Nickfromwales

@Barney12 Ive just fitted one of those. Nice bits of kit but remember there's no flow attenuation as the buttons give a simple 100% on / off . You can throttle down unruly shower handsets with flow restrictors, and will need doing afaic as the shower for hair wash ( in bath ) would be too lively without it. I think you can fit the restrictor into the wall outlet end of the shower / handset hose and just try different flow rates until your happy ?

The duct looks narrower than the socket so < 75mm, so shouldn't be the extractor vent imo. Ive put loads up like that, but not if recirculating. Fwiw I duct almost every one I do so they all get either hidden on top with a fused spur laying flat, or exactly as it is in that photo. If I want to not have to remove a full height chimney, to change the fuse / isolate, then I extend the supply cable and run it down to a plug or spur up high in the back of a base unit.

+1. Very strange indeed . I've never seen such a compromise, and I fail to see the thought behind not having the extra webs. They're not exactly gold plated so why ever would you ( they ) omit them ?

Chrome over brass is the way forward ?

For the difference I'd go Worcester. http://www.discountheating.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=ri 12&PN=Worcester-Greenstar-12-Ri-Conventional-Boiler.html#a5417 Just grinds my gears that it costs more than a good combi. .

Ok. It would be a 'heat only' boiler then and not a system boiler as I linked.

Baxi Duotech 28kw. Absolutely brilliant bit of kit for the money. Fit and forget. If you don't convert I think you'll be spending good money after bad TBH and the rest of the system will be on borrowed time too.

Can't really argue with this for the money TBH. And much as they used to be overpriced bags of ?, these newer ones are far better now. Most system boilers are around the £1k mark so maybe if you're not doing the full conversion ( which I think is not the best decision sorry ) it's better to spend a couple of hindered more on the better boiler. Is the existing system sealed and pressurised, with a pressure gauge and filling loop, or gravity aka open pipe with tanks in the attic ?

got to compare apples with apples ! that building is falling apart and rotten wherever you look

That looks like it needs a bit more than just repairing to me

Ok. If it's a rental and you want to 'economise' then go for an Ideal. For the money they're a great little boiler and we've done loads with zero comebacks, mostly budget private or landlords. ? Are you replacing a wall hung boiler or back boiler with firefront? Assuming the former.

You changing to a combi? It would be madness to keep the hot water via a copper cylinder. Unless it's already an uvc I'd go for a combi. Thoughts?

Buy a black one and bingo, solar heated coffee. ( or tea ). Dragons den ?

Two heads are better than one. I just thought I recalled that from a conversation with a builder when discussing a building not far from my house where the centre section of an entire 2-storey gable end dropped about 600mm due to the cowboy builders not supporting the knock through to a conservatory in accordance. Wish I took a photo tbh as the 2g upvc Windows had twisted in the openings and looked like they were holding the wall from dropping down altogether. I would not like to have been that guy when the phone rang.

It also wouldn't insulate anywhere near as well How much would it cost to get that lot bought, delivered, manhandled into place and compacted ( in layers ) then topped with screed ? Add all that up and have a chew over the numbers. .

Ok, we'll stop beating you up now For some other info, don't go filling that floor up with heavy and costly to handle hardcore. Instead buy as much damaged eps ( jablite ) as you can and make the floor up with that, stopping 150mm shy of the required finished slab level. Then go for concrete with steel reinforcing mesh and it'll be job done. You could even have Ufh at that stage but rads are so much easier and more widely expected in such a property.

I doubt you've got much choice if it's a rental tbh. If anything goes wrong and it injures a 3rd party ( Tennant ) then you need to show youve followed the rules and have used due diligence. The work is by no means rocket science, it's a relatively cheap project, and you may well need it for building insurance etc. Don't forget anything you dodge around could come back to bite you on the arse. Building control won't add a fortune to the job but will give you a paper trail if you need to value it or resell sooner than you may have wanted to. Also remember that failure to inform and apply for building control is a jailable offence iirc.

That's all well until BCO turns up and says "prove to me you put the right insulation under the floor please and that there's a DPM properly installed" Pissing the BCO off by starting work without him isn't a good way to start that relationship. Also it may well be to your advantage as you can ask as many questions as you like about how to do various tasks and they'll help you along your way, if your not fully up to speed with current regs / methods / products etc.

Hi, and welcome to Buildhub. Ok, that's a chunk of work that needs doing there. You'll definitely need a building control application, a domestic one, and a quick call to your local council will give you the fees. That'll give you the specifications you need to be working To for the floor insulation, lintels etc and also if your doing electrical work that'll need an relevant certificate too. Is this a renovation or a house for yourself to live in for a while?

Ok, thanks. A bit of thought adjustment from the Welsh Neanderthal needed then Dhw is a bit of a sticking point, so even more argument to heat a whopper of a Sunamp by trickle charging it and drawing space heating and Dhw from that. A bit of discipline with use / duration of Dhw should suffice then.

With a diesel / lpg genny reinforcing the island 5kw, it can literally just be used on demand. Does anyone on the island have kerosene ( light oil ) delivered / installed ? I'm sure gennys can run off kerosene.

Not quite Sherlock ?

Can you not just use the diesel genny? In the times of no solar gain it's a near perfect choice. Remote start and silenced it will top up batteries whilst also simultaneously providing waste heat to a thermal store for DHW. You can simply run this more or less on demand TBH, but I'd probably go for an LPG fired one so you can have one bottle bank and use that for cooking too. Space heating a passive-esque property will be child's play so I'd go for the fabric-first approach here and go all out for as near a zero energy home as is practicable. Great thread btw, I'm ever intrigued by the off grid solutions.

You cut the section, then screw that into the outlet until it hits the rubber washer. Then you wind the pair in, in unison, until the lot is sent home. Tbh is probably change the rubber washer to a fibre one as the rubber one may well scrunch up or displace under the torque required to compress the PTFE. It's not the greatest design but it's the same as many I've fitted before. In fact, I think I'd use the liquid PTFE on the brass where it screws into the outlet and a few turns of PTFE tape and ditch the washer altogether. That'll be bombproof .

That's not the type that gets wound in by a hex key until it bottoms out and then the chrome bit get fitted over it and it's o-rings and then centralised and held in place by grub screws. Stick to my ( comprehensive ) instruction and you'll be all gravy, baby. Regarding the PTFE tape just put loads on, for the depth of the outlet female thread and a bit beyond.