Nickfromwales

Does the Allen key allow the chrome and the brass to be pulled apart ? Is the inside of the chrome outlet hexagon shaped to take an Allen key ?

Don't beat yourself up.........let me do it

@Onoff I've never had one with a backnut. Tbh, it's rare to get rear access so you'd never get to fit one anyway. The one you've got fits as follows. : 1) you measure the diameter of the fitting, the chrome bit after the brass thread. 2) you get that size tile hole saw and make a hole 2-3mm bigger. 3) you fit an outside tap backplate into the wall at about 1/4" shy of finished tile face. 4) you tile and grout after blanking the outlet and pressure testing. 5) turn the fitting into the outlet until its tight. At this stage it'll likely have bottomed out without the chrome going past the tile face. 6) measure what you need for the chrome bit to finish 3-4mm into the tile. 7) cut that much off the brass thread. 8) you put 22-26 turns of ptfe onto the last 25mm of thread ( so 50 turns or so in total to get the thread covered ) 9) turn the outlet into the backplate until it's pointing down and just shy of proud of the tile face ( slightly recessed ) 10) do not go so far that you have to back turn anti clockwise 11) clear ct1 the tile hole tobthe brass thread by pumping it full. 12 ) push the cover ring down the outlet until it rests on the tile. It's NOT there as a waterproof seal, and the rubber o-ring is only a friction ring to keep it parked. The ct1 forms the watertight element. Clear as mud ?

Yup. Not toooooo shabby .

Silicone grease on rubber seals is the norm. If they're dry then the seals often roll as they're being sent home, and then just break.

That's why I asked about cutting into the 4 pipes . Connecting cold mains to the lowest tapping should result in water coming out of the other 3.

Errr....a 40 year old baxi 551 has one . 4 pipes means this has deffo got a PRIMARY heat exchanger, much as just about any heat only boiler would have. Agree it could be circulatory issues and air locking too but the DHW should circulate without kettling even with no heating connected.

Deffo. And a couple of pics.

I still don't know what appliance were dealing with . Does it have a dedicated burner for the boiler, and a separate fire 'front' ? Eg could you light the forefront without getting hot water and heating ?

Then it's circulation issues. The water isn't flowing through the boiler fast enough so it's boiling ( kettling ). Have you got / did you try a new pump yet? Can you cut the pipes on the boiler and connect the hose to them ? Sounds like a blocked or partially blocked heat exchanger. A power flush may sort it TBH.

@recoveringacademic, Ian what were the symptoms that had you 'tinkering' in the first place? And please don't say boredom Did you hear fizzing and kettling from the boiler ?

It's gravity hot so the highest tapping should vent the boiler

Sounds a good way out of it, just the white pushfit elbow isn't the prettiest thing I've ever seen. The stem is made from very robust plastic though, but I'm still not a fan of compression onto plastic. At least when done it'll all be fixed so shouldn't have any issue, but I think I'd put a few turns of PTFE over the olive to give a bit of additional give. Fyi, you can cut the stems shorter if that helps .

When you say multi fuel fire / boiler, what exactly do you have? 4 pipes out of it, 2 to the DHW cylinder rising on convection / gravity and another 2 to the heating circuit via a pump ? Some pics would help maybe. ?

I've fitted a few Impey trays, and I can't say I've ever noticed this but admittedly I've never done more than push it home and let folk use it. No complaints of stench etc have ever arisen so I can only assume this is a problem for the test, as you say. I know a lot of those type of buckets with the seal often lose the seal as it breaks with the regular removal and refitting where folk clean the trap a bit too often and aren't very careful. Have you contacted Impey yet ? It would be interesting to hear their POV.

Thanks for joining .

I'll add to this asap.

What typo ?

More to the point, they don't understand or foresee the consequences of missing such basic but vital links in the chain. A lot of them rely on Bco's that don't double check everything, a disservice to the customer who has paid for that service. On a garage conversion I was involved in, one Bco asked for holes to be drilled into the garage slab to PROVE that it was thick enough to take 5 courses of block for the internal, and then watched as the outer lip of the footing was also drilled for the same. Once happy he left after giving strict instructions on what needed to be done to open and clean the cavity out. He asked for photos of everything if it was being covered before his return. On another job, the builders used a petrol disc cutter to make two lines in the slab. They got the labourer to chase out about 2-3" of the concrete, bought some concrete in bags, mixed it and troweled it back in. When the Bco came out he said "have you dug a suitable footing ?" They replied "yes, of course we have, look the concrete is still soft from the 'pour'". Bco said happy days and left. He wasn't so happy when he came back and they were trying to hide the pair of 3600mm concrete lintels that they'd tried to put in stead of steels. That wall was load bearing and taking the hip of the roof. They beat my price by £2k, and bodged every single thing they did and cut every corner they could. They just kept redoing it until the Bco said that'll do. There are builders, and then there are men who bought building tools and a van. Huge difference. Check with at least two previous customers so you know if things went south on previous jobs.

They could be cut down so they just project 5mm or so and spray paint them to match the pots. Deflecting the majority of the water away will solve most, if not all of the problem, as long as it's 100% deffo not getting into the chimney under the pots. @readiescards, what is under the pots? Does it have a slab or other as a closure plate?

Waterproofer will hold the moisture / damp in. That's the opposite to a cure ! ?

That's why this place works so well. Instead of shouting the reason at you we just whispered it loudly

Hi @albert Ok, a bit to chew through so bear with us First thing we need to know is what pressure the pump throws out and what flow rate / for how long it can sustain it. Pumping into an open 'break' tank has many issues, mostly that of inadequate pressure that you've lost by dumping the water into said tank. Have you heard of cold mains accumulators ? These are big metal tanks ( like a giant coke can ) that have a 1/2" thick rubber ballon ( called a diaphragm ) inside. When these are filled with water, by a pump so it's forced in, a pocket of air on the other side of the diaphragm gets compressed creating stored energy in two forms. One form is the compression of that air, and the other is the starching of the diagram, like you pulling back a catapult filled with water. This setup takes the pulsed influx of pressurised water that your pump provides and holds it against its will. That usually resides at around 3bar or more if your pump can go that high and creates what is know as an "artificial cold mains" supply. It gives you a stored water system that is regulated by the pump, shunting water into the accumulator but the supply pipe doesn't suffer the 'jerks' that connecting direct to the pump would cause. You'd typically want a single 500L or a pair of 300L accumulators for a typical domestic household, but you have the benefit of the cold mains too, so you could decease the stored volume ( and cost of the accumulators ) by working out how much water you use in a 24hr period. Forget the 5000 L tank, and get rid of the shower pumps, this is the any forward, ( if you have the budget of course) . If that's an issue then just say so and we'll help you make the most of what you've got. ?

Raising the roof, eh? ? "I'm in!" ??? Hi and welcome to the best forum for your building woes to be aired, and put to bed ?

Over say 100m2 what would be the additional weight of the extra 100mm of wet concrete poured? I would think that would be factored in to the specifics for the ground preparation at the design stage, possibly requiring additional sub base preparation etc, plus the extra cost filling the volume with concrete would be significant. I think your maths may be out but I've been wrong before . So basically twice the cost, and an additional 50+ days to dry out. Plus it's lower insulation value under a heated slab. ?