deleted)ed.

Ok 👍. I’d look at a spares kit ordered in now, o-rings / seals mostly, and possibly a spare thermostatic cartridge depending on £££. Should be 20yrs trouble-free motoring then regardless of what happens with the company / support downstream.

Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link

You could clad the whole exterior of the untreated timber frame with a fireproof cement board. Then just cover it over with the cheapest cladding you can obtain. Have you explored this option at all? The cement board would add racking strength so may allow you to go for less materials in the TF construction, as if this is a taller than normal building then you’ll really need to rack the walls if going TF. Cement board would kill two birds with one stone there, but consider the weight when “designing” the roof.

Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit.

I’ve copied this from a stray thread, as it’s better off here @Garage build, so folk have the back story and you don’t have to explain it all over again Hi I’m considering using ……. Metal Roof Sheet (34/1000 Box Profile) Polyester Paint Coated 0.7mm Juniper Green - 2400mm They say they are “Independently tested: to current CE EN 14782 requirements” What European fire resistance compliance category A1 A2 BCDE would this type of metal sheeting comply with? I'm considering using this sheet metal material as wall and roof cladding when constructing a garage LBH 5.2x4.3x2.8m to the ridge line. Untreated rough sawn timber stud partition frame and roof timbers will all be coated in Thermoguard exterior fire retardant fluid. (Two coats) prior to application of metal cladding to meet the 30min requirement. all materials and design must comply with the latest building regs technical handbook non domestic (Scotland) Thank you steve

You’re asking a modern juke box to give random answers it finds from people giving random answers. Ffs. Leave it alone and remain as a human. Ai told me to pull you over this, so don’t shoot the messenger-robot who’s eyes just went from blue to red. 👀

Ultimate sacrifices for the tightness of air. 🫡👊👌🤝 Good lad.

Pmsl

(expletive deleted)ing hell. You’ve just use your annual quota of questions in one go. You can post again in 2026 ok.

He adds 30%……

I could always borrow some of your industrial strength “anti-itch” cream?

Strictly zero access during the treatment. One guy went in at the end wearing a respirator to open all the windows to do the purge.

What are the UFH pipes sat in? Screed or in aluminium plates, or an overlay system? Any clues? Defo down a notch on the pump, and go from there. With that long a time for it to heat up it sounds like possibly screed over concrete as that’s taking a bloody long time to get there! >6hrs would bother most, and feeling the heat within 4 should be the norm.

Yup. Ask to see the start result, and just watch how quickly the magic begins to happen.

Allen key may be the way, as some are held on by grub screws.