Nickfromwales

Big time doesn’t mean in pvc Heavy gauge conduit or galv trunking. What he said. First time I’ve heard of that cable tbh. Every day is a school day.

I was just wondering about needing a fire rating for the cavity, if attached, as on garages I’ve had to close the sides and heads of openings where there’s habitable spaces immediately off them.

The elephant in the room is that this is terminally ill though? If water / moisture are a constant then this’ll keep recurring. The only cure would be to replace the twin and earth with HO5 or 7, for a long term solution, and swap the metal boxes for PVC ones.

PVC trunking?

That one is DIY friendly and at a price even you’d like

Seems to be very few instances though? Ive been quite intensively ‘around’ a respected member of the STA and a major supplier (German gear) and I’ve not heard any of them over the years mention panels going en-flambé or DC isolators doing likewise. If these are disconnected under load then expect the worst, but that’s damage done in ignorance by dimwits or idle thumbs.

If one link wire is dead in the ring you can omit it and reduce the 32a breaker to 20a and run it as a radial.

Can you bond cement board to them and use micro cement for the look? Is the carport attached to the house?

Do not paint the floor! You’ll have to scrub it all back off to stick anything down. Buy some student carpet and make runners to go in the middle of thoroughfares and to sort bedrooms do same wall to wall. You’ll spend a few hundred on decent paint, so use that on 2nd hand carpet or very cheap carpet (foam backed). Painting is a very bad idea afaic, and will just keep wearing away if water based. If oil based or 2-pack, it’s there forever and will cost many more hundreds to get rid of. If laying Lino or other bonded flooring you may be able to stick it to a good quality paint product, but then you’ll need to clean / decontaminate / seal / prep / prime / apply the paint so it is not going to lift or degrade before relying on it long term under your eventual new floors. All this is time and cost, so just buy some cheap crap carpet or Lino is my advice.

Can you ask their advice and then the whole install will be more aligned? Basically as soon as the DC strings leave the roof and enter the building you’re into protecting them, big time. There’s no protection at this stage from high voltage DC, which is nasty stuff. Usually, before the aforementioned shakeup, we’d fit rotary isolators in attics or eaves or cupboard spaces to convert the strings to SWA, and then run that to the plant rooms / inverter elsewhere. On the one I mention I was told that would no longer suffice, so I had to run 25mm galv conduit from the ceiling void to the plant room and put the isolator on the end of the conduit; from there I imagine high impact pvc conduit or trunking would suffice (not sure what was actually done on this particular clients project as I left after 1st fix).

The competent person has the final say, so +1 to this. Who's the installer? Ask them, as anything else is conjecture or opinion, even regs are bendable or get garnished with a bit more belt & braces. You must live in a rough area if the 5 year olds are running around with TCT tipped Crayola's lol. He doesn't mean it, he prob got beaten up by the kids and his crayons nicked

Clients already bought the putty pads. 👍

Yes, saw those too. Some walls are 11mm OSB plus 12.5mm board, others just board, and some double DB board over Reducto framework. I’ll do a proper shopping list when 2nd fix comes about.

The regs have changed a fair bit here for DC runs in domestic dwellings, so on the last one (summer '24) I ran galv conduit internally to convey the 2x red and 2x black 4mm DC feeds from the roof to the rotary isolators in the GF plant space. Best to double-check with an up-to-date installer. If you need one let me know as I have a very good solar chap who works nationwide.

Long beam needs to go in first, as the two others appear to then hang off it. You wouldn't want to be hindered by the other smaller beams when getting the big ones in position, so that's what I'd do.

What does the manufacturers installation guide say about the heat pump firing into a wall only 600mm away? Usually they want much more distance there; Stiebel Eltron want 2000mm for eg.

Wanted to do this for current clients job, but acoustics were very important to him so 2nd fix will be a PITA. Tight cuts and all foamed out etc. Will get those Appleby boxes, the wings look much better on those than the ones I used last.

Use green moisture boards (unless you need to use pink fire rated?) and only skim it a few days before the door is due?

All the colours of the 🌈 basically @Russell griffiths has a little black dress.

Must be a slow one then, as my beans are over 6 months late!

You’ll have to eat those words when my £10k bag of magic beans finally arrive.

These are noisy when sun hits them and they heat & expand, and vice versa, would defo not be on any list of mine as the final connected finish to the interior of a residential dwelling I’m afraid. You can achieve any look / finish, with cosmetic layers applied after the roof structure, so I’d reconsider your chosen make up here. Almost all mention of these things is either commercial / industrial, or as the absolute rain screen in a domestic setting where the look needs to be replicated.

£6 / day, all in? ”Fortune”? Ermmmmm…… Try a week in my house and you’ll sleep well. 🤔😉

Like any snake oil salespeople, they’re both.

The parapet is easy to (re)detail, just from previous experience I noted that MBC give a rudimentary timber detail which imo could be better if it was insulated more robustly in the early design phase. I’m doing revisits of these kinds of things for a sizeable MBC client atm, and it’s surprising how the basics are great but there are still quite a few gaps to fill / simple improvements we’ve made for finite detailing. I guess some are more based on personal preference too, to be fair, but some are more architectural faux-pas which until I (and the newly appointed AT) highlighted them the client was oblivious to them. Recesses in the slab etc are easy once you have a detailed drawing from the window supplier, but even Norrsken got their structural openings wrong (typos); which I had to highlight after measuring up and spotting the error. The gotcha is not conveying this info early on to your BCO eg if you want raised external floor levels to keep the floors flush (or near as damnit) outside > in, as you need to ask for a deviation from keeping the knee jerk 150mm splash below the external rain screen to losing it to raise the grade to suit level threshold / floors. I’ve had MBC move a steel, to sympathise with M&E pathways, plus to make the corridor into the kids rooms wider, which MBC did without hesitation. Great company to work with so yes, you’ve landed on your feet there afaic. Potton are more ‘rubber stamp’ imho, and do little for a good foundation / high-performance house marriage….may be better these days but I wasn’t impressed when one of their previous clients approached me and the list of issues began to grow. Was difficult to stick my nose in and make fundamental changes and speak to particular people who would / could make this happen. Way more fluid with MBC, and so far nothing has been refused or pushed back.