Nickfromwales

It would only be cold in x 1 and hot out x 1. No other connections.

I take it youve written off considering a Sunamp due to cost?

The hot outlet needs to be horizontal at the very least, but better to have it slightly uphill so an airlock cannot occur. You could down-turn the pipe if you put a bottle vent at the high point I suppose, but for anti-convection you'll need a drop loop of at least 400-450mm. Whats wrong with your camera btw?

Almost all are front serviceable. The only thing to watch out for is some have the NRVs in the inlets facing sideways, but mostly on the cheaper valves. If there is an option to remotely mount standard 15mm inline NRVs ( double check valves ) and do away with the manufacturers ones then thats a back-up option, but yours is soft water too iirc so less of a concern.

Just the integrity of the structure would have me panicking tbh. Find out if you could stick build a new, replacment timber framed dwelling if you reclaim and use the available stone to clad the exterior. There would likely be enough there to remanufacture and wrap the current sized building, as well as clad the new extension, so all would look proper and in-keeping. Plus you'd have a comfortable and modern spin with the correct head heights ( subject to ridge height restrictions from the planners ). As mentioned, check what lays beneath before even asking another question, but face facts that you'd either have to dig down enough to get 150mm of insulation in and then a thin wooden floating floor, ( to save on depth and cost of a screed ) or apply to raise the ridge height and build over what youve got, eg if the foundations are not sufficient to excavate.

One observation here would be the non return valve on the ASHP flow. I think that would need to be a 2-port motorised valve as I think theres a strong chance of the CH flow pump sucking water through the NRV and cycling heated water through the ASHP when its not in use. Or use a 3-port W-plan diverter valve to tee the two pipes together. then its one or the other with the same result as 2 x 2-port.

WRAS approved cheapy one I went for. The 3 way one here is identical to mine but different seller as I cant find the original in my purchase history, bought about 3 years ago. TBH these are so cheap you could buy a couple for spares as most good quality manufacturers will be charging not far off that for replacements bought outside of the warranty period anyhoo. Plus these come with a 10-year warranty. Only question is will the seller be around in 10+ years time ? For the difference in price, going for the HR is a no-brainer as you're pretty much guaranteed parts availability. Id still consider buying a couple of overhaul kits and a couple of thermostatic cartridges at the outset, so at least 10-15 years of trouble free motoring that way. Most bathrooms get refurbed every 15-20 years anyhoo.

The only 'early fail' component in the dual port SA units is the electrical immersion heater which they say should be good for 10 years, and iirc is warrantied accordingly. They've actually adopted a better setup IMO and have chosen to fit 3 x 1kw immersions rather than a single 3kw one so triple redundancy. Probably to do with a more even heat transfer characteristic.

Nearly 5 days left on that auction plus 10m is borderline useless. . Chuck the length you have on here in the Marketplace section .

My £80 3-way valve has a chrome over solid brass faceplate The plastic Grohe faceplate is a good 1/4" thick, and prob made of plastic to facilitate the click in sliding push-button receivers. The shower select 2 is a stop / start shower so again may not be everyone's cup of tea, but the valve is restricted by design, so no jetwash problems like you get with the Bristan / other sequential valves.

Dave. Make sure you don't get a 2-knob valve which is "sequential". One in your OP says you turn the temperature control to start the water flowing and you continue to rotate it to get the temp higher. Crap. You get full flow rate from the get-go with no throttle control so the handset needs an inline restrictor to stop it being like a pressure washer. You can get a 2-knob valve which has temp on one knob and flow to either outlet on the other ( 12 o'clock to 9 or 12 o'clock to 3 ) but graduated flow say 25% to 100% so you don't necessarily need 3 knobs to get the same result.

A wet cutter is the first choice for the cleanest cut IMO, but when using the 4" grinder I always make sure I use a continuous rim blade so it cuts as smoothly as possible.

I had a Sigma, deliciously simple compared to Rubi, but on the day I replaced it ( after it was nicked ) I went all Rubi. The type of tile your referring to is 'riven'. A riven ceramic is a pig, as the peaks often shatter and you lose the surface pattern / colour. With a riven porcelain you won't have as bad an issue. Secret is, the correct sized cutter wheel for the application, not using excessive down-force with the cutter, and being committed to the snap action ( a good shove rather than pushing gently gets the cleanest break ).

If I can't spell it, I can't deny it

Can you PM me first, roughly 5 mins before I need to panic. Just want a head start

@ProDave Any chance you could copy these into the Glossary thread when you get a spare 5 mins please?

Don't get any on the flat mating surfaces of the pump or valves, ( where the rubber sealing washers press against ).

Just rotate the wee beastie before finally tightening the nuts up. Simples.

You can get a length of 15mm copper in by forcing it, and then straightening it back up when it's in there. Tricky at 300 centres but 400 & 600 isn't difficult. Something you have to do if running gas . 22mm is simply cut into 800-900mm lengths or whatever will go up and then joined with straight, soldered connectors. Standards for clipping cables and pipes is basic common sense from the relevant trades, so unless your doing this yourself you should really be asking your chosen trade and then double checking here that they're proposal is sound. With posijoists this really couldn't be easier, but the main consideration almost always forgotten is penetrations through the steel UB's ( for soil pipes / mvhr and other items that cannot jump over / under with reasonable ease / practicality ) so I think that should compliment this thread too as one affects the other. A couple of holes for pipes & ducts plus a couple of letterboxes in the steels for cables and small bore plumbing should be factored in at the design stage. Only made easy if you get the trades on board early to knock heads, or have someone do some basic M&E design on your behalf, or use a good PM and engage them early enough for this to be facilitated. Quite a major one imo.

Bombproof that way .

Maybe a good idea to have some 300mm tie bars drilled at angles ( dovetailed ) poking through the shuttering to tie the two slabs together after the initial pour, or you'll be left with a small floating section which won't be great.

Very surprised to see that they didn't spec or even insist on alu spreader plates to get the heat out of the loops upstairs. Should hopefully be able to cheat that by running the 1st floor flow temp a good bit hotter than downstairs. Make it a double

One of the issues you may be getting with the upstairs heating is poor performance as there are no aluminium spreader plates to effectively get the heat from the pipes into the flooring. . Deffo need the independent manifolds with their own flow temp control, so you can run the flow cooler downstairs and much hotter upstairs to compensate. Not ideal, but I think your getting used to hearing that now .

I take it you'll shutter off around the shower trap and the last 300mm of pipe to it? .

NEVER!!!!!!!!