Nickfromwales

That looks the dogs danglies. Where did you get such a splenderific idea ??

I'd purposely not mount the pressure switches on the vessels or the vessel pipework for the reasons I mentioned with isolation for service / maintenance / failure etc. There's no reason not to mount it on the peripheral pipework downstream of the pump TBH so don't know why anyone would do that in the first place, other than pure convenience / laziness.

@JSHarris How much was the sq1 ? Just for another job that's chewing through the cheap IBO pump I imported from Poland

What pressure does the pump typically throw out?

I was thinking the same thing last night tbh. Firstly, the list sounds ok, but only you will know the actual qty and components list in fairness. The elbow issue is one of plumbing skill . The PTFE tape needs to be wound on as tight as you can without snapping it, and you need to get a good 20 turns on. Then squeeze it in your hand between the thumb and knuckle of your index finger, like a strangle hold, and twist the fitting ( clockwise only so the tape doesn't turn back off ) so it's compacted into the valleys of the thread. Then, get some liquid PTFE ( iirc @JSHarris got his from Screwfix ) and coat both the PTFE tape on the male valleys of the valve, and the bare valleys of the female thread of the elbow. Then carefully start turning one into the other. An old cloth between the spanners / grips and the valve will stop you scratching them back to the brass. Then the tricky bit. You need to work out when you have less than one full revolution left in the elbow before it bottoms out on the valve. When you approach that point you need to work out where the elbow needs to be pointing and then stop when you get there. Back turning isn't great so avoid it if possible. When made up, these ideally need 24hrs for the liquid stuff to take hold before pressurising. Stelrad are a nice looking radiator, but if there's one ( that's not the Kudox made PO? from B&Q / Screwfix ) that got higher output then go for it. Avoid Moretti for the vertical radiator as they're worse than bad. 90mm off the floor shouldn't really be a problem, as long as furniture isn't up tight against it. It's just about air resistance, eg what comes out of the top of the convector fins needs to be able to get into the bottom.

Ok. First off turn the pumps to position 2 / medium. Next, do you have temp gauges on the flow and return ? When you say 45oC where is that reading taken from, the blending valve or the temp gauge? With that setup I'd have thought you could reduce that to 40oC first and try it. With regards to balancing, I'd just put everything open fully and wait to see how it performs, adjusting later only if required.

Ok. If your having solar pv then you need to decide now. If your not, then I'd say a combi. If you are then I'd say system boiler and an UVC, as the hot tank will give you somewhere to store excess pv as hot water. Your DHW consumption is likely to better suit a combi however, and there are some very good ones out there these days ? I think I'd put UFH on both floors TBH, with room stats in each space for the ground / sleeping quarters, and a single room stat for overall control upstairs. I'd also fit two manifolds, one up and one down, so you can choose the flow temps accordingly to get the maximum comfort levels. It's a little complex compared to just radiators but not exactly OTT ( if your staying until your wings flap you out of there. ). Only downfall with UFH off a gas boiler is it won't like running uber low temp / flow, eg when the house is nigh on up to temp and idling there, so a buffer tank may be needed so you can guarantee the boiler stays in the realm of ideal condensing flow temperatures ( for maximised efficiency). Fyi, both manifolds can go upstairs in a single location and pipes can drop down, but can't go downstairs and run up realistically, unless you vent each upstairs UFH loop with air vents which need to be inspected / maintained. As @ProDave says, forget electric showers. Yuk. ?

Prepare yourself to own one of these motherofallblowlampsandthensome. This thing is an absolute BEAST, and I use it when pipes won't solder because of water being trapped inside. It chews through the yellow Mapp gas bottles when at full wallop, but the flame tip is much narrower, focussed and gets hotter than the Devils flip flops. Dont turn it against the inside of your arm though, that gets the skin off quite quickly......probably

Wow +1. You normally don't consider MVHR to have a super higher function, just recovering some otherwise lost heat, bringing some fresher air in, and maybe drying your Y-fronts a bit quicker on the clothes rack, but to hear this POV may be music to the ears of others who suffer similarly to your wife. Enjoy the house, and please pass the collective well wishes of everyone here to your better half. Best regards, Nick.

If it shows no movement in 3 weeks then I'd check the float isn't stuck. ? I can only assume your showers are mixers rather than thermostatic mixers? If the stored DHW is at or above 38-40oC then the cartridge should compensate for any further fluctuations. Seeing such big changes in your DHW tells me your cylinder stat may not be set correctly too, eg getting too hot. The water temp in your tank should ideally be at around 60-65oC, and should never be any lower than 50oC in normal service. Do you know what the cylinder stat is set at ? Remember if the boiler flow is lower than the cylinder stat the system will continuously circulate with the boiler cycling unnecessarily as the cylinder stat will never get satisfied.

Tres bien Rodney. And a good price to boot . It was doing my head it too as a few rads off at least a 5m head pump on a sealed system it should have been screaming around. Happy days ? Some music to play this out. Sweet. ?

NB you ALWAYS fit an isolation valve at each vessel, and also you need a drain off between the isolator and the vessel so for the inspection you just shut the isolation, open the drain off, check the back pressure, top up if required, and then just reopen the isolation. All told 15-20 mins work max .

If there is already a 100l vessel at the station now and your fitting another larger one nearer the house, I'd definitely keep the second vessel inline as a buffer for service / failure of either / or. If you need to do routine ( annual at least but bi-annual is recommended) inspection and or maintenance, then having a second vessel will allow you to isolate the other and retain a regulated flow. Plus it'll give extra volume too. If it's there, and free, why not retain it?

Yup. 'Twas a narrow room so the idea was a completely fold away shower so they could cut a straight line to the peepee machine and have a bit of room when using the sink. I desgned it from scratch and it worked out great, other than when Novellini gave me the wrong sized shower glasses and tried to blame me. I nearly knocked the Rep out when he came to site 3 weeks later with an unusable shower. What a condescending prick he was. I actually said that I'd like him to get out of the bathroom so when he hit something on the way down it wouldn't be expensive. Tossa. ?

Just run off an RCD plug / socket and you'll be fine. I've used 230v for the last two and a half decades and I'm still here. 110v may be necessary if your life / health insurance would refuse to pay out if you decided to commit electro-hiri-kiri ?

If your at it 'hard n fast' then the biggest killer will be one charger. Id say 4 batteries. 2 chargers. Two in tools two charging / ready to switch out. Or, 3 batteries two out one on charge. Typical scenario is....one battery lives in the impact driver, one goes in the drill driver, occasionally used, swapping that one between other tools as you need them, and one ready to rock. For work / floodlights run an extension lead. Use LED so it's low load so you don't need a beast of a lead and you can plug your charger into it too.

I would not have a shelf in direct waterfall / constantly splashed over TBH. That's a water trap and you'd struggle to stop water getting under the tile. If I was doing that for an insistent customer ( ) I'd put a solid sill ( cill ? how DO you spell that ? ) like granite / Corian sobit can be sealed back to the vertical faces and it could be angled slightly 'downhill' so the water didn't sit there. "Recipe" "Disaster" ?

Just remember NOT to put ballifix valves before this. Instead you need to use 1/4 full bore valves so as not to restrict the flow .

Like it. You should put that in as your profile signature. ? Guilty

Don't start him off now please. ?

Exactly what YouTube was created for ??

You've lost me ?

Yea, when I saw your kitchen ( and commented ) I clicked my stopwatch. Sounds like your branch should speak to the clowns this side of the bridge as it was 3 kitchens on the same wagon, in the wrong order. The other two kitchens must have been firewood after the delivery monkeys finished with the unloading and re- loading. These were 2 of the 5 damaged units. I think this was done when they unloaded and just smacked them down on the pavement. I would say around 60% of it came damaged.

Breakdown please? ?